Replaced convergence brd but now picture goes dark and audio stays on
I have peviously replaced my deflection brd and then i replaced the convergence board. The convergence brd fixed my convergence problem but only lasted one day. Now the picture goes dark but the audio stays on. I tried disconnecting the power from the convergence board but that didn't bring the picture back. It may be an overheating problem...the picture came back for about 20 minutes and then went out again. Any thoughts?
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Try removing the LVDS cable that goes to the Tcon board and see if the set stays on, you won't have picture but does the sound stay on...if it does then replace the Tcon board, the only one you haven't replaced it sounds like
Replace the deflection/power supply board and return the convergence board. There are probably bad soldering connection points all over the bottom of that board with the fly back transformer. Slight soldering skill required.
Yes, however I would be surprised if changing the two Ics will repair the set, as that chassis should always have the sub-deflection board replaced since most of the resistors will be stressed. Thats why samsung changed the later chassis's by removing the convergence circuits from the deflection board as its almost 98% certain that the deflection board will need replacement when the ICs fail with those chassis designs unless every component in the convergence circuit is replaced which will cost more than the deflection boards do. But you may get lucky but if the ICs dont cure the problem you will need a new deflection board
Resolder the flyback, as thats what takes out those components if the solder is defective. Try resoldering the flyback. If the set powers up but convergence is off the FL231 has blown again due to the flybacks solder joints
If you occasionally have a picture then you stand a good chance of repairing this tv. There are bad grounds on the deflection board. Start with the board that has the flyback. I do not know the year of your tv. Sometimes the same model may have an option improvement than one couple of months earlier. The first suspected problem would be the vertical IC. In some cases this ic is located on the convergence board and in others the flyback board. It has seven pins and is the TDA version. Located on a large heatsink. Resolder this and any other grounds on both board. Some will tell you the P I P board is bad. This is a free standing board that can be removed and replaced. But please do the earlier option first.
the problem is not to do with the deflection! it is still working if you are seeing a picture, it is the power supply for the convergence. it isn't working at this time. it is usually a smaller separate pcb
if this supply isn't working the picture looks wacked. rca's seldom have an issue with convergence and are made better than most you will notice the heat sinks for the convergence output that are discreet and will outlast many other brands that use chips.put a dvm on the output of the supply to confirm. if power is there then the seldom problematic outputs is to blame.
you have the ATC311 chassis. do this proceedure and you can track down where the problem is. let me know if you need more assistance. i can also post a link where you can get the training manual at a cheap cost emailed to you if you would like a copy.
5. Apply AC power and press power button.
6. If LED turns on and then off, disconnect J11501 (Audio CBA) and press power
button again. If power LED comes on and stays on suspect Audio CBA. If LED
still flashes or does not light go to step 7.
7. Disconnect J26903 (AV IN CBA) and press power button again. If power LED
comes on and stays on suspect AV IN CBA. If LED still flashes or does not
light go to next step.
8. Disconnect J19500 (Convergence CBA) and press power button again. If
power LED comes on and stays on troubleshoot the Convergence CBA. If
LED still flashes or does not light go to next step.
9. Disconnect J14801 (Deflection CBA) and press power button again. If power
LED comes on and stays on suspect Deflection CBA. If LED still flashes or
does not light suspect DM2 module.
Replace the convergence IC`s again using original Sanyo chips (STK 392-110 or STK 392-180). Make sure to use plenty of heat sink compound. Coat the entire back side of the chips. Also look to see if any of the low ohm resistors are burned. A shorted chip will cause the thumping sound and the set will shutdown. I am guessing that you used generic IC`s as a replacement. They are cheap and the leggs fall off when you apply too much heat during soldering. Dont wory about the CRT driver or the deflection board, they are probably fine.