Question about Behringer EUROPOWER EP2500 Amplifier

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Behringer EP2500 Clip light Channel 2 stays on & heatsink HOT!

Tragic moment happened when I only had one amp to play for a college exam week flash rave (May 6 2010). So, that said, the amp is a Behringer EP2500 and never gave me any problems.....but it is out of warranty (had it for 2.5 years).

The problem was, my input volume was too high (was not hooked to my DBX driverack PA, and the amp was constantly clipping (one of my friends said both redlights were blinking to sound).

Channel 2 stays clipped and the amp gets egg-cooking hot after 5mins turning on, took off the top and tried to see which side was cooking. So it's channel 2 that the heatsink area towards the front of the amp gets hot and not the back. Channel 1 did go into protection mode also but was not as bad as channel 2. Channel 1 has recovered but the sound that comes out of it is "crunchy", last when i heard it the same night. I haven't checked both channels since.

I need to know which transistors or OP-amps to replace, I don't understand the 15- and 15+ voltage others have been mentioning on other solutions. Both fuses inside the amp are not broken (checked with multimeter). I have the schematic for the whole amp, both channels and have it on my site.

I have a craftsman digital multimeter to work with and a 2nd Behringer amp. I just need to know how to test the components (IC Chips, resistors, caps and transistors) to know if it's still good or not.

I don't need any "throw your amp away" stuff solutions, I'm savy with a soldering iron and my game console(s) but would like to able to fix my $330 EP2500 amp.

Which schematic is better to look at? The QSC RMX2450 or the EP2500 (because some components that is on the amp is not in the schematic)?

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  • Bizeek Bui Jun 08, 2010

    Any one else with solution? Does anyone know how a burnt op-amp looks like? One LM311 IC looks like liquid or flux came out and covered the surface where the number is branded on the chip. I'm thinking about replacing the OP-AMP & 2 of the 50N06 (T10 & T12) since the other post, it was one of the solution. Anyone else specialize in fixing this amp and the QSC RMX2450?

    I've compared the 2 schematics and they are both almost a like in the design(many others have said this).

  • Bizeek Bui Jun 18, 2014

    i need to update.... i gave up repairing this amp ans sold it on ebay for a better tech repairman to tey and repair. sold it for $100. now i am left with my 2nd Behringer amp that smokes up at the power distrubution circuit board in the rear left corner. it smokes up within 5 seconds of first turning on the amp.

  • Bizeek Bui Jun 18, 2014

    to Ebay**



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There are so many components that can fail that troubleshooting this can be an expensive problem.

HINT: Put a 150 Watt light bulb in series with the power going into to limit current for/during troubleshooting.

Go through and compare the voltages on the teo channels. If power amp transistors have failed, likely the driver transistors also are gone.

Testing components in-circuit is very dificult. Resistors are pretty reliable and usually show damage by discoloration.

Furhter use before repairing MAY cause further damage.

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

Testimonial: "This is just about the most thorough solution I really needed. Which does make my project to fix this amp worth it. Thanks I will try what you say. Thank you."

  • 1 more comment 
  • Fred Yearian Jun 08, 2010

    In the first place, the LM311 is NOT an op-amp but a comparator.

    Most chips will either show a burned spot or raised spot in the middle OR there will be "greasy" looking traces on the sides of the chip near the middle when fried.

    If the LM311 is fried, you have a MAJOR number of other things that would be fried as well. T45, T46 and/or the opposite side T36, T37 would likely be gone. D79 and/or D59.

    The section with T15 and T17 might also have damage as well as the eight transistors that are in two groups in parallel. D78 would be suspect as well as the gate resistors for the switchers.

    This amp has an odd design and appears to be a hybrid of class D switching amp (the LM311 comparator driven parts and a linear section with all those parallel transistors.

    I can almost guarantee that if the power MOSFET switchers have failed that the driver transistors I have mention as well as the LM311 are gonzo. The circuitry is similar to that they use in the power supplies in the PMP series powered mixers.

