Question about Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller
My mantis tiller locked up. The motor ran but the tines would not turn. I pulled off the lower gear plate and found a ten small things that look like roller bearings. I also found a small chewed up piece of metal. How hard is it to repair the worm gear and bearings.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your problem is a common one on Mantis tillers. The engine sounds like it is not breathing properly. I have fixed dozens of these problems and it is almost always the spark arrestor clogged up. The spark arrestor is found inside a small housing on the muffler (easy to fix). There are 3 screws that need to be removed to get the muffler cover off, then you will see a small housing a little over an inch long with another 3 screws...remove them and you will see a small screen that is probably clogged. Clean it and the housing with a solvent (I usually use carb cleaner) then re-install the arrestor and reassemble the muffler cover. This will fix your problem about 80% of the time.
If that is not the problem you may need to fix the carburetor (take my advice and just buy a new one...not much more expensive than the repair kit and a lot simpler.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
It sounds like the shift shaft or something in the gearbox the shift shaft engages. I know you didn't want to hear this but it is not uncommon. Most operators don't use the clutch bail when starting, stopping, and shifting as they should.
I hate to say it but this may require a trip to your service center for repair.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!
Posted on May 21, 2010
My name is Dane and I am going to assist you in solving your problem.
You should have an idle screw adjustment on the carb to adjust the idle RPM. As you pull the trigger, watch on the carburetor for a small moving plate. The idle screw should touch that plate. Be very careful, and have someone hold the tiller and start it. Back off the screw just enough until the tines stop turning. I hope I've helped. If you found this reply useful, please leave me some THUMBS UP, if you feel I've deserved them. Thank you! Dane
Posted on Dec 06, 2010
The spring goes in first followed by the ball. The ball should not get in the key way because that is filled by the slider pins that go up into the spur gear that drives the tines. Actually the slider pins drive all of the gears by engaging different gears as the gear collar is moved up and down. The detent spring and ball is the mechanism that is supposed to hold the the clutch collar in place. Mine jumps out of gear when tilling any depth except very shallow. I have reinforced the shifting forks and replaced the pins on the end of it. I believe that the pins wear and the arms spread because i have to keep pressure on the shifting rod or it will jump out of gear when tilling. Even with the reinforcing, pressure on the shifting rod will wear out the pins on the shifting arm. This will be my 3rd reassembly and I am leaning toward the detent spring being weak and allowing the shifting collar to move too easily. I may order an new spring and ball and see if that helps. I am getting pretty good at taking it apart.
Posted on Apr 16, 2011
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