I wouldnt use that generic if i were you. i would go out and get a high low capacitor and hook it up behind ur head unit. then u can run ur rcas back to youre amp asnd turn on ur hpf. and ull get all highs and no lows
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An opamp is an operational amplifer. The OPA134 is a single amplifier with differential inputs. The best way to describe this IC is that it is an ideal amplifier with infinite gain, with high input impedance and low output impedance making it both a voltage and current amplifier. The output signal is divided with resistors and provides feedback to the minus input to inject negative feedback. The ratio of this feedback basically determines the final gain. The input signal may go to the positive input for a non-inverting amplifier or to the negative input for an inverting amplifier. Roughly the voltage gain in dB will be 20 x log of Vout/Vin. There is a difference in the gain of 1 between inverting and non-inverting for accuracy sake, but that is the basics.
This particular part is very high quality in performance and should be replaced with the equivalent part or one from Burr-Brown. The power supply is typically +/- rails and ground is usually the virtual point between the split supplies representing 0V. Sometimes the input signal will not be referenced to ground and will be fed to both the plus and minus inputs which will be balanced (impedance wise) to form a differential input that rejects common signals such as noise. Pretty cool device, I couldn't live without them. OPA134 Precision Amplifier Operational Amplifier Op Amp Technical documents
Is EVERYTHING in this scenario new (unknown functionality)?
You don't say what the result of the tone check was, nor do you identify the sub.
If your unnamed sub uses Line Level inputs just run one of the AVR's Tape Out's to it to prove the sub works. IT WILL BE LOUD since no volume control is in line with generic Line Outs. If it uses speaker level input, just run a speaker pair to it from the front channel. THEN you will know in which direction to proceed.
U have some skills like take things aparts and putting it back together again?Yes?The tv Tuner signal board have problems,might even be the CPU itself have some kind of shorts.The Tuner signal board,that the board,where the incomming broadcasting signal wire plug into it.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish Tuner signal board for the replacement.
hello,,,open the back cover of your tv check the power supply section .to identify the power supply section ,it is the pcboard where the ac main supply is connected..there is a connector there that is connected to tha cpu board....resolder the terminal of the connector and tighten the connectors same to the other end..2nd the supply of the inverter board..resolder the terminals and tighten the connectors...the inverter board is the board where the backlights are connected .power supply of the backlights...be carefull it is a high voltage section..its input voltage is from 12vdc - 24 vdc.output is 300 up vac...back light is the bulbs that illuminates the screen of the tv...when it is busted your screen will appear black..
It sounds like you have lost a ground connection, It is possible this is in your connections to the input such as your input leads to the amplifier. Check very carefully the shield or negative connection at both ends of your leads (it could even be the brand or construction of the connector itself as some connectors use a mechanical joint between where the negative and ground is connected and the part that makes contact with the amps input terminals).
If this is not the problem, the next most likely is that an internal amplifier ground has been lost - this can happen if the speaker positive makes contact with the amplifiers input socket. You should use a multimeter to measure continuity between speaker negative terminal and the input ground terminal - this should read 10 ohms or less, if not you could open the amplifier and look for damaged cct board tracks etc.
If the problem has developed slowly (over weeks) you could be looking at faulty capacitors in various parts f the powersupply and main amplifier boards - replacing these is indicated if the amp is over 10 years old and or has been used in confined spaces allowing high ambient temperatures to occur.
The pb180 has High Input receptacles on the back end. They are marked High Input and identified as Channels 1&2 left/right, and channels 3&4 left/right. You will need to identify all speaker wires coming from your head unit ( left front +&--) , and so on. You will be sending the speaker wires from the head unit to the pb180's High Inputs. In other words, the front left speaker wires(+&-) from the head unit will go to the High Input Channels 1&2 side, left input of the pb180, and so on, so the speaker wires coming out of the head unit will need to be cut. And LABEL all sets of speaker wiresbefore you cut them! Then on the OUTPUT end of the pb180, you will be sending the wires back to the the respective speaker wires which are going to the speakers. So it's out from head unit to pb180 and out from pb180 to speakers.
Hopefully you have the plugs that Pyramid uses for the speaker wire inputs to the amp. If not you have to get creative, and make up terminals to fit into the input receptacles. Maybe a wire terminal from Radio shack will fit those pins..
Also, if you go on line: Google search "Pyramid auto amps" and click on "SEARCH" (upper right hand) of their Web Page. Plug in your model number like this, pb180, and you'll be able to download the manual for this amp. The manual has a full description of the wiring options.
Your problem is quite simple. The low input is for feeding a lead straight from the output of your receiver IE sub out and the high input is for connecting the sub directly to your speaker output where the alternative is not possible. Hope this helps
hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the heater relay causes high current draw and damages the terminals on the heater relay on the main control board. check it out.. thank u.. kindly rate my response..