Question about Whirlpool TEDX640PQ Dryer

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I have used tedx640eq0 whirlpool dryer. Just moved into a new apartment that had a 3 prong plug. I connected the 2 hot's and put the ground on one of the ground terminals at the new 4 prong socket that I installed. Dryer didn't run. Changed the ground to the other terminal runs, heats, but timer doesn't run. My gut reaction tells me that I could put in a jumper between the neutral and ground terminals at the socket. Not sure if that would be OK or not? I guess they have isolated the ground and neutral for a reason. Any help appreciated

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  • bstratt Jun 06, 2010

    My first job was as an electrician's helper many moons ago for my brother. At that time all the grounds and neutrals actually hooked to the same block in the houses breaker panel. I imagine you could read continuity across any neutral and any ground in the house. I guess from what I have read that the grounds and neutrals are now isolated in the breaker panel and the power company supplies a 4 wire feed to the house. I also have read that I should take out the 4 prong plug I installed and change the dryer to a 3 prong chord. Will bridging from neutral screw to the case with an appropriate gauge wire work? Or would looking up the wiring diagram for my particular dryer be necessary?

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The reason for the 4-wire plug/socket system is that in the older 3-wire units, cabinet 'ground' was actually 'neutral' carrying current for the 115 volt parts of the dryer, while the two 'hots' were supplying 230 volt power for the heater and motor. This allowed a voltage difference between the dryer cabinet and true ground. How did you wire 3-wires (coming from the apartment electrical panel) into the 4-wire dryer socket? Dryer cabinet ground should go to true ground at the electrical panel, and dryer neutral should go to electrical panel neutral. Did Whirlpool violate the separation of 'neutral' and 'ground' when the machine was made (did the timer neutral connection go to cabinet ground instead of machine neutral or is the timer motor stuck)? Your dilemma would be answered by having the apartment owner hire a licensed electrician to upgrade the dryer service to 4-wire specifications. The ground to neutral connection you mentioned may make it work, but you will wind up with the 'hot' cabinet condition that the 4-wire setup was supposed to alleviate. Hope some of this helps!

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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  • drallim Jun 06, 2010

    Electrical panels are now wired with separate ground and neutral buses. The ground bus is fastened directly to the metal cabinet and the cabinet is locally grounded to a driven metal rod in the earth. The neutral bus is isolated from the cabinet. The power company brings in 3-wires--the 230volt hot pair and neutral all of which are connected across the secondary of the pole transformer. The neutral is also grounded at the transformer, again locally through a driven ground rod in the earth. The 4-wire socket would be correct if both earth ground and neutral were connected to their respective points in the electrical panel and in the socket. It would be a code violation to leave the ground pin in the socket unconnected. Try connecting the dryer socket connection points of ground and neutral together as you suggested with a short length of #12 wire to see if that makes the timer run. If it still doesn't run, then the timer is defective in some way. You will be facing the 'hot' cabinet dilemma if left connected, but that is better than having a floating ground on the dryer. If you move out of the apartment, it would be best to reconvert the socket to the original 3-wire unit. Good luck!

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