Question about Mitsubishi WD-62725 62" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

1 Answer

Red light Replaced lamp. Female connectors were never secured inside unit. Reoved back panel and secured female connectors. Installed new lamp. Strted TV, blinking green then the red light of death...Removed interlock switch and tried again....light would come on for 10s, then off for ~30, then on for 10, then off and the indicator light shows red. Ballast? Connection?

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • vmantri Apr 10, 2008

    where can I get schematics (PDF?) of the area to replace caps?

  • vmantri Apr 12, 2008

    Update: I did nothing to the TV but just powerd it up thi monring. Now, they TV stays on and I get very ppro picture quality. Grainy lines appear and disappear on screen. Colors are not true. The bulb is staying lit and I can circulate through the TV menus.

    IS this stil a cap problem or something else?

  • vmantri Apr 19, 2008

    The Jamicon capacitors were indeed one of the issues. There were four (4) 16V 1000uF caps and two (2)Nichicon 10V 3300uF caps swollen and these were replaced. I bit the bullet and got a local Mistu tech to come out and replace the caps. The lamp now lights and I thought all was good but it appears (according to the tech) that the FMT board is having problems. This is the second issue. The tech had two other units (boards, rack, power suplpy etc...) pulled from other TVs ready to ship back to Mitsu...apparantly Mitsu does not just sent out replacement FMT boards and they are having the whole components pulled from tvs and then shipped out to MDEA. So while my lamp lights, there are still intermittent video distortions on the screen that appear every 10 seconds or so. Great picture one minute, then a fuzzy disturbance for ~1s then great picture again. I am hoping the FMT board does not go b/c that will add to my already growing repair bill...


1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 20 achievements.


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 8,617 Answers

There are two 3300Uf @ 35V capacitors that will cause that problem they are located on the PWB. they are right next to each other and the only ones with that rating on the PWB board

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Apr 10, 2008

    I would recomend going to the following link you can get the full service manual emailed to you for only 13.99 and they will provide free tech support by on line instant messaging with a support tech. That chassis is a little complicated to get aprt but the manual clears it up and with the tech support you shouldnt have any problems as its a straight forward repair. heres the link they email the manual within minutes of purchase.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Apr 12, 2008

    the mitsubishi dlp has the jamicon capacitor issues with the PWB, FMT and DM boards. the failure of the lamp to light is the two 1000uf caps on the PWB. any streaks or distortions too video is vauased by three bad 1000uf caps on the FMT, and then there will be a symptom of the green status light constantly blinking without stopping and no start up and that is caused by four bad 1000uf capacitors on the DM board. What happened was mitsubishi got a bunch of bad capacitors and they will need to be replaced. I am one of the repair techs at the link I posted above. That chassis is a bear to get apart, but the repair is a straight forward repair once you get to the boards.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Apr 21, 2008

    Thats the capacitors causing the problem on the FMT the board needs the 4 jamicon 1000uf @35V capacitors replaced


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Mitshubishi WD-62327 TV will not turn on and no sound. TV made a interference sound and shut off. Tried to turn it in the morning still nothing. Replaced lamp/bulb still nothing. Red light is on (not...

If you have a voltage meter there are some things you can check.
Unplug the unit and remove the back cover of the set. Then Plug the unit back in.
You will need to tape down the lamp safety switch in order to do these tests.
Here are all the failures that would give you a lamp error and what to check.
Cause 1. Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp led(lamp error). Suspect bad lamp and replace.
Cause 2. Unit does not power up correctly and you have red lamp led(lamp error). Check the lamp enable line at connector J14 on the back of the light engine. If pin 6 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, but your 12 and 5 volt supplies are good, then suspect a defective light engine.
Cuse 3. At power on the lamp turns on and off 3 times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp led(lamp error). You have a defective light engine.
Cause 4. Unit does not turn on correctly and you have a red lamp led(lamp error). Check for 12 volts at connector J9 pin 4 on the light engine. If voltage is missing check for an open fuse F9A09 on the power supply board. If it is open, then you need to replace the fuse and you still have a defective light engine.
Cause 5. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the light engine does go to 5 volts at turn on, but does not drop back to 0 volts after 5 seconds, but your 12 and 5 volts supplies are good then you have a defective light engine.
Cuase 6. Check for 5 volts at connector J9 pins 1 and 2 on the light engine. If low or missing check Capacitors C9A37 and C9A38. Values are 3300MF/10V. Replace capacitors if defective.

This is all I have and I wish you luck.

Mar 20, 2013 | Mitsubishi WD-62327 62" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I need the female connector that plugs into the ty-la1000 lamp unit. What is that connector called or where can I find one?

