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Re: fuse keeps melting
Yes this can be repaired and no you wouldn't have to have an external fuse. What you need to do is first find someone that is good with a soldering iron. Next open the amplifier and look at the area where the fuse holder is located. You want to make sure that the area is clean and that the board is not damaged. To make sure that the area is clean well take some regular rubbing alcohol, 70% or higher,and a small paint brush put the brush in the alcohol and clean the area that was causing the problem regardless if there is any debris or not. This not only cleans the area but also prepares it for the solder job that is to come. Next take your soldering iron out apply solder wick to the board and remove all the old solder on the board. Make sure that you do not lift the pads that the connections are soldered to. after you have removed all the old solder from both the board and the fuse holder place the fuse holder into the slots where it belongs and apply some flux and fresh solder to the area. this will take no time to cool. be careful not to burn the board. After that has all been done put the amplifier back together and test it out. You should not have any problems after that.
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It's worth noting here that it's more about the physical size & shape of the Fuse thats needed to fit your Fan.
You don't have to use exactly a 5 amp @ 125v fuse.
Any fuse that Fits and is in the range of 5,6,7,8,10 Amp and even 230v is ok.
The fuse is like a piece of soft metal that will melt if too much current is being drawn by the device. The Amps & Volts only define approximately when the fuse link will melt (blow). But as the fan gets dirty and older the LOAD it draws might get slightly higher. Enough to cause the fuse to slowly melt. So a small to 6, 8, or 10 Amp should work just fine. A wiring short will still cause the 10 Amp fuse to blow thereby keeping things safe. The manufacturer uses a fuse that fits in the space he has allocated & allows the unit to run continuously without blowing on a slight load.
But it is only a safety device to protect the device from internal shorts.
It stops a shorted motor or shorted internal wiring from getting too hot and possibly causing a fire.
But a 20 or 30Amp fuse would still blow if it is shorted.
For example...If the 5 A fuse keeps blowing then you could try say an 8 or 10 Amp fuse. If that blows then their is definitely a problem with the circuit. Don't put anything larger than 10 Amp in.
It then needs to be looked at by a service technician.
The voltage rating on a household fuse isn't that critical.
It's actually the wattage it takes to melt the fuse link. It's based on the mathematics of Ohms Law (Watts =Volts x Amps)
But thats another story....
Just replacing the plug or terminal will be enough. Make sure to tighten the replacement very well. Loose contacts create high electrical resistance heating the plug or terminal. High temperature creates even more resistance heating even more the plug or terminal. This is the reason why it melts. Good luck.
total the fuses on the amp eg.3 -20amp fuses = 60 amps and get a fuse holder that can handle that amount of amps the amplifier draws with matching fuse and change the one that was melted ,also very important is to have a clean grounded wire to chasis from amplifier.
OK well at 120 Volts at say 25 Amps (well below blowing potential) that equals 6000 WATTS 6KW, on a near short circuit. going through it...You would melt TOO.
I always use Ceramic ones myself, look they get HOT real HOT, BUT shouldn''t melt.
But in saying that your Electric shower shouldn't draw that much anyway, in reality. it may draw 10A - 15A, at most? more like 5A - 10A,
So i suspect you have a fault to earth somewhere you need to call an electrician. You may just have discovered a very bad fault. Some sort of short or leakage to earth or something?
A shower shouldn't draw anywhere near enough current to cause this type of occurrence. Please disconnect it by tripping the breaker and call a professional. get that melted one changed anyway.
sounds like the remote wire is shorted somewhere in it and needs to be replaced. You also need to be sure you are hooking it up to an ignition switch and not a constant I usually use the radio fuse in the fuse box.
The fuse is generally located on the bottom of the chassis of the microwave. You have to remove the outer cover on a counter top model - or the front panel assembly on an over-the-range model.
There are several reasons why it may blow.
If the fuse is loose in the holder, the fuse and the holder should both be replaced. If - with the microwave disconnected from the wall - you can easily turn the fuse with your fingers while it's in the holder, then it's too loose.
What happens is the loose connection generates too much heat, causing it to melt internally. If so, you'll usually see a ball of solder at a point where the cap meets the body of the fuse.
If the fuse blows as soon as you plug the oven in the wall, or when you open the door, the problem is likely with the door switches. You can find my files "doorsw.txt" and "safety'txt" via Google. They give you the safety warnings and cover the diagnosis and replacement of the door switches.
If the fuse blows as soon as you hit START, then it's likely that you have a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit START, then it's likely that you have an overheating / shorting high-voltage transformer.
If you still have a problem, please wirte back with more detail. Be safe!