Question about Behringer EUROPOWER EP2500 Amplifier
Tragic moment happened when I only had one amp to play for a college exam week flash rave (May 6 2010). So, that said, the amp is a Behringer EP2500 and never gave me any problems.....but it is out of warranty (had it for 2.5 years).
The problem was, my input volume was too high (was not hooked to my DBX driverack PA, and the amp was constantly clipping (one of my friends said both redlights were blinking to sound).
Channel 2 stays clipped and the amp gets egg-cooking hot after 5mins turning on, took off the top and tried to see which side was cooking. So it's channel 2 that the heatsink area towards the front of the amp gets hot and not the back. Channel 1 did go into protection mode also but was not as bad as channel 2. Channel 1 has recovered but the sound that comes out of it is "crunchy", last when i heard it the same night. I haven't checked both channels since.
I need to know which transistors or OP-amps to replace, I don't understand the 15- and 15+ voltage others have been mentioning on other solutions. Both fuses inside the amp are not broken (checked with multimeter). I have the schematic for the whole amp, both channels and have it on my site.
I have a craftsman digital multimeter to work with and a 2nd Behringer amp. I just need to know how to test the components (IC Chips, resistors, caps and transistors) to know if it's still good or not.
I don't need any "throw your amp away" stuff solutions, I'm savy with a soldering iron and my game console(s) but would like to able to fix my $330 EP2500 amp.
Which schematic is better to look at? The QSC RMX2450 or the EP2500 (because some components that is on the amp is not in the schematic)?
There are so many components that can fail that troubleshooting this can be an expensive problem.
HINT: Put a 150 Watt light bulb in series with the power going into to limit current for/during troubleshooting.
Go through and compare the voltages on the teo channels. If power amp transistors have failed, likely the driver transistors also are gone.
Testing components in-circuit is very dificult. Resistors are pretty reliable and usually show damage by discoloration.
Furhter use before repairing MAY cause further damage.
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
Testimonial: "This is just about the most thorough solution I really needed. Which does make my project to fix this amp worth it. Thanks I will try what you say. Thank you."
You need to adjust the BIAS or Quiescent Current for your driver transistors. Wait until your amps heat sinks cool down, turn both volume knobs down, turn on your amp and adjust VR3 on Channel 1 Board until you read 80 mv DC across R2. If the amp gets hot again, shut it off, wait until it cools down and repeat the previous steps. Then adjust VR6 on Channel 2 Board until you read 80 mv across R106. Again, if the amp gets hot before achieving the adjustments, turn it off, wait until it cools down, turn it on again, and proceed with the adjustments. Good luck. If you need the schematic I can give it to you. Best Regards
Posted on Nov 23, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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