    The only thing I can recommend is to check EACH component that are in the line of fire before powering the unit again and DO use the limiting light bulb trick.

  • Stoffie May 22, 2011

    Hi Freddy,
    I'm repairing a Behringer EP2500 right now (i buy defective amps, Crown, Behringer, Craaft, Crest Audio, ... on Ebay, fix them and sell them back), and they are NOT class D (digital signal on the output transistors with an LC filter on the output).
    This is what they call a class A/AB, invented & patented by CROWN in 1974. (google for it, you'll find plenty of info).
    It's a little ackward design, i agree, but it has a lot of advantages compared to the "normal" class AB. And yes they are complicated to work on.:

    * in this design the transistor only "sees" the peak voltage where in the AB design it "sees" TWICE the peak voltage, resulting in cheaper power components. (a 150V / 15A / 150W transistor is cheaper than a 250V / 15A / 250W transistor)

    * Where the "normal" AB design uses two sec. coils on the transformer (symmetric power supply) with center tap to GND, and with each pos. or neg. alternance only 1 coil is doing the work, the A/AB design uses a MONORAIL power supply with FLOATING GND (set by the output transistors), this means that the transformer sec. coil is used constantly for pos. as for the neg. alternance, by balancing the voltage up and down (it follows the signal). In other words, with a 80V single supply, you can create a output swing of +80V and -80V !! Resulting in a smaller / lighter transformer ... With a AB design you'll need a 160V power supply with center tap. This is why QSC, Crown & Craaft can fit a 2x2000W FULLY ANALOG amp in a 2 units 19" rack. Working with SMPS is another thing, lighter, but more complex.

    To be correct the EP2500 is a class G, this is a class AB (or A/AB) with a sec. power rail that comes in action when a certain output level is reached, this way they can limit the heat dissipation and use a smaller heatsink.
    A class H would be better, this uses the same technology as a class G, but instead of jumping to a higher voltage, it follows the signal a few volts above the output, this reduces the dissipation even more, but uses more power components.

    But like i said, they're tricky to work on, for example: when measuring the power rails, they have the signal superposed on it ... and THINK first where you're connecting the GND of your scope probe in the circuit, because the GND IS NOT THE GND like in a "normal" AB design !! The power supply HAS NO GND.

    Compared to the QSC RMX2450 they are ALLMOST the same, main differences are:

    * QSC uses a NE5532 opamp, Behringer uses a LM4580, the NE5532 has better specs (SN ratio...)

    * QSC uses 2N3904 & 3906 transisors, Behringer MPSA06 & A56, not much difference here.

    * IMPORTANT, And this is where one day you'll thank QSC for, because it's only 7 components that WILL make the difference. QSC uses a "crowbar" on the output, for DC protection (only the RMX2450), this will blow the 25A fuse and keep the speakers safe, Behringer has NO PROTECTION !! (bye bye amp & bye bye speakers) I don't understand why Behringer left this out, it's so important and it costs NOTHING, i recommend building it youreself and implement it in the amp (7 components ... pleaeaease !!)
    For schematics, QSC has EVERYTHING on their support webpage, for Behringer, use google.

  • Stoffie May 22, 2011

    Me again ...
    Sorry for the mistake, the EP2500 has the crowbar circuit, it's the EP1500 that doesn't.



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You need to adjust the BIAS or Quiescent Current for your driver transistors. Wait until your amps heat sinks cool down, turn both volume knobs down, turn on your amp and adjust VR3 on Channel 1 Board until you read 80 mv DC across R2. If the amp gets hot again, shut it off, wait until it cools down and repeat the previous steps. Then adjust VR6 on Channel 2 Board until you read 80 mv across R106. Again, if the amp gets hot before achieving the adjustments, turn it off, wait until it cools down, turn it on again, and proceed with the adjustments. Good luck. If you need the schematic I can give it to you. Best Regards

Posted on Nov 23, 2012


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