Question about Heating & Cooling
Alot thing there...
* Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. Please see our Run Capacitor Page to purchase a new capacitor. Here is a link to our capacitor page: Motor Run Capacitors. If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor.
* Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor or new air conditioning system. Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that I sell below. It is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems. The Super-Boost could save you from having to purchase a new air conditioning compressor or system!
* This problem is probably the second most common problem that I see every summer. The problem is a bad compressor or fan run capacitor. The Air conditioner outdoor unit will not come on. Either the outdoor fan does not run, the compressor does not run, or both the fan and the compressor do not run. You checked and reset your breaker and the outdoor unit still does not come on. You can hear a little humming sound, sometimes a "Uggg" inside the unit when power is applied. The "Uggg" is the compressor trying to start. You might hear the low voltage contactor humming. You pull the disconnect and disconnect the power to your outdoor air conditioning unit. Please make sure your electrical power is off before working on any air conditioning equipment. You take the door or cover off your outdoor unit's control box and find a bad, swollen run capacitor. EPA stopped allowing manufacturers to produce capacitors with cancer causing PCB's. Since they stopped allowing the use of PCB's the capacitors now have a shelf life. Many times I see capacitor problems that will not allow the compressor or the fan to come on. Many times you can clearly see that the capacitor is bad because it is swollen or even blown apart with capacitor oil everywhere! Sometimes you need a special meter to test the microfarad (MFD) rating. Most of the time you can tell the capacitor is bad because it is swollen up.
* Air Conditioning outdoor condensing unit or heat pump unit will not shut off. It continues to run no matter what you do. The only way you can get the outdoor unit to shut off is turn off the breaker or pull the outdoor disconnect. Also, sometimes when the contactor fails the outdoor condensing unit will not come on at all. Dirt or insects (I see ants many times) can get in between the contact points while the contactor is off, and cause the air conditioner not to come on at all. When the contactor is stuck in the "On" position (contacts welded together), Ice will form on the indoor evaporator coil and all the way out to the outdoor unit. I have seen 1 or 2 inches of ice form on the line set and outdoor unit compressor. You will not get hardly any air flow through your duct work when this happens because the evaporator has become a complete block of ice. If this is your problem then your contactor points could be stuck, welded together causing the outdoor unit to run continuously. Many times when ants or insects get between the contactor points the outdoor unit will run (burns the insect out), but because of the uneven wear (arcing) in the contact points the contactor will soon fail. Arcing causes a tremendous heat build up and pitting of the contact points. If you are in an area of the country where insects are prominent in and around air conditions, then I would suggest you blow your contactor out with compressed air or check and make sure you do not have any insects in between the contactor points at the beginning of each cooling season.
* Compressor will not run. First, you turn off the power to the air conditioning system. Second you remove the compressor terminal cover and find that one or two of the compressor terminals have burned completely off. Yes! that is why the compressor is not running!
SOLUTION: Remove the old burnt terminal/terminals, and use the "Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair kit to replace the burnt terminals and wires.
The "Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair kit is one of my favorite items to have on the truck during the summer time. The "Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair kit has saved many of my customers from having to purchase new compressors or air conditioning systems. I see many, many burnt compressor terminals during the course of the summer. Many contractors will tell their customers, "You need a new compressor or new air conditioning unit." Most of the time this is not true! All you need to do is use the "Term-Lok" kit to repair the compressor terminals and you are back in business for a long, long time. Before I found out about the "Term Lok" compressor terminal repair kit I would try to solder the terminals on using a soldering gun. I found out the hard way that the solder would not hold but for a short period of time. Before long, I would get a call again, "My air conditioner is not working." I would go look at the compressor terminals, and there again, one of the terminals or terminal was burnt completely off again. I could not believe it! Since I have started using the "Term-Lok" repair kit, I have not had one call back for burnt compressor terminals! This new Term-Lok compressor terminal repair kit is not cheap, but it is much better than having to get a new compressor or air conditioning system. This compressor terminal kit costs $40.00. I figure the kit is so expensive because of the brass terminal connectors and the way they have permanently connected the #10 gauge wires. What I really like about this kit is that it lasts!
* Nothing works on your heating & air conditioning system. The fan will not blow in the fan "ON" position. The gas burners will not light, the outdoor air conditioning unit will not come on.
SOLUTION: Use a Volt Ohm meter, set the meter to "Volts AC," to check and see if you are getting between 24-28 volts between your "C" and "R" terminals on your low voltage board, or between "R" the red low voltage thermostat wire and ground. You might have to tape the blower door safety switch, to keep the voltage on so you can perform this test. Turn your power back OFF after completing this test using the Volt meter. Check for fuses on the furnace control board to see if the furnace has a low voltage protection fuse. If the furnace has a fuse pull the fuse out and see if it is blown. If the fuse is blown check all your low voltage wiring to make sure it is not grounding out anywhere. I have seen pinched wires that are stuck between furnace doors, animals that have chewed through wires and just weathered low voltage wiring that has lost its insulation due to the hot sun over the years. Any wires that are touching together can cause the low voltage fuse to blow. The fuse protects the expensive furnace control board from getting burned up because of a short to ground. If the fuse is blown then I would go to the local hardware and purchase 5 to 6 new fuses. If you do not find the problem that is causing the fuse to blow right away then you will need more than one fuse for testing. If your fuse is OK or your furnace does not have a fuse, and you are not getting low voltage between the "C" and "R" terminals then you might need a low voltage transformer. I have seen some of the transformers just go bad.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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