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I have an old toshiba tv cf-35d50 with vertical problem the picture opens very slowly take about one minute everyday i replace the vertical ic all caps arouded and video prossessor and still the same please help

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Http://www.retrevo.com/support/Toshiba-CF35D50-TVs-manual/id/283bh641/t/2/ Above is your user manual, below this is a Training manual, this is what is used to train engineers to troubleshoot and repair these units, it will give you valuable insight into set repair. http://www.scribd.com/doc/7520950/Toshiba-CN27E90-TV-Technical-Training-Manual
I would think, that this faults origins are in the actual power supply, You need to find out if all the Voltages are correct, as if the power supply is NOT right, nothing else can be. I would expect that a capacitor has gone high resistance and is involved in the problem. To have any chance of repairing your set, you MUST get a service manual, as without one, it is nearly impossible. Whenever we service something we ALWAYS start at the Power Supply, and work out.
I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. When servicing try not to let the entire thing overwhelm you as one, treat the set as a conjunction of “Units”. Meaning that we can break the unit up into sections, for instance we have a Power Supply, and Audio section, a Remote Control section, we have a Input Control section, we have a Video Control section, and so on. Now all these connect to specific parts of the circuit. Some have no relationship with each other and some are dependent upon each other. What we need to do is try to understand our “Fault” and isolate it to at least an “Area”. Now when we have isolated the apparent problem, we then need to check our “Input” to that section and also the “Output” of that section, also we must first check that sections supply voltage and current, are correct. Depending on the unit being serviced, the Repair options, may be limited to changing a “Board” to clear the fault. Often these boards are exchangeable, and you get a rebate back, if when you purchase the new board, you send them you old broken board, and they then repair that, and around it goes. Other times, one must go down to “Board level” to effect a repair, always double check, before determining some component is faulty, it is best to isolate/remove, the component to test, often an “in situ” test can give erroneous reading due to “Other” components connected, altering the readings. Always replace with as good if not better components that you are replacing, skimping of component costs is counterproductive, in the long run. It can often be a great troubleshooting method, to completely isolate the “Faulty” part of the circuit, if you can, isolate the in & out, and also remove, the “Native” power from, it too. You power from and external source, then also you can provide an External “Drive” to this circuit which you will NOW, be able to test under a, “know good” situation, which is so important to gain a benchmark for operation. NEVER EVER simply replace a Board or Component without ascertaining WHY, it has failed, as seldom does anything spontaneously fail, unless placed under stress at all operating times, such as a power Supply or the like.

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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1 Answer

Horizontal line running through the middle tv screen, no picture but has sound. TV is a Toshiba.


You haven't vertical deflection.
The ff caused the problem.
1. Dry joints on the vetical section.
2. Blew Vertical ouput IC
3. Open yoke vetical winding.
4. No vertical output from jungle IC.
5. Open supply for vetical ic due to open fusible resistor.

I've suspect that you have #1 and #2 fault. This is not Diy so I've advice you to send to repair shop or look for a qualified tech to isolate the problem.

Thanks for using fixya.

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Our toshiba is20 some years old. the picture is beautiful but it will flicker and lose the picture down to just a line across the screen. its like the horizontal or vertical is going on it. somtimes it...


Since its about 20 years old, it's probably suffering from broken solder joints. Resolder the vertical IC circuit. If that doesn't do it, replace the IC and whatever caps are bad. I just hope you can find the IC or even a sub for it.

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I am repairing my sister TV {Toshiba TN61X81}. The original was no picture and with sound. Upon troubleshooting the vertical deflection, ihad move the screen control for all 3 crts to see the horinzontal...


The easiest way I have found to set the screen controls is to tune into an old black and white show, turn the green up until you see retrace then slowly turn it down until it just dissapears then adjust the blue and red for a true black and white picture.

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Symptom shows TV got problem in vertical out deflection section, please check and replace vertical output IC and nearby electrolytic capacitors.

Jun 25, 2009 | Toshiba Televison & Video

3 Answers

My 15 year old Toshiba Televisiononly shows a narrow horizontal band in the middle of the screen. Sound OK.


Hiii fairley,

You aren't specsificly dercribe yor tv set.
For common TV horizontal problem ;i.e : White line accross the horizontal screen, horizontal band,etc..it's can solved by replacing the IC Vertical/Transistor, and olso to replace the cap nearest the IC.

For common TV Vertical Problem :i.e : White line at the center of the screen (top to bottom),Vertical band,etc...It's can cure by Replacing the Horizontal IC/Transistor,and offcurse the cap's.

Tha's what all I know....

Hope can help you to solved the problem.

Thank's

h3liax

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Check for the cracked solder joints on the IC or dried capacitors on the vertical side

Mar 28, 2009 | Televison & Video

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Toshiba CE35f15 TV


This is a vertical circuit problem that is either bad connections on the vertical IC or a defective IC. If you can solder, you can fix this yourself. Look for a small flat IC attached to a heatsink with about 9-11 pins. It may be marked LA7837 or something similar. Try resoldering the pins first. If that fails to resolve the problem, replace the IC. There may be defective caps in the circuit as well, but those don't usually cause complete vertical failure. If the picture does not return fully, update this and we'll continue on to the next step.

Dan

Sep 29, 2008 | Toshiba Televison & Video

1 Answer

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Just increase the screen voltage slightly by turning the screen control on the LOT and if a horizontal line appears, check the vertical IC supply, and if everything is okay, change the vertical IC, it is not costly.

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1 Answer

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The symptom suggest a faulty converge ic.you need to replace that ic ( stk392-110 ).

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1 Answer

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A white like across the screen means that the vertical circuit has stopped working. Look for a small fuse that looks like a resistor near the vertical output IC, replace that fuse if open and resolder the pins on the vertical output IC.

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