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Surface element not working

Used voltmeter to test terminal ends on switch and limiter. Switch appears to be functioning properly. found a terminal on the limiter without power that shows power on a working burner. Replaced the limiter however the burner still does not work. Checked continuity on element, and it shows their is continuity. What am I missing?
email gbburch@comcast.net

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  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    measurements are consistant with a working burner

  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    Maybe I am not making the measurements correct. I get a measurement of 120 our of all 4 burner switches

  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    with that test it appears that the element is bad. Where would the best place be to order a new element?

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Well if you tested voltage on switch (ensure it was correct, this is most common cause for this prob.), and on the limiter, and if they work on a different burner then you need to replace the burner element. The element may be defective even if it shows continuity. If you have a same watts haliant element give it a try replacing the not working one, if it works, it is the element.

Regards

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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Are your measurements correct?

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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Limiter gets sent power from the switch. Check for 240 volts coming out of the switch. Should be labeled h1 and h2.

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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1 Answer

ONE DOUBLE BURNER ONLY WORKS ON HIGH NO MATTER WHERE I SET IT


Hello Miguel;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

There are two electrical components that will cause this problem. The most probable cause is the burner element. Each of your burner elements have a independent temperature sensor. The sensor controls the burner element temperature.
25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-0.jpg
Substitution Part Number: 4453909 Cost: $85.00

This surface element (part number 4453909) is for electric ranges, including Whirlpool electric range model GJC3034RB00.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breakers to disconnect electrical power to the range before replacing the surface element. Wear gloves to protect your hands when replacing surface element on your electric range.
This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to priorparts including 9759351.

OR:
25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-3.jpg
PART NUMBER: 8523698 Cost: $71.00

The other less likely electrical component is Surface Element Control Switch. Each burner has a independent control switch.

25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-8.jpg
Cost: $46.00

To check the switch: Remove the switch 2 contacts on the left. With a multi-meter, set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Put one meter lead on one switch contact and the other meter lead on the other contact. If the switch is good you meter will read "0" Ohms.

Jan 18, 2015 | Whirlpool GR673LXSS - Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.


Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Nov 04, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

JMP28B ELECTRIC RANGE STOVE TOP WORKS/READ OUT AND OVEN DOES NOT.BREAKER HAS BEEN CHECKED


I just finished repairing mine so I thought I would share. Symptoms:
1. stove top burners function correctly
2. ERC (electronic oven control with the readout) functioning with no error code
3. Could set temperature of oven or broiler and turn on.
4. Could here the "click" of the relays but oven or broiler would not heat and temperature reading would stay at 100.

After consulting the owners manual it become quickly apparent this was useless. Spent a lot of time on the web trying to find a wiring diagram and finally located it undr the stove top. DUH!
After looking at the diagrams it seemed that the common connections to both the broiler and oven elements are:
1. Line 2 (L2 on the diagram) of the incoming 230 volt power.
2. Thermal switch supplying Line 1 (L1 on the diagram) to the ERC
3. The ERC and/ or relays on the ERC supplying power from L1 to the elements.

With a multimeter on the resistance function and power off, I checked the thermal switch and it was ok. There are 2 switches located close together and the one in question is the larger one and has a small red reset button on top. This button resets this switch if it activates due to a temperature over 300 degrees. The other switch turns a fan on and off and is not pertinent to this problem.

I then turned the power on and confirmed power at the L1 terminal of the ERC. I turned the oven on and waited for the "click" of the realy and checked for power at the BA terminal of the ERC. This BA terminal is the output to the oven heating element. It was dead. I repeated for the BR terminal (broiler element output) and it to was dead. To check for power one can use any red wire on a top burner switch for one lead of the meter with the other lead to the terminal in question. Be very careful if one posses no electrical experience as one could get electrocuted. If unsure find someone with experience to check with power on.

Seems the problem was in the ERC as there was power going in and nothing coming out to the elements. The clicking of the relays showed that they were functioning. I took the ERC apart and "rang out" the poer circuit for the elements and found that the power to the oven relay was interlocked through the broiler relay. This is probably to keep both elements from hating at the same time. I found a bad solder joint at the connection of the first (broiler) relay to L1. This explains why neither element would work. Afetr resoldering the connection I reassembled everything and tested. All is now functioning correctly.

Steve

Jul 03, 2011 | GE Spacemaker JMP28 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

It seems as if the thermostat for the oven is not working.


GAS UNIT:ELECTONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE .(IF ELECTRONIC IGNITION, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE PLUG FOR YOUR STOVE IS PLUGGED IN. IF IT IS PLUGGED IN AND YOU CAN'T GET IGNITION, THEN CHECK FOR TRIPPED BREAKER OR BAD PLUG IN OUTLET, OR GFCI RESET SWITCH IS NOT TRIPPED. IF ALL IS OK THEN MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING GAS TO THE UNIT. CHECK SELECTOR KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION OR CRACKS TO MAKE SURE IT IS OPERATING PROPERLY. IF ALL IS OK THEN REPLACE SELECTOR SWITCH,THERMOSTAT IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.)

GAS UNIT:NON ELECTRONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE ALL PILOTS ARE LIT. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GAS COMING TO THE UNIT. IF ALL IS OK, THEN DO THIS:
REPLACE OVEN SAFETY VALVE OR THERMOCOUPLE OR ADJUST THE FLAME HEIGHT AT THE OVEN PILOT. ALSO CHECK OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH FOR CRACKS OR PROPER OPERATON. CHECK THE SELECTOR SWITCH 1ST. IF ALL ARE OK THEN TURN OFF GAS TO THE UNIT FROM BEHIND THE STOVE AND REPLACE THE SELECTOR SWITCH, THE THERMOSTAT WIRE IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.TURN GAS BACK ON AFTER REPLACING THE NEW SWITCH AND CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS.

ELECTRIC UNIT:

CHECK THERMOSTAT KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT CRACKED. IF NOT CRACKED , LIFT OVEN TOP AND CHECK FOR LOOSE WIRING. IF ALL IS GOOD, CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON UPPER AND LOWER ELEMENTS. CHECK BY REMOVING ELEMENTS, GET MULTIMETER, WITH ELEMENTS REMOVED, TURN METER TO VOLT/AMPS AND TOUCH RED TEST WIRE TO ONE END OF THE ELEMENT AND THE BLACK TEST WIRE TO THE OTHER END. IF IT READS OR MOVES AT ALL THE ELEMENT IS GOOD. TEST THE OTHER ELEMENT THE SAME WAY. IF ALL IS GOOD, RECONNECT ELEMENTS INSIDE THE OVEN. REPLACE THE ELEMENT. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR VOLTAGE TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH WITH THE METER TO MAKE SURE IT IS GOOD BEFORE REPLACING THERMOSTAT.

Apr 13, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

0ne of the surface units does not heat. Frigidaire Electric Range


HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know

Thanks
Vic

May 17, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Surface Burner not heating


HI, The wire that comes with the receptical also comes with wire nut and instructions. It is only a two wire receptical so you will not ned a schematic. Alos, make sure the ends of the element are clean (no burn marks) or it will ruin the ne receptical in time. Can I help further?

Vic

May 16, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Dual element burner not working


You have to use a voltmeter and test the voltage where the wires connect to the element. If you have voltage (probably 240volts) then the switch is good.

You then remove the element, and check it with an ohm meter to verify that the element is open.

Sounds like the switch to me, but you have to check it

May 01, 2009 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Hot surface indicator


The component that controls the hot surface light is part of the element. If there is a light for each element you just replace that element. If there's one for the whole surface or each side you'll have to figure out which element is causing the problem.

Oct 27, 2007 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

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