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Whirlpool top load LSC9000PW2 Water pump works. Gadget above transmission turns. Tub doesn't turn.

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  • craigcm Jun 04, 2010

    Your help did save me some frustration, time, and money.
    I think it is time for to buy a new washer though.



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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

Hi. Are you hearing any clicking or plastic grinding noises during the spinning attempt?

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

  • 10 more comments 
  • craigcm Jun 04, 2010


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Ok, this unit doesn't have a transmission. This will be a direct drive system. it incorporates the gear case and motor coupler. The motor is actually connected directly to the bottom section of the gear case(drive shaft), via coupler.

    Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the gear drive shaft. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

    Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

    There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

    Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

    Now, if the coupler proves to be in good condition, this will lead to a failed basket block drive..

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    • The block drive or inner tub drive block is responsible for transferring the rotary power to the inner tub. This drive may be stripped,thus, allowing the the drive shaft to spinning freely without turning the inner tub. Check the coupler first to be sure that it is not the culprit.

  • craigcm Jun 04, 2010

    The coupler is to be tranfering to the gearcase.

    The silver thing above the gearcase is turning.

    I'm guessing it's the basket block drive??


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Just a quick question here. When you mentioned a gadget above the transmission(gear case) turning, where you referring to the actual drive tube or lower sections of the direct drive assembly?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Ok, the drive block is indeed damaged, in this case.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Due to the fact that the drive tube is rotating, this will rule out any direct drive assembly issues. The drive block is simply stripped, at this point. This is a very intense repair. The entire cabinet will need to be disassembled. The drive block is attached to the lower section of the tub, directly in the middle. It is a aluminum cylindrical nut that fits snugly above the upper section of the drive tube. Click Here to access an exploded diagram of the tube and agitator assembly. The affected part will be labeled number 17 on the diagram provided. The necessary part number will be 389140(drive block/inner tub).

  • craigcm Jun 04, 2010

    The gadget above the gearcase is about 4 " diameter.

    I'm guessing that I need to pull off the agitator from above, but I'm not seeing how to do that.

    Is this a relatively easy thing for someone with medium mechanical ability to do?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    I have to be honest. This repair will not be easy. The agitator bolt and screw can be very tough to remove and it should be removed first, as you have stated. Use this procedure to help with the agitator extraction.

    The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off. Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytag's may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.

  • craigcm Jun 04, 2010

    This is getting a bit deeper than I thought.

    I got the plastic agitator out.

    I got the tub out.

    The case is off, so I can see the motor etc.

    Looking from above, the shaft barely turns. It has very little torque.

    The 4" gadget above the gearbox continues to spin.

    Are you sure this can be accessed from above?

    It is about 8 years old.

    It may be time for another trip to Costco.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Concerning the agitator:

    This device can be removed from the top. The bolt has to be removed as i mentioned in the agitator removal guide, above. Now, concerning the drive block; This will be more difficult for the novice do it yourself-er. The entire outer tub must be separated from the inner tub. Once the two tub inserts are separated, the drive block can be accessed. It is located in the middle sector of the inner tub.

    I recommend to contact a certified technician, at this point. This repair, as mentioned above, can be a bit tough on the novice. Mechanical experience is preferred, in this case.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 04, 2010

    Years of continuous washing frequencies will damage the original drive block. There may be considerable gear case issues as well, due to the age of the assembly.



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I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II washing machine (model LSN1000JQ0). The washer will fill with water and begin to agitate. Shortly after it will stop and will not drain. I've cleaned all hoses

see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool top loading washer, LXR9245EQ2, quit agitating, spinning and makes a clacking noise, pump looks like it's still holding the water in the tub though and won't pump out?

There are two clips that hold the pump to the motor, remove it and inspect, turn pump axle in either direction. If not replace the pump. However if you remove it you may find a sock or something in which case you can remove item and put back into service. If jammed you need to replace with a new pump. Good luck, masta tech
P.s.if water remains in tub it has something blocking it, be ready to capture any water in tub when removing hose clamps. If it a small amount you may be able to just lean it backward to hold water.

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When I turn the washer on the water drains continually through the drain pipe. It does not hold any water in the machine How do I fix it?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

The first thing to check is that the drain hose is above the water level in the washer. If the the top of the hose is below the level of the water, it will simply drain out. The pump does not keep the water in the machine. It's basically used to force the water up and out of the drain hose.


I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

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