Question about Kenmore 64253 Top Freezer Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fridge not cold enough
temperature sensor for the refrigerator section is on the top above the light. there3's dual evaps on this model and what may have happened is that the refrigerator froze up and the styrofoam gets broken when you try to take off. that causes the air to bypass the coil causingg it to freeze up.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
SOURCE: Temperature is not cold enough?
Model #106.8678213, The complaint was the refrigerator section was getting warm while the freezer seemed OK. The unit had been unplugged for a couple days and when I turned the unit back on, the cooling system worked fine, but I did notice a lot of water in the condensate tray which lead me to a possible defrost problem. Removed the access panel to the defrost timer and found the timer motor was not running. So basically what happened was the unit stopped defrosting and eventually built up enough frost and ice on the evaporator to block the airflow to the refrigerator section. Once the power was removed, the unit defrosted by itself and left the water in the tray. I replaced the defrost timer so now it will defrost every 8 hours like it was designed to. Now get back with me and see if the model number located on bottom kick plate it should be a number that Sears only uses. They use model numbers like this on everything and every brand. looks again like this sample ( 106.8678213 ) hope this helps, Sea Breeze
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it. There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section . For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
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Posted on Feb 27, 2010
SOURCE: fridge/freezer not getting cold
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Posted on May 27, 2010
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