- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
An open limit switch may make the fan run all the time. Try disconnecting the Green wire @ the furnace...if that does the trick, then either the thermostat fan relay is stuck, or there is a short between the Red & Green wires somewhere in the thermostat wire.
Welcome to the world of Ruud! Ok James heres the deal. It sounds like the condenser fan motor has failed. Its not a repairable item but the motor is not too expensive. Disconnect the main power at the fuse block on the side of your house next to your a/c. Remove the screws that hold the top fan section and carefully turn the fan/panel assembly over taking care not to stress the wires. Determine how the fan is mounted (probably 4 screws) and go find your new motor. Both Rheem and Ruud use the same motor mounting. Most a/c supply houses have a motor that will fit or go to graingers. Make sure you get a matching run capacitor for that motor. It will have separate wires and not share any wiring with the old capacitor. The old capacitor will have to stay in place since it is also connected to the compressor. The old motor will have 3 wires and the new one 4 (2 brown for the capacitor and 2 others to put on the contactor that the compressor wires go to). If its a heat pump it could be a board and youll need help. good luck
Remove green (fan run) wire from thermostat, and connect to red wire (power) and see if fan runs, and if it will stay running. That will by-pass thermostat to see if it is problem. If it continues to run, thermostat is problem. If that doesn't cure it, I'd remove cover up top and with power off at circuit breaker, blow compressed air in to motor air holes to make sure it's getting proper air for cooling, as well look for small plastic plug on housing where oil can be added ( few drops) to lubricate motor. Leave cover off and try fan to see if that may help. If at all possible, a clamp on amp meter will confirm if motor or relay is at fault if none of these suggestions help. If amp draw at motor too much, motor may be seizing when warmed up from running. test draw when first started and after running for amount of time that it usually quits, and if noticeable difference, motor is seizing and needs replace. You can also test amp draw at main 120v feed wiring with unit just in fan mode.
I would check the fan capacitor first. You can do that with a multimeter with the capacitor test function. I don't think the compressor would affect the fan like that. If anyone worked on the unit before it started running like that you should make sure the capacitor is connected to the start wire and not the run wire. Let me know what you find.
Turn off the power to the air handler(indoor unit). Remove the access panel. From the motor,trace the wires back to the fan relay. One wire will probably trace back to the incoming power terminal. The other is the fan relay. It could be intermittent thermostat signal to the relay or a bad relay. To verify if the fan motor is good,you can remove the one wire from the relay and re-attach it to the other side of the incoming power terminal. If it runs OK there,replace the relay. If it does not run,replace the blower motor.
Sounds like you may have a bad fan capacitor or a bad fan motor. Remove the inside cover from the air conditioner and access the squirrel cage fan or, remove the shroud from the top to access the fan that way. Have someone turn the thermostat on as you spin the fan motor by hand. If the motor starts and runs, then you have a bad capacitor. If the fan motor still does not come on, then there are a couple of possible problems.
When you turn the thermostat to fan, do you hear an audible click in the control unit of the ac? If so, then you know that the thermostat is sending 12V to the fan relay on the board.
I think the motor just may be frozen up. Try spinning the motor by hand and see what happens. Again, if it starts, then just lube the shaft points on the motor with some WD-40 and all should be fine. If the fan motor starts and then after the cycle, does not restart, then you definitely have a bad capacitor.
Assuming "Window Unit" with rotary switch. L1 (smooth part of line cord) to thermostat 1, thermostat 2 to overload (black disk) from overload to Common( C) terminal on compressor. From Run (R) terminal on Compressor to Common (C) terminal on dual capacitor. From Start (S) terminal on Compressor to "Herm" terminal on capacitor. From fan motor to # 4 on switch = Medium Speed, to # 6 on switch = High Speed, from fan motor to # 7 on switch - Low Speed. Brown wire from fan motor to (F) on dual capacitor, white wire from fan to (C) on capacitor and L2 (ribbedwire) (N) to (C) on capacitor
You almost have it Look closer at the run capacitor. It has Herm, this is for the compressor, Com or C and F or Fan.
1 of your power wires is the fan speed so connect them accordingly usually black is hi, blue med, & red is low. You are "feeding" voltage to the selector switch on 1 side and coming out to the fan motor speeds.
Next you have a "Common" wire on your fan motor (this means its Common to all the other connections inside the fan motor to me. It is usually white. Connect this to the other line of power usually the Com on the capacitor unless it connects to a strip on the selector switch. But 1 of these 2 places will be the other side of your Power when plugged in. Lastly the brown it is usually the fan capicator only wire and it will connect to the fan "F" terminal on the capicator this terminal will not have any other wires connected to it.
This should make you a happy camper. Please rate me accordingly and good luck.