Question about Verona BIG24 Gas Single Oven

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After pushing electronic ignition, holding it in to warm up and then it shuts off right awaqy when setting the temperature. This unit is a Verona BIG24 gas single wall oven. I think it is the thermocouple

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  • 56 Answers

Sound like the thermal coupling

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

  • flamtech Feb 19, 2011

    it's thermocouple, but not necessarily broken. hold it 10 secs and see.

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Dbl Wall Oven 790.4777.3400 Top Mount begins to heat but then shuts off like the cancel was pressed. Replace thermostat, overload, control panel, and control board. Any other ideas?


The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Mar 16, 2014 | Kenmore 47772/47774/47779 Electric Double...

1 Answer

How do you change the key pad from celcius to ferenhite on my whirlpool acubake oven


Look for the button marked "Precise Clean" in the upper left corner of the control panel.

Press and hold this button for five seconds until the display reads "Temperature Unit Celsius.

Release the button and push it again for another five seconds until the display shows "Temperature Unit Fahrenheit."

Push the "Off/Cancel" button to lock in the Fahrenheit setting.


Jul 10, 2011 | Whirlpool SB160PEE Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Control panel is stuck on 5Ab


Sabbath Mode.
To
provide sabbath feature (or to cancel this setting):
1. Push the PREHEAT pad and set the oven
temperature to 500°F/260°C or more using the UP
ARROW pad.
2. Push the PREHEAT pad within the next 2 seconds
for 3-4 seconds. A beep sounds and a number
appears in red to the right of the display. For the
conversion, "3" must be displayed. If another number
is displayed, push the PREHEAT pad and select
"3".
3. Push the UP or DOWN ARROW pad to change
from 12 hour to 9999 in the display, for no 12 hour
shut-off.
4. Push the CANCEL pad to confirm your choice.

Other Displays:
When proceeding through steps 1 and 2 in the
Temperature Scale Conversion or in the elimination
of the Sabbath feature /12-hour Shut-off time limit,
two other words can be seen in the display. One is ESC
with O in red. It cannot be changed. The other is USE or
SALE with 3 in red. This one is for factory use and should
stay on USE.

May 16, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I wanted to change the time hour. I pushed clock and up arrow at a time and the clock is showing 5 AB. The screen is frozen. I can't use any options. How could I get it back to normal? Thank you for your...


To
provide sabbath feature (or to cancel this setting):
1. Push the PREHEAT pad and set the oven
temperature to 500°F/260°C or more using the UP
ARROW pad.
2. Push the PREHEAT pad within the next 2 seconds
for 3-4 seconds. A beep sounds and a number
appears in red to the right of the display. For the
conversion, "3" must be displayed. If another number
is displayed, push the PREHEAT pad and select
"3".
3. Push the UP or DOWN ARROW pad to change
from 12 hour to 9999 in the display, for no 12 hour
shut-off.
4. Push the CANCEL pad to confirm your choice.

Other Displays:
When proceeding through steps 1 and 2 in the
Temperature Scale Conversion or in the elimination
of the Sabbath feature /12-hour Shut-off time limit,
two other words can be seen in the display. One is ESC
with O in red. It cannot be changed. The other is USE or
SALE with 3 in red. This one is for factory use and should
stay on USE.

Nov 20, 2010 | Magic Chef 9112 Gas Double Oven

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

Sep 04, 2009 | Frigidaire 30 in. Electric Gallery Series...

1 Answer

Gas self cleaning 30 range. In bake mode does not heat as hot as before, takes longer to bake items.


  • When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more precisely locate the defect.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this type of unit, you must replace the sensor.

    On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.
  • Aug 14, 2009 | Ovens

    1 Answer

    Kenmore double oven flashing "door locked"


    All F3-E Codes - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).


    Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

    Jul 16, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

    1 Answer

    There is no gas going to my oven. Only the


    hello, i can help you. first of all, if the broiler works then you must have gas coming into the stove. as far as getting to the gas line, it is in the rear of the stove. typically you have to pull out the stove to get to it. that said, here are some things to consider.

    Not all gas ranges/ovens require electricity. If yours has a clock, electronic igniters, self-cleaning, or any other electrical features, the unit needs electricity to work properly. Check to see whether there's power getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

    It won't bake If your oven won't bake, check these:

    Bake igniter
    Other causes
    Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

    The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

    Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

    • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

    • The thermostat is defective.

    • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

    • The selector switch is defective.

    It bakes poorly Here are two instances of when food "bakes poorly:"

    • When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more precisely locate the defect.

    • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this type of unit, you must replace the sensor.

      On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.


    Jun 22, 2009 | Ovens

    2 Answers

    Whirlpool Accubake Super Capacity 465 gas range. Oven won't light


    Some gas ranges may take 10 or so minutes to light.
    Other than that you may have a defective glow bar ignitor.
    If it glows and does not light the reistance in the ignitior has failed.

    Feb 25, 2009 | Ovens

    2 Answers

    Warming up problem


    This has nothing to do with the element. This oven should only be serviced by a qualified technician. If you were one, you would already know the solution. You need to go into diagnostic mode to determine if it is the solid state relay or the cc thermocouple. After resetting the hi-limit more than once, it will also need to be replaced.

    Aug 24, 2007 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

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