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Samsung LN52A750R1F LCD TV Was having an issue with getting the TV to turn on. Sometimes it would take up to five or ten minutes before it would turn on after pressing the power button on the remote. Symptoms: The little power LED (on the front bezel) would turn on "solid" for a about 30 seconds and then start blinking. Next, after a few more seconds, you can hear a click (like a relay releasing) and the LED will go out for a few seconds. After about 15 seconds the LED turns back on and stays on for a few seconds, and then starts blinking again. For the last few days the TV would finally turn on and would stay on all day long. Now the only thing it does is constantly go through the same "loop" descried above...except it never turns on. I am guessing there is a power supply problem or some type of "heat-activated" automatic circuit breaker causing the problem. If anyone knows what is the likely component that is acting up, do you know where we can order the part? Thanks for any help you may provide.

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  • BV Alvarez Jun 11, 2010

    The solution worked as described. Was an easy and quick fix to a very annoying problem.

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Hi,
It seems power supply board problem and most probably few leaky electrolytic capacitors in output section of power supply board is cause of said symptoms. TV is not getting constant and smooth power supply due to leaky capacitors and gets reset on every attempt to power up.
If you are good with soldering parts in circuit board then replace capacitors in secondary (output) section of power supply board as mentioned in below image to fix the problem and if you feel uncomfortable working in circuit board, replace complete power supply board as it is available with Shop Jimmy.

Samsung LN52A750R1F  LCD TV

Was - 2c439d4.jpg

Posted on Jun 05, 2010

  • 5 more comments 
  • BV Alvarez Jun 05, 2010

    Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I am at ease with the replacing of components. Since I have not taken apart the TV yet, do you think I can find these locally, like at Radio Shack, or will I need to order them from Digi-Key or Mouser.


    Wither way, I will give it a try.


    Thanks,
    BV

  • Shahid Electronics
    Shahid Electronics Jun 05, 2010

    Required capacitors will be available in local part stores, Radio Shack etc.
    Thanks.


  • BV Alvarez Jun 05, 2010

    Another question I forgot to mention. Would there be any point in increasing the value and/or voltage rating, since this appears to be a weakness in the design?

  • Shahid Electronics
    Shahid Electronics Jun 05, 2010

    Yes, my bad, I also forgot to suggest about new capacitors. Capacitance value should be same like 1000MF but working volts should be increased like if old capacitor is 25Volts than replacement should be like 35Volts. Let me explain it again in following example.
    Old capacitor = 1000MF 25V
    New capacitor = 1000MF 35V to avoid future problem.
    Thanks.



  • BV Alvarez Jun 05, 2010

    OK! Sounds good. I'll take it apart later today or tomorrow, and let know if this works.


    Again, thanks,
    BV

  • Shahid Electronics
    Shahid Electronics Jun 05, 2010

    OK, no problem.
    Thanks.


  • BV Alvarez Jun 11, 2010

    Well...I finally got someone over to help get the darn thing off the wall mount. And sure enough you hit the nail on the head. The two 1000UF caps were swollen and leaking. Went to the Shack and picked up two replacements rated at 35 volts (instead of 25 volts like the originals) and they were physically larger too.
    Took longer to get it off the wall than to complete the fix. All is working like new.


    Thanks for you excellent advice,
    BV

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