Question about GE J Series 18.2 cu. ft. Top Freezer No-Frost Refrigerator TBX18AABWW

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GE TBX18SKE REFRIGERATOR IS AROUND 55F AND THE FREEZER IS AROUND 22F. I took the heating tube out and did a continuity test, tested good, visually it looks great. I cannot seem to locate the defrost timer. I put a new thermostat switch, the one that clips on the coils behind the freezer cover. I would just replace the heater and the defrost timer if I could just locate the darn thing, it doesn't seem to be behind the temp controls in the fridge either. Can anyone help?

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  • GE Master
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Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezerGE TBX18SKE REFRIGERATOR IS AROUND 55F AND THE - 2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

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I have a GE Profile refrige model PSS26PSTASS. The ice maker has been making ice okay, it's after it is in the bin it melts and then subsequently refreezes into large solid chunks of ice. I've changed the...


Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

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Hi and thanks for using fixya!

This could be any one of 3 problems on this french door GE refrigerator. So lets trouble shoot.

First let me say the most common problem (95% of the time) on this model refrigerator and other GE models like this one is caused by the main control board pt # WR55X10956. I'll leave a link below where you can purchase parts.

1st, (unplug unit) , pull the freezer door out and look on the back wall. (all cold air in fridge comes from the freezer behind the back wall.) Is there a snowy frosty ice build up on the back wall? If so, you have a defrost problem. In this case, remove the freezer drawers, take all food out and remove the back wall (usually 1/4 inch nut driver needed). Also look where the evaporator fan is (vents in middle-top) and you'll see a picture of flat-head screw driver. You'll need to insert screwdriver where it tells you to and pry off vent. Once you have back wall off you'll need to defrost any ice you see. After that you will notice a glass heating element at bottom with one wire connected on both sides. unplug those wires and test element for continuity. Around 0 is good. If you don't have continuity then the heating element is bad. pt# WR51X10094 Link to parts site below. Next, test the thermostat, round-cylinder thing, width of a quarter attached to the evaporator coils (usually at top right and has two wires connected to it, one yellow, one orange). You test this just like the heating element. No continuity means it's bad. pt# WR50X10069. If both test good (and most of the time they do) then you'll need to replace the control board listed above.

Here is link where you can purchase parts listed above. They have good shipping and good return policy.
Appliance Parts

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Hi..

If your refrigerator is not cold enough you need to check this

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Dear Brendadurran,

please rate this solution if it meets ur need,else choose fixya.

please perform the following checks,

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  • hope this would help,please rate this solution if it meets ur needs,else choose fixya.Thank you.

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