If you mean the socket where the lamp plugs in it is a part of the Ballast which powers the lamp--I doubt it is sold by itself. You likely would have to buy another ballast--how is it damaged?

Dec 17, 2012 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

I am 99% sure I have a bad fan. TV was turning off (probably overheating). We replaced the lamp (for the fourth time), but the fan continues loudly when the set is turned on. Question-- Can I replace...


• Phillips screwdriver (magnetic tip)
• 1/4" nut driver
• 1/4" wrench, small adjustable wrench, or stubby Phillips (to access screw in tight spot)
• Canned air with extender tube, a few cans
• Optical-quality microfiber cloth
• Clean, lint-free cloth
• Small brush


• Do not use any cleaner that contains ammonia. A clean lint-free cloth dampened with water was adequate for me.
• To prevent over spray, do not spray any cleaner directly on to any TV part. Spray on to rag only. (I only used a dampened rag to clean plastic and metal surfaces; no electronics or optical surfaces.)
• Use only an optical quality microfiber cloth and/or canned air to clean the light engine lens, the mirror and the inside surfaces of the front screen.
• Exercise caution using canned air. Do not tilt the can and allow any liquid propellant to escape. I had a few full cans available, and swapped to a new can often.
• Keep screws removed from each panel in a different cup. Most are different sizes.
• When disconnecting wiring connectors, note color codes for connector orientation when reconnecting. Most connectors only install in one orientation, but it's not clearly obvious.
• If contacting any circuit boards/wiring connectors, make sure to touch the metal frame first to discharge any static charge.

Disassembly Instructions:

1. Insure TV is powered off and allowed to cool at least 2 hours (overnight if possible).

2. Open and remove the Lamp Unit door on left side of TV. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the 2 screws on the lamp unit and carefully remove the lamp unit.
Clean lamp unit, using microfiber cloth on the lens and set aside for reinstallation.

3. With the lamp unit removed, you can see the light engine's color wheel through the small hole. I covered this hole with tape to prevent any dust from entering during my cleaning.

4. Remove the lower rear cover (2 screws on each end and 9 along the back panel).

5. Remove the cover from the Input/Output jacks by removing the 7 silver screws securing the cover to the Input/Output modules and sliding the cover off the power cord grommet.

6. Remove the front pedestal cover as follows:
Note the blue, red and grey wire harnesses on the right side leading to the front panel controls, AV-3 jacks and PC slots. Loosen and remove these wires from their wire ties.Grasp the pedestal cover at the ends and gently pull outward. It is installed with quick-release pins and should release easily.Gently pull the pedestal cover out, being careful to guide the wiring.Carefully disconnect the 3 wiring connectors, noting the color code for reconnection.In preparation of removing the front screen, 2 hidden screws must be removed. These 2 screws secure the bottom corners of the front screen and are installed from the back.

7. Remove the plastic housing where the lamp unit was removed:
Loosen the wire tie and remove the wires from the top of the plastic housing (these wires go to the lamp door switch).Remove 2 screws securing plastic housing. One on left side and other in base on right side (with limited space available, will need 1/4" wrench or stubby Phillips).Slowly pull housing from TV, until you can reach the connector to the lamp door switch. Note color code and disconnect wiring connector (may be easier to pull some wire through the hole and lift upward to remove connector).The front panel screw can now be seen in a recessed hole. Loosen this screw. (I did not remove the screw completely, to aid in reinstallation. Otherwise, a magnetic Phillips screwdriver may be needed.)8. From the area of the front panel wiring ties the other hidden front panel screw can be seen in a recessed hole. Loosen this screw.

9. Remove 11 of the 12 screws along the back of the TV securing the front screen, leaving one loosely installed at the top.

10. Remove 4 of the 5 screws on the front of the TV, at the bottom of the screen.

11. While holding the screen at the top and bottom, remove the two remaining screws, and gently lift and pull the front screen panel away from the TV.
Store the front screen assembly where the inside surfaces can be cleaned with the microfiber cloth and/or canned air.

12. Reassemble the TV in the reverse order, remembering to remove the tape from the hole covering color wheel, if installed earlier in step 3.

There are 3 fans to clean:
The large Lamp Fan behind the lamp and light engine assemblies is clearly visible.There are two smaller fans mounted next to each other. One fan is mounted between the cable card slot and the light engine and the other fan is mounted just to the right directly on the light engine assembly. It's somewhat inaccessible without removing the light engine, but using an extender tube on your canned air, it is easily cleaned.
The lens of the light engine will have the most dust. Clean with canned air and the microfiber cloth. Use a corner of the cloth to reach beneath the plastic tabs covering the lens.

