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Make sure you are punching the right buttons on the circle of buttons. There are inside buttons and outside buttons.
It took me several tries until I realized I was pushing the outside ones instead of the inside ones. Once I carefully looked at the button setup, I had no problems.
Is it the correct size fuse ? Is it the power fuse or remote ? Either way check your connections going into the amp . Try this hook your other amp to the set of wires for the rockford if that amp has a problem its a wireing problem if not chances are its an interal problem on the rockford . Hope this helps !
well if the amp works with the car off and when you start it the fuse blows then you may have alternator issues use a volt meter to check battery voltage is not above 14.5 volts
if the fuse blows when the amp turns on then most likely you have a shorted output section in the amp.
It sounds like you either blew a fuse, or you cooked your amp. The fuse on the P200.2 amp is a 30A fuse, and it sits right next to the power, ground, and remote wire connections on the end. Pull the fuse out and see if it's blown. You should also check any other fuses that you have in the car before the amp.
Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.
All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.
There is no reset button, if you've confirmed that you have a good ground and sufficient voltage on the B+ and remote terminals, the ampifier is in need of repair.
If you're interested in troubleshooting/repairing it yourself, read through the following page to familiarize yourself with the inner workings of an amplifier.
A common problem on these amps is broken connections on the remote turn-on connector lug. If it's loose in the board, that would be the first thing you'd need to repair.
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