Question about Maytag Ovens
I have a maytag dependable bake plus convection oven model CRE9830BCM. The oven automatically turns on when the oven is plugged in to the receptacle. I have to turn the breaker on and off to use it. Thanks Bill
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is likely that the convection element is burned out and needs to be replaced. If all other functions are working then this is the place to start. Teh back panel inside of the oven can be removed by removing the 4 visible philips screws on it. The element should look smooth and round, if not then it needs to be replaced. Be sure to turn power off to the oven before replacing it. Remove the screws that fasten the element to the back wall and gently pull the element away from the wall an inch or so. the wires will be exposed and can be unclipped from the element do not let them fall inside of the back of the oven or you will have to remove the oven from the wall to get at the back panel. Install the new element in the reverse procedure. If the element looks good then it will have to be tested with a multimeter to verify that it is still good before proceeding to check the selector switch for burn marks.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
Boone, by the sound of your post it sounds like the power relay board could be bad. If you had a stuck or shorted keypad, you should be getting a different code. The F2 code means an overheated condition. If it's a double oven it could mean a secondary board failure. The way to go on this would be to ohm out the temp sensor first. Should read about 1100 ohms at room temp. Another way to check it is to swap the bake and broil wires on the power relay board. They will be marked BA and BR. Fire the oven up again and if the bake element comes on then you know that the broil relay is stuck or shorted. Without being there to do the tests, I believe that the problem lies in the power relay board. The part number for the board is 71003431. Priced around 116.00. Jenn-Air usually has a 5 year warranty on these parts. Hope this points you in the right direction. Catriver..post back
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
SOURCE: oven won't light.
Localwonder gave a more comprehensive answer, but I wanted to share my recent related experience too:
Same model: MGR5750BDW
Oven was not heating up, or would sometimes and not others. Broiler worked fine. The nice thing is that the broiler igniter and the oven igniter are the same part. So I swapped them until I could get a replacement part.
Before I did anything, I turned off the gas!
To take out the broiler igniter: there's one screw right near the front of the oven that holds the burner assembly in place. Remove that, gently pull the assembly off the gas nozzle off to the left. Then where the wires from the igniter go into the back wall, remove the screw that holds the little door, remove that little door, and then gently pull the wires through until the connector comes through the opening. I also found you can go behind the stove, remove the back panel (which is easy) and see the igniter's connector.
The oven one: remove the floor of the oven by lifting it at the back, and then lift it out towards the back of the oven. Then you can see the igniter at the back of the floor of the oven. remove the two mounting screws, and then gently pull the wires until the connector comes through the insulation.
The bad igniter looked like it had burned down to bare metal in a big patch...not sure if that's the actual problem, but in any event, I installed the good igniter in the bottom (gently pushing the reconnected connector through the insulation, and feeding as much of the wires down in there as well), and the bad igniter in the broiler position (since that was the easiest one to access and replace, it'll be easy enough to replace when I get the parts). Tested, and everything worked great. And I could watch the bad igniter light up, and never light, confirming that it was the igniter itself that was the problem.
The best part, for this stove anyway, -- the ONLY tool needed was a #2 phillips screwdriver. Really. All told, maybe an hour of work, nothing intense. And free -- so if they both worked, it would have spared me ordering a part that didn't need to be replaced!
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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