The mirror may have a few dust particles. Gently wipe with the microfiber cloth and use canned air. Hope this helps,

Jul 04, 2011 | Toshiba 62HM95 62" HDTV

1 Answer

When I replaved samsung hls6767w lamp with hosing with new lamp with hosing I noticed burning smell.I assumed it is new lamp buring smell. After 15 mnts when smell did not go I removed power and when...

Most of the time the female end of the connector comes right of a part called the ballast. Ballast's are replacable. Is the aluminum melted? I am not sure where to purchase the ballast. The female connectors is ussally atached to frame with screws or sometimes clips

May 27, 2011 | Samsung HL-S6767W DLP TV

1 Answer

Which is the #2 fan on hls6186wx/xaa samsung tv this message appears then tv turns itself off after a few minitues

I have a Samsung model HL-S6186 since 2006 and one month out of a 5year extended it would cut of by itself. I would turn it back on and it just progressively worse. After looking at the stories on the internet with others who had similar problems, i ordered a new lamp online for $ 56.00 with the same specs. Put the lamp back and found out that there was arching where the lamp connects to the rear. I dissembled everything cleaned the contacts and repaired the one burnt connector on the new lamp with a connector from the old lamp. Turned the tv on and now i got a check fan #1 problem. ordered an exact lamp fan from for $ 15.00. When it arrived i pulled everything apart and replace the fan, still got a check # 1 fan error message. I was able to download a free service schematic that covers the HL-S5086 Tv. After studying the signal flow i pulled out the DMB board and use a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack that had an audible continuity check position. Just to clarify a few points, on the DMD board the top female connector is from the Lamp ballast/Driver, the middle female connector labeled #cn805 on the board says fan # 3, when it is actually fan # 2 for error messages, and the bottom female connector on the board is labeled fan # 2 , when it is actually fan # 1 for error messages. With the DMD board in my hand and checking the continuity between all three pins of the connector, i discovered that i didn't get continuity between the top most pin where the color code is yellow for the the negative signal that the DMD board is looking for when all is working with these tube axial fans. Sure enough i realize that in my disconnecting the # fan connector i must have cause the solder joint to come loose or it must be a manufactory flaw in the process. The other two connections soldered on the board were solid.After shaking the female connector with receiving pins i decided to resolder the whole connector. This could be very delicate. For some reason the point where the # 1 fan signal gets to the DMD processor would not solder right. Not wanting to destroy the delicate $ 269.00 board , i just soldered a piece of earphone insulated fine wire from the connector point on top to the underside of the printed circuit board just before the signal goes to it's first component.I then cut out a 1/4 inch section of the trim metal that snaps on to the DMD board to insure that it won't tear loose my work. I then Check the continuity between the connector pin where the signal comes from the fan and the underside and i got an audible continuity sound. I put everything back together and my problems are solved. I only need to re-adjust the 4 tension screws that surround the heat sink to place the picture dead center. Be careful when you pull on all connectors, ensure that you bend the tabs the tug gently. Hope this helps someone out there. Incidently i have working and troubleshooting this problem for two weeks, in the meantime due to the basketball and the Super Bowl coming i panicked and went out and purchased my first Samsung 59 inch Plasma Tv package deal with a Blue Ray DVD player an glasses. The 2006 DLP Tv is workin great and the picture is much brighter than before. I have an extra new fan now in case the old # 1 lamp fan fails.

Feb 13, 2011 | Samsung HLS6186 Television

1 Answer

Red lamp light is blinking. Replaced lamp and light is still blinking.

The lamp still does not light up after the new lamp installed? Or the lamp is working but the Red lamp still blinking? Reset the lamp timer after the lamp is installed?
Description of product:
Replacement RPTV projector lamp HITACHI 50C10

Supplied equipment: gloves, filter
Lamplife (hours): 5000
Performance (W): 100
Lamp type: UHP

Changing the lamp:
1. Turn off the projector and unplug it. Let the projector cool for at least 45 minutes. The hot lamp can burn you!
2. Find the lamp cover on the projector and remove it by loosening the screws on it.
3. Use a proper screwdriver to loosen the screws which secure the lamp inside the projector.
4. Grasp the lamp by its wire handrail or handle plate and carefully remove it.
5. At this point, always clean the projector and replace the air filter which provides air to the lamp.
6. Install the new lamp according to the aforementioned instructions in the reverse order.
7. Turn on the projector and turn the lamp operation counter to zero.

