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Hello. I looked carefully at the service manual for your unit--surprisingly, there is no thermal switch inline with the bake/broil elements. Usually, if the bake or broil elements pop, this blows out the thermal switch, killing power to the elements for safety. The main control board can get damaged due to the high current draw during a short-circuit. The part number for the main board is WB27T10008. The overlay(the decorative sticker with the button/names on it) numbers are as follows: almond WB27T10022, black WB27T10023, and white WB27T10021. I hope this helps you!
I have the Frigidaire PLEB30S8CCA single wall oven. About 3 months ago the baking element appeared to have gone out. We replaced it, but still didn't work. We ended up sending our control board off to a company named Corecentric. They fixed the problem and returned it to us. The oven has worked perfectly ever since. I searched extensively for a new one, but no one sold them anymore. I found Corecentric on Ebay. They were able to confirm over the phone that it was more than likely a control board issue. It cost about $130. My husband was able to do it himself by taking a couple before px and using them when reassembling it.
HI. The actual issue will be with the main logic board, which is where the main element control relays are mounted. These very important relays are damaged. The main board will need to be replaced, asap.
With that said, if you could be so kind; Please post the entire model number so that i may pull up all necessary part numbers needed, as well as, service manual links and diagrams to help with your repair.
check and make sure the bake element has continuity.If there is not continuity with your ohm meter then replace the bake element.
If it tests good the replace the main Electronic control board or the oven switch which ever the unit is equipped with
the oven controller in the main service/selection panel has either a bad solder joint on the circuits or the start realy for the oven on the same circuit board is bad and you have to replace the whole panel you cannot just buy the relay
If your broiler is working in your oven it could just be your bottom element is burnt out. Ease to check and change. Just look at the element for a bubble or it could be burnt right through. If so remove the element by unscrewing the screws at the back of the element and replace with a new element.
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.