I have is frost accumulating in the freezer section and not cooling the rest of the refrigerator, it works fine for a few days and then the cooling is not there and it does not make ice either. It is a GE TFX26KR side by side.

Since you stand to loose all the food I would call a service tech ASAP. But here are the most common reasons for the problem you have.
Cause 1
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
Cause 2
Evaporator Fan Motor The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

Most units have ONE COMPRESSOR which usually cools the FREEZER. Then, to cool the fridge area, there is a DUCT or ducts between the freezer and the fridge area to move some small amount of very cold freezer air into the fridge section. In the old days this occurred by convection, but most newer units have a small fan in the duct to more dependably move the air.

The run time of the compressor, and thus the temperature of the freezer is usually controlled by a THERMOSTAT [usually with numbers on the dial]. A second control [usually with the letters A, B, C, and sometimes even D] operates either a DAMPER in the duct, or controls the duration of fan operation in order to control the temperature in the fridge section.

Under certain conditions of higher humidity, FROST [fine ice crystals] can build up in the duct, and on the fan if there is one, reducing or totally blocking the cold air flow from the freezer to the fridge section.

From your description of the freezer working well, but the fridge section being "warm" suggests that blockage of the duct is what has happened. However, there are a couple of other possibilities:

1. You inadvertantly moved the fridge control to a warmer setting,
2. You inadvertantly placed something in the freezer and/or fridge which BLOCKED the entrance or exit of the duct,

IF one of the above are the cause, a "manual" defrost of a few hours with the freezer and fridge doors open to allow warmer air in should melt out any frost/ice from the duct and allow the system to work properly. Depending on the severity of the frost/ice buildup, it could take a couple of days to fully melt all the frost/ice.

During the manual defrost ALL frozen and perishable foods should be temporary stored in an ice chest or cooler of some kind.

One more thing, in addition to heavy humidity, frost/ice buildup can also be caused by a defective automatic DEFROST TIMER. IF the system does not do its regular defrost cycle [usually an hour or two once in each 24 hours], then frost/ice buildup can occur even with "normal" humidities.

So, once you have the system back in operation, watch for the normal cycling of the defrost program, and if the problem continues, contact a qualified refrigeration repair technician to repair or replace the defrost TIMER.

Hi,

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heatman101

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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Hi: Is your freezer so full it's blocking the vents? If so unblock the vents. If not put your food in a cooler, frozen and fresh. Unplug your refrigerator. Take a hair dryer to the back of the freezer to melt frost accumulated behind the panel. I know it's supposed to be frost free. You have a problem with the defrost heater or the timer. The frost is blocking the vents. Most likely it is the later, but if you see no frost it could be the circulating fan. The location of these will be in your parts list. Kenmore still gives these with their products. If you don't have it go to sears.com and use parts direct. They will have a diagram. I hope this helps, Jeff By the way, If you are not handy just do the hair dryer thing and it will work for a weed or two until the frost plugs it up again.

you must not be getting any air flow into the refr section. make sure the fan is running and if so then you may have a defrost problem. look at the freezer section rear panel, if it has heavy frost on it then it is not defrosting properly. there are a few problems that could cause a defrost issue. defrost heater, thermostat, or timer/control board. most likely the defrost thermostat.
if it is frosted over, then shut off the unit and get ready to catch the extra water that will run onto the floor, after a full day turn it back on and if it cools, you will know that you are not defrosting. it will work ok until it frosts over again, in about 2 weeks. then you will need to find out which part is bad causing the no defrost.

check for a door gasket problem on one of the doors if it is not sealeing all the way you will get moisture in the fresh foor section and additional forst in the freezer

Ok the freezer section works the refrig section think of the refrigerator as a large cooler with an inlet and outlet hole cold air is blown into the refrig from the freezer via the fan motor in the freezer the really cold air comes in the top of the refrig and drops to the bottom of the refrig then it is sucked back into the freezer thru a vent hole in the bottom of the refrigerator ..GOT IT?? Now when a unit has a defrost problem there is an ice or frost build up in the freezer on the coil (bad heater,bad bi metal, bad timer can cause this) the ice builds and builds to the point where it blocks the air flow across the coil hence the air can not get to the refrigerator section making it warmer but the freezer section will work ok .. I hope this makes sense...Hint : A sign of this is a lg frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer.

Have you noticed more frost in the freezer than usual? It sounds like you may have moisture building up and freezing around evaporator fan. The fan blade hitting ice will cause the buzzing until it stops it completely or the evaporator clogs with frost and blocks airflow. If you have frost on food in freezer, check the door seals and make sure nothing is keeping doors from closing completely if you release them about 6" from cabinet.

You most likely have an automatic defrost problem. When one of more of the defrost components fails, frost accumulates behind the freezer wall and restricts airflow to the fresh food side. You will still generate cold into the freezer section but will have virtually no cold to fresh food side. If it is a few years old it is most likely the defrost heater which is defective. Replace the defrost thermostat (bi-metal) as well.