Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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I hear motor running but not getting cold on either side warm air

I don't know what happened it just stop getting cold and everything inside defrosted without warning but the motor is still running and i can fell air blowing in the freezer. what can i do?

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  • GE Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezerI hear motor running but not getting cold on eithe - 2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Posted on Jun 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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7_5_2012_4_41_18_pm.jpg


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On my Maytag side by side, stainless steel fridge, Model #: MSD2651KES. The freezer works perfectly, but the fridge will not get cold, but if you open the freezer it will start sending cold air to the...


Its defrost problem.--------- When you open the freezer door, then ice starts getting defrosted, because outside temperature is warm and due to that inside ice gets bit melted.--------- -------------- The working procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. ----------- The damper is operated by a motor.Its a complete damper assembly with motor included in it.--The damper has door.Which closes and open with the help of motor.In your case the damper door is blocked by ice, because your refrigerator is not defrosting.But when you open the freezer door, the inside ice gets bit warm and it starts melting and this lets the fridge section get cool.------------------- In this case you will have to manually defrost the ice and inspect, if the problem solves.For manual defrost procedure, click the link below:-------- Click this below for more detail:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html ----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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Could be that you have a bad freezer (defrost) thermostat and it is not "shutting off" after a defrost. Do you feel heat (DON'T touch the panel) near the bottom rear panel inside the freezer? Also, could be a Adaptive Defrost control problem.
http://refrigeratorheaterrepair.blogspot.com/

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Kenmore elite 596 73503201 no cooling in top compartment


if the freezer is getting cold the problem is due to the cold air from the freezer not getting into the refrigerator. There are several things that can cause this problem. The coils in the freezer icing up and not defrosting properly is one of the things that can cause the refrigerator not to get cold enough. Another problem is the fan that blows the cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator, not working. When the compressor is running open the refrigerator's door and push the switch that makes the light go out. You should hear the fan blowing the cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator, when this switch is pushed in. If the fan is working then you will need to find what is blocking the air flow. Iced up coils are a common problem. The icing problem can be due to a defective defrost timer or something defective in the defrost circuit. Click here for more information. Check for these problems and let me know what you have found.
REFRIGERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING
#1 Refrigerator side getting warm Freezer still cold
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost heater defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost thermostat defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Airflow blocked from freezer compartment.
Freezer control turned to "coldest" setting blocking air flow to refrigerator side. On most refrigerator/freezers, the freezer control closes a baffle when turned to coldest setting, and this blocks off the air flow to the fresh food compartment.
Fan blade broken.
Defective door switch on older models.
Light staying on with door closed.
2 Refrigerator & freezer compartments both are getting warm
Make sure refrigerator is plugged in and has power.
Condenser fan motor on bottom under refrigerator not running.
Condenser coil clogged.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost heater. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost thermostat. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Cold control defective.
Compressor overload defective.
Compressor relay defective.
Light staying on with door closed.
Compressor defective.
Low on refrigerant. #3 Freezer compartment getting hot.
Defrost timer stuck in defrost cycle.(replace)
Defrost thermostat stuck.(replace)
Ice maker stuck in harvest cycle
Light staying on with door closed. 4 Ice maker not making ice
Defective inlet water valve.
Freezer temperature not cold enough. (see problem # 2 & 3 above)
Defective thermostat in ice maker.
Defective drive motor.
Water inlet tube clogged with ice.
Defective module in newer style icemaker. 5 Refrigerator sweating around door edges
Door gaskets leaking air.
Defective case heaters.
Energy saver switch not set to reduce exterior moisture
also if require more help click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html please do rate the solution .thanks in advance.thank you for using fixya.

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My heat pump starts up in the defrost cycle.


My question may seem a little ignorant but How do you know your heat pump starts in defrost? You can't tell by "feel". You have to measure heat with a thermometer. If its because it "feels cold" your body temp is normally 98.6'f if your heat pump is in cold air outside (say below 40 or 45'f) and its putting out 85 to 98'f air inside your home is gaining even if it feels cold to you. Hearing the reversing valve kick in or out? Just because you hear this doesn't mean its in defrost, it may normally start this way.

Now if its running for a long time? That's subject to your interpretation of long time. It could be normal too especially if the air outside is getting colder and your house is needing more heat to keep it comfortable for you. The longer the heat pump runs means the more electric it is saving you.

The one thing that makes me believe this is all normal is the fact you say the elements kick on and warm up the home before it shuts off. So heres one way to kind of tell where your at:
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5 does it make a swishing noise just before it defrosts and maybe after it defrost?
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7 does the air comming out the ducts test at least 5 to 8'f warmer or more, than the room temperature?

If all of these are yes then most likely you have a normal operation going on.

If the elements are coming on that usually means the heat pump cant handle the load by itself. Remember this :
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1 heating element 5KW at 240V about 20.83 Amps and it puts out only around 17,000 Btuh. But the heating element glowes red hot and consentrates heat in a shorter time thus it "feels" warmer, which it is but its not cheaper.

If this help\ed you understand your heat pump operation and you feel like it is normal now please rate me as high as you can. If you feel you you may still ahve a problem please post it and the answers to the questions above as to narrow your scope of what to look for. Thanks for using fixya and good luck.

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Warm refrigerator


First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.

Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side?
1. The little door is not open.
check your control setting. You should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.

2. The fan in the freezer is not working.
You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.

3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side.
This is a failure of the defrost system.
You can manually defrost for a temp fix. Turn it off, take everything out of the freezer, use a hair dryer to warm the back wall. Do this for as long as you can before anything starts to thaw. Put everything back in, turn it on and this should last a couple of days.

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My frigidaire refrigerator does not get cold, but the freezer is really cold and freezes up. there is huge sheets of ice that form in the freezer and the food in the refer goes bad.


My problem also is that freezer is cold but fridge gets warm. When I turn the whole thing off for a sort time it works again.
How would I know which part needs to be replaced to repair this?
Rod
rodbutler@psci.net

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Refrig/Freezer not getting cold


If there is frost on the back wall of the freezer section a defrost is required. Defrost is normally automatic on a timed cycle. If you have frost and you know it is because of the door being open to long with the refrigerator running it could clear the coil automatically in the next 12 hours of operation. If it does not clear the frost from the coil inside the back wall you may require service to check out the timing device, heaters, and defrost thermostat.

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Does the compressor click on and off every minute or so and is hot? That would likely be tripping on a thermal overload due to not being able to start (bad motor starter on the compressor). If the compressor is running normally and warm then you may have a froze up coil. Take the lower rear back sheetmetal cover off the inside freezer section and look at the coil. If it's frozen block of ice basically the defrost cycle is not working and the ice has blocked the air flow through the unit. (could be bad defrost heater, defrost timer or defrost t-stat). If the compressor is running normally and warm and you see no ice or even frost on the coils then you have a sealed system problem that usually means most if not all of the refrigerant has leaked out of the system (or a blockage/restriction in the system). This would be the worst case since it means a whole bunch of money to repair. Let us know what you find out and we can have a better idea on what to recommend.

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