Question about Gladiator 19 cu. ft. Chillerator Garage Refrigerator

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My refrigerator compartment is not cooling, but the freezer seems ok so far, at below zero temp. I thought the default is that both compartments are default freezer mode, and the upper compartment's temp is tempered with the dial in the back to make it a fridge. How can this be?

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You may be experiencing these problems because of a defective defrost timer, a defective defrost heater or a defective defrost thermostat.

1.- TES DEFROST TIMER

  1. Locate your defrost timer. It can be located behind the refrigerator's lower kickplate, in the refrigerator's control panel, or even behind the refrigerator on its back wall. Defrost timers almost always have four metallic terminals extending from the bottom. Once you have found your refrigerator's defrost timer, remove it for testing.
  2. A defrost timer is usually secured inside a refrigerator with at least one screw, but sometimes more. Remove all the screws you find and pull the timer carefully out of the refrigerator. Pull it out far enough so that you can disconnect its wires. Pull firmly on the wire's connectors to remove them. You may need to rock them back and forth a little to ease the motion. Don't worry about which way the connector comes out because there is only one way it can go back in.
  3. Use your multitester to test the timer for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place one of the tester's leads on the coommon terminal. It should be labeled "3" or "C". If none of the terminals are labeled, you can locate the common terminal by determining which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug. With one multitester lead (probe) touching the common terminal, touch the other lead to the other three remaining terminals, one at a time. Testing the first pair should produce a reading of zero, or near zero, denoting continuity. The second pair may also result in a reading of zero or near zero. Testing the third pair of terminals should produce a reading of infinity.
  4. Find your refrigerator's timer switch and turn it in a clockwise motion until it clicks. Use your multitester and test the terminals again in the same manner as in the preceding paragraph. In this test, one of the pairs of terminals should produce a reading of continuity. At least one pair, but maybe two, should produce a reading of infinity. One important note to keep in mind is that a pair of terminals that demonstrated continuity in the first test should now demonstrate infinity. Likewise, a pair of terminals that demonstrated infinity in the first test should now demonstrate continuity.
  5. If the test you conduct with your defrost timer does not produce these results, then you should replace the mechaninsm.


2.- TEST DEFROST HEATER
  1. Locate your defrost heater. It can be located behind the back panel of the freezer section of your refrigerator, or under the floor of your refrigerator's freezer section. Defrost heaters are commonly located beneath a refrigerator's evaporator coils. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. Defrost heaters are available in one of three primary types: exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape, or a wire coil inside a glass tube. Each of these three types is tested in exactly the same way.
  4. Before you can test your defrost heater, you have to remove it from your refrigerator. A defrost heater is connected by two wires, and the wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly grasp these connectors and pull them off the terminals. You may need a pair of needle-nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  5. Use your multitester to test the heater for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place the tester's leads on one terminal each. This should produce a reading anywhere in between zero and infinity. If your multitester produces a reading of zero, or a reading of infinity, then your defrost heater should most definitely be replaced. There are many different kinds of elements, and so it is difficult to say what exactly the reading should be for your defrost heater. But it definitely should not be zero or infinity. If it is, replace the mechanism.


3.- TEST DEFROST THERMOSTAT
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

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Posted on Jun 03, 2010

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