Changing a bare lamp without module:
1. Turn off the projector and unplug it. Let the projector cool for at least 45 minutes. The hot lamp can burn you!
2. Find the lamp cover on the projector and remove it by loosening the screws on it.
3. Use a proper screwdriver to loosen the screws which secure the lamp inside the projector.
4. Grasp the lamp by its wire handrail and carefully remove it.
5. At this point, always clean the projector and replace the air filter which provides air to the lamp.
6. Remove all impurities from the lamp module. If it is damaged, or if the connectors are oxidized, order a new complete module - you will thereby prevent and potential damage to the lamp or to the projector!
7. Examine and remeber in detail the method by which the lamp is fastened in the module, and the method of clamping the connectors - or mark the original connection.
8. If one of the connector parts is firmly fastened to the lamp, it will be necessary to disconnect it. Plug the cable eye to the end of the connector. The cable eye is included with the lamp.
9. Carefully remove the old lamp from the module. Wear a glove when installing the new lamp. The glove is included with the lamp. Never touch the lamp with your bare hand!
10. Insert the new lamp into the module and tighten the connectors.
11. Install the new lamp according to the aforementioned instructions in Numbers 1 to 5 in the reverse order.
12. Turn on the projector and turn the lamp operation counter to zero.

Reset the lamp counter hours of operation for the projector HITACHI 50C10
1. Turn on the projector
2. Press the "RESET" button on the remote controller for at least 3 seconds and the dialogue window will appear
3. Select the "RESET" function
4. The counter is at zero

Product websites:

Dec 03, 2010 | Hitachi 50C10 LCD TV

3 Answers

Replaced lamp. Green standby flashes 50 times, then shuts down

hello when you replace the lamps make sure you fitted the lamp securely and make sure the lamps cover fitted securely aswell


Dec 18, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-42WE655 42" Rear...

1 Answer

Red Lamp Light

The problem lies in the heat sensor that sits just inside the lamp housing area inside your set. Apparently the technician fix is to clip the faulty connector Mitsubishi used when assembling the set and replace it with a soldered connection instead. My fix is simpler and does not require solder. My TV is a 57831 model so it may differ from others but not much if so. Here is what I did.

1.) Remove the two screws holding the lamp door to the set in the back lower right corner of your set.
2.) Follow the set instruction for removing the lamp assembly. it should be unplugged for an hour prior to doing this.
3.) Once assembly is removed, grab your flashlight (if necessary) and look inside the housing. You should see a white rectangular shaped piece attached to the outer frame edge of the opening. Looking straight on, it is located in the upper left corner of the square opening and is held in place by one small phillips head screw. This screw is inserted and installed from the opposite direction and will require the short screwdriver to remove. Carefully remove it and don't drop inside the set!
4.) To make room to move around and do what you'll need to do, you will also need to partially remove the back cover of the set. Mine was limited to just the lower half and was held in place by nearly 20 screws. You don't need to remove all of them but do need to be able to open up the rear enough to access the connecter that sits on top of the upper left edge of the lamp housing. If you follow the two yellow wires from the white sensor, they track back to a small black connector with two black wires on the other side of it.
5.) At this point, you have removed the screw to the sensor. Now you will need to pull the connector wires free from the routing clip on top to free up space for the wire to move freely. Once these two black wires are pulled from the clip, pull the white sensor down from it's position to free it from it's housing and allow the yellow wires to be pulled from the left side of the housing out. If done right, the sensor is free now and can be pulled carefully by the connector at top and out the back of the set.
6.) Squeeze the clip connection where necessary and pull the clip assembly apart. The sensor is now free of the TV entirely and you can work with it separately.
7.) Grab a nail file and work the connector pins a little to roughen the contact points a bit. This is similar to cleaning the contact posts on your car battery.
8.) Push the male end of the clip firmly into the female end until it clicks and then push a little harder to be sure good contact is made.
9.) Do the reverse as done above to put it all back together again and power up!
10.) The message should now be gone.

Nov 10, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-52725 52". Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Replaced lamp and now can't get a picture

Hi Sally Jo, Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010 2. Lamp enable line at J14 pin 6 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010 4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010 5. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 934C148001. Hope this helps!

Sep 17, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-52327 52" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

WD-62327 Lamp

This is about buying replacement bulbs for the WD62327 TVs.I dont know about the other models but I purchased a PHILLIPS replacement bulb and it worked for about a week and then those dumb flashing lights and no TV. I did some research and others were saying that you had to replace some condensers. Shop would do it for 600 dollars..Well i sent the bulb back and bought an OSRAM replaement bulb. The TV is now working perfect.

Sep 17, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-62327 62" Rear Projection...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Mitsubishi WD-62725 62" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television Logo

238 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mitsubishi Televison & Video Experts

matt martin
matt martin

Level 3 Expert

1198 Answers

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

69878 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Mitsubishi Televison and Video Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides