I wouldnt use that generic if i were you. i would go out and get a high low capacitor and hook it up behind ur head unit. then u can run ur rcas back to youre amp asnd turn on ur hpf. and ull get all highs and no lows
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This may sound dumb, but are there any other inputs left on the amp? Most amps that i have worked with have a special set of inputs for high input. (by high input you mean speaker level right?) If those exist the obvious answer is to use those. They should be labeled, so just hook them up according to them. You may need a special adapter from the amp manufacturer. If you dont have any high level inputs or any not broken inputs left you have two options. You can either A: junk the amp or B: open it up and solder new connectors back on. (it sounds harder than it really is. There are four large pieces of metal to solder onto the board for a set of inputs)
You did not specify exactly which Jensen amp you have. None of the Jensen PowerPlus series I found had high-level inputs. You can go here and select your amp to download the manual. They should also have the connector for speaker inputs.
Most amps that have both high-level and RCA inputs allow you to use one or the other, but not both at the same time. If your head unit has RCA ourputs, those would be the ones to use, because they generally provide a cleaner signal to the amp with less noise.
If you are not getting sound from any of the 4 channels, I'd suspect that either the amp is not getting an input signal or the amp itself is faulty.
Here's the "no sound" troubleshooting step-by-step procedure from the JL manual:
1) Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example; 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 5.O-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
2) Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the Speaker Connector Plugs from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
3) Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the Speaker Connector Plugs. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 12 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside each terminal.
I am assuming the following: The Amp power is 1/0 gauge wire (huge) and runs directly to the fuse then to the battery + terminal, and you have a 1/0 gauge wire to an excellent ground. If you are missing any of these (esp the fuse) you are flirting with disaster. This Amplifier draws upwards of 100 Amps with a 1 ohm load! (If you are using this for competition you may also use a second battery to help dampen the noise, a high output alternator, and or a capacitor (which should be connected to the 4 gauge input terminals on your amp). I also assume that: When the engine isn't running the "humm" is not present, and when running if you remove the RCA connections from the AMP the noise should also go away. This amp has line level adaptability connecting speaker level inputs directly into the RCA terminals (you must set the "input sens" switch to "X10") ... so you may get rid of the PAC converter this may help get rid of the noise. For more info call MTX tech service at 800 CALL MTX. And please use ear protection at high levels ... trust me Tinnitus is no fun!
the rem wire is for switched power from your head unit usually most after market stereos(head units) have an output for the rem wire.......if not use the power antenna wire from the back of the radio (usually blue or blue white) as for the input you need to use one or the other low or phono Hope this helps..Good Luck!
sounds like a typical case of poor conections causing the amp to fail... take the cover off of the amp. Inspect where the terminal blocks meet the circuit board. SOmetimes you can repair it sometimes its just too far fried..
Jensen is under different ownership from when your amp was made, so it's unlikely that you'll find a replacement plug for the high-level input.
A high-low converter is also called a line-out converter. It's a device that connects to the speaker wires and changes the signal to a low-level RCA connection. This allows you to use the amp's RCA plugs with your speaker wiring (through RCA signal cables).
A line-out converter should be available any place that sells car audio accessories.