Question about Miele Novotronic W1918A Front Load Washer

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I have a Miele W1918 washer which has worked perfectly for a decade. Now there is not enough water to fill the tub during the first 'rinse' phase of normal cycles or the 'separate rinse' cycle. The machine seems to fill normally for the 'wash' phase but after it has been filling for a few minutes during the 'rinse' phase, the water pressure light starts flashing and, after some time, the machine shuts down (without completing the first rinse) with the timer resetting to zero. At this point the drum is filled to a depth of about 1" to 1.5". I know there is sufficient pressure to the cold water supply valves (there are three separate valve coming from the cold water supply) because the other valves which individually supply the 'pre-wash' and the 'second rinse' (fills through the starch dispenser in the 'separate rinse' cycle) fill the tub very quickly -- and with much more pressure than the first rinse either in a 'normal' cycle or in the 'separate rinse' cycle. For the first rinse, the water trickles slowly through about half the holes that drain into the tray that holds the detergent for a regular wash. I have also checked and there is no water being supplied from the warm water supply valve during the first rinse of either any 'normal' cycle (including a 90 degree cotton cycle) or the 'separate rinse' cycle. Again, the hot water supply valve seems to work because it provides a strong flow of water while filling the drum at the start of the wash phase of a normal cycle. I think this could either be a faulty cold water supply valve or a problem with the eletronic control which is not requesting water from the warm water supply valve at the start of the rinse cycle. I would appreciate any advice.

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I have exactly the same problem. I am currently getting around the issue by letting the machine do the washing then at the end of that cycle do a manual rinse cycle.

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

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Check supply water inlet filter at hose. If not there and considering this to be 120v ac solenoids remove wiring to each solenoid and run 120v jumper individually and check water flow if you get good stream from each know you have a control voltage problem.

Posted on Sep 25, 2017

  • roeb Sep 25, 2017

    Check supply water inlet filter at hose. If not there and considering this to be 120v ac solenoids remove wiring to each solenoid and run 120v jumper individually and check water flow if you get good stream from each know you have a control voltage problem. Have been reading other site post and these valves can be taken apart and cleaned but look for holes in diaphragm if so replace.

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I've been dealing with this problem too...seems worse when the ambient temp (and possibly cold water temp) is lower (machine in unheated garage). After ruling out clogged inlet filters, I've been manually adding water (2L soda bottle) at the start of the first rinse cycle when the red light flashes.

I think this is indeed a problem with one of the 3 solenoids in the 3-way cold inlet valve body: you have to have 3 separate water paths for pre-wash soap, main wash soap, and fabric softener trays. Hot water has only one valve because it is only used in the main wash cycle when appropriate; rinses use cold water only, regardless. Unfortunately, the 3-way part is quite pricey from Miele.

The pre-wash and wash cycles go thru fine because the pre-wash valve is active both times. Rinse #1 relies on the bad main-wash solenoid alone...after that, I believe Rinse #2 succeeds because the fabric-softener path is also active.

This suggests a possible hack involving swapping out the bad main-wash valve with the fabric-softener one (or rewiring and swapping hoses to accomplish the same end). That will ensure the bad valve is only used once, in concert with a second good valve--ie, during Rinse #2. I haven't yet tried this, and don't know if disassembling and physically swapping the valves is feasible.

Posted on Sep 25, 2017

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