Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS02FRSS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

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BI METAL THERMAL CUT OFF SWITCH KEEPS BLOWING.

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I'm seeing the same issue. Kitchenaid replaced the fuse 3 times and the control board. Still blowing the bimetal switch (bimetal fuse). Now my dishwasher is out of warranty.

Posted on Mar 16, 2012

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You might have debris clogging the drain/disposal. My wife just tried to wash labels off of some old jars, the paper is stuck in the drain and my TCO is blown.

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How do I find fuses in my dishwasher?


Bi-Metl Thermal Fuse:
This is a thermal safety device that installs in the console. When the temperature inside the dishwasher gets too high, the bi-metal fuse burns out and breaks the circuit that allows electricity to flow to and from the main electric control board.
25344427-iz425fqh2xhxqmgetbjmjp4l-5-0.jpg

Dec 31, 2014 | GE Nautilus 24" Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

How to check door switch for being bad


Hello Don;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

You need to purchase a multi-meter. This is a tool that will save you a lot of money in your self repair off all of your appliances. They Cost $20-25.00.

The two primary reasons your dishwasher may not start is your Bi-Metl thermal fuse and the door switch.

1.) Bi-Metl Thermal Fuse:
This is a thermal safety device that installs in the console. When the temperature inside the dishwasher gets too high, the bi-metal fuse burns out and breaks the circuit that allows electricity to flow to and from the main electric control board.
25344427-iz425fqh2xhxqmgetbjmjp4l-5-0.jpg
Substitution Part Number: W10258275 - Cost: $25.00
It is located next to your control board. Caution: Before touching you control board ground your self by rubbing your hands on bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a board.

a.) Turn power off at the breaker box.
b.) Disassembly the control panel to access the thermal fuse.
c.) Disconnect the two leads from the thermal fuse.
d.) With your multi-meter set on the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol), put one meter lead on each contact.
e.) If your get a reading other than, '0' then the thermal fuse is bad.

2.) Door Switch:
This is located in you door handle assembly.
25344427-iz425fqh2xhxqmgetbjmjp4l-5-3.jpg
a.) Lift the switch off the two retaining pins.
b.) Disconnect the two contact wires.
c.) Using your multi-meter the same as above - hold the switch button in with the two meter leads on each contact. Here, you also are looking for '0' Ohms if the contact switch is good.

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On my DIMPLEX LYM28E heater, two of the heating elements start to glow and then cut out. Is there a thermal cutout on these bars?


Let me tell you my experience with a GE clothes dryer that I've had for a long time and had to fix a few times. The thermal switch was a "throw away" - that is, once it activates, it's done and needs to be replaced. This switch was attached to the back-wall of the dryer body and the thermal sensing face was up against the metal surface of the dryer. They "why" it activated (that is kicked off the power to the dryer) is that the body of the dryer was getting too warm/hot from a drying cycle and that activated it. The switch cost about $12 and it consists of a small diameter bi-metalic element that - when it heated up, it pushed its internal contacts apart and kills the power to the dryer. I took the switch apart and the whole process became clear as to why this was happening - not enough ventilation around the dryer. Of course, taking the switch apart killed it so don't expect to use it again. Make sure your dryer is clean of lint around the blower motor and that the exhaust stack is not up against the body of the dryer, or insulate it so if it does touch, its not going to transfer the temperature to the dryer metal.

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1 Answer

Mbs45 blade undercuts out of square, twist in 2x2 1/8" tubing


I believe Black bull band saw is a Taiwan imported saw. They are even cheaper to HF band saws. This band saw have so many issues; make sure you align the guides, tune it up and use good bi metal band saw blades. I suggest you use the Haltbar 601 bi metal blade. I'm using Haltbar and I'm getting really nice cut.

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I believe you are referring to the 4 or 5 thermal cut-off switches found in most dryers. These are simply 'on-off' switches and most commonly are in the 'normally on' state. Once they reach a certain temperature, the bi-metal switch inside will open the contacts creating an open circuit. Simple continuity testing will determine if they are working. There is a nice write-up on the standard repair of most dryers in the link I have provided.

Mar 05, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

The bi-metal fuse keeps blowing on my dishwasher and it hasn't drained properly


youre motor is straining .this can cause a electricle fire call service man asap do not use this is unsafe

Mar 21, 2013 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

What is a thermal overload switch? We had a storm and lost power in the house. The fuse did not blow but the next day the pump would not work. We changed the fuse as a precaution. I believe the thermal...


A TOC is a bi-metal strip in a canister , they are normally placed on the motor windings and in most cases are auto-resetting.

All they do is sense the temperature of the windings and when they exceed the limit of the TOC (Which is set by the motor maker) they flip the Bi-Metal strip and open circuit the supply.

Normally once the motor has cooled down the strip relaxes back to the original position and the supply is restored.

It is not a standard practice to have a push button re-set however on that will depend on the makers whims

What you may have is a Thermal Fuse which melts if the motor gets too hot and you then need to strip the unit down to both check it and if possible replace it.

By looking at the rating plate on the motor you may find the manufacturer and approach them for a data sheet

Aug 23, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

CAN I USE A 250 DEGREE LIMIT INSTEAD OF A THERMAL CUT OFF SWITCH?


Those 250 degree thermostats will fail frequently. That is why they come in the package with the thermal cut off. You can reset the thermal cut off by Slamming it on a hard surface, did you know that? What you need to do is determine the root cause of why that dude keeps blowing. The top 2 reasons that small puppy will blow is a stopped up vent and a stopped up filter housing. You will need to physically remove the filter housing to get it right. Take a look at these repair PIX

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1 Answer

When i choose normal wash and the cycle has been complete I open up the dishwasher and at that time the detergent pocket opens up and drips out the detergent. My glasses are all chalky and unclean


When the detergent cup doesn't open, check these:

Timer
Bi-metal switch or wax motor
Detergent cup, itself
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards.

The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it.

On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly.

Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly

Jul 16, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Not using salt


When the detergent cup doesn't open, check these:

Timer
Bi-metal switch or wax motor
Detergent cup, itself
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards.

The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it.

On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly.

Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly

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