Amana ARB2517CW the refrigerator used to click and the evaporator fan was working. I changed the overload relay (but kept the old condensor). The fridge worked for two minutes and then everything stopped working but the light is on

Get the main control board of the refrigerator and freezer section checked.its got short or its stuck up in stand by mode.
The Relay part which you replaced was either weak or not connected properly and this made the board stuck up.
IF the board is short the cost of repairing/replacement will be heavy.
check out.Thanks.

Hi,

The sound you are hearing is the overload clicking. The relay/overload is attached to the side of the compressor. Remove it and give it a shake - if it rattles than replace it. If the compressor still doesn't run with a new relay/overload than check your warranty for replacement of the compressor. FYI the compressor should still operate run with a faulty run capacitor but it will decrease it's efficiency.

However here is how to test your refrigerator's compressor relay though its not an easy job to perform….
Before working on your refrigerator, always unplug the unit or turn off the circuit breaker that powers it. You never want to work on it while it is plugged in because the compressor could kick on at any time!
Locate your compressor. It is usually at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. It is usually large and cylindrical. On the right side of the compressor you should see a box with wires coming out of it. In this box is where the compressor relay is located.
IMPORTANT: Some older refrigerators use a capacitor with their compressors. If yours has a capacitor wired to the compressor, it will need to be discharged prior to working on the unit. Take your 20-amp wire wound resistor (available from most electronics stores) and touch the leads of the resistor to the terminals on the capacitor. This will remove any retained voltage and eliminate the risk of backcurrent shock.
Remove the cover on the compressor relay box. The cover is usually held in place by retaining clips or tension clips. There are usually three components inside this box: the compressor relay, the compressor motor terminals and the overload protector. The compressor relay is the largest component and will either be wirewound or solid state. If the part is solid state, then you will have to have a professional test the part, as it requires specific equipment for testing. If you have a wirewound relay, pull it straight off of the compressor.
Use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the connector off of the relay's terminal. Be sure to pull it off by grasping the connector and NOT the wire. Check both the wire connector and the compressor relay for any signs of corrosion.
After you dust the relay off, take a good look at it. You should see two plug-type terminals marked "S" and "M" and the slip-on terminal marked "L." Set your multitester to read ohms (usually the X1 or RX1 setting). Set the relay on a flat surface so that the "S" and "M" terminals are on the bottom.
Insert one probe of your tester into the "S" terminal and one in the "M" terminal. Your tester should have a reading of "zero" ohms. Keeping the probes inserted in the terminals, turn the relay over. You should hear an audible "click" and the tester's reading should change from "zero" to "infinity."
Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "S" terminal and the other probe to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn it over again with the probes still on the terminals and the tester should read "infinity."
Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "M" terminal and the other to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn the relay over with the probes still in place and the tester's reading should not change -- it will remain at zero ohms.
If your compressor relay passes this series of tests, then your relay is not the problem with your refrigerator. If it fails any one of these tests, then take it to an appliance parts shop and purchase a replacement. Replace everything back in its original position and be sure to remove the 20-ohm resistor from the capacitor before plugging the refrigerator back in.

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