I have a 1982 Mitsubishi Lancer SL 1982. Just had top overhaul because of white smoke problems. But after top overhaul ,now it has low power and hesitation when accelerating. Spark plugs, distributor all has been replaced. Exhaust headers okay with no leak. Timing was done 3 times by different mechanics. The car billowed white smoke when going uphill . What else could be wrong? Could it be the Carb? Or the radiator? These are the only 2 components not yet checked.

SOURCE: Hesitation during aceleration

You may have a vaccume leak

SOURCE: why does my car loose power going uphill

YOU COULD HAVE CLOGGED FUEL FILTER AND FUEL INJECTORS.ALSO CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID.IF LOW TRANSMISSION WILL SLIP GOING UP HILL.NOT ENOUGH FLUID TO BUILD UP PRESSURE FOR OVER DRIVE.

Testimonial: "Thanks alot for ur response i hope thats the problem and nothing bigger"

SOURCE: ok i recently changed spark

Did you mean coil the 1994 3.1 did not use a distributor , sounds like a bad coil pack and cylinders #3 and #6 do use the same coil. I would also check 3 and 6 plug wires this system is a waste spark design meaning when # 3 coil fires it is supposed to go through #3 plug wire , through #3 plug ( ground) through the engine block through the #6 plug then through the #6 wire then back to the coil, Then when #6 fires it works the opposite way, so in theory you could have one bad wire affecting 2 cylinders .....

SOURCE: Engine on my 93 Buick LeSabre surges and cuts out

Hi,

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The steps I'm going to outline are the same as we use in my shop for hesitation, sag and stumble.

All of the tools required can be borrowed from AutoZone at NO COST!

Sensors:

The sensors can be checked with an OBD-II code scanner borrowed from AutoZone. Pay special attention to an TP (Throttle Position) warnings. The sensor can be manually checked for binding or sticking.
Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) found near the firewall and screwed into the exhaust manifold for signs of corrosion on the threads. That will cause a faulty ground.


Fuel System:

• Check the fuel pressure with that fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. You reading should be 40-45 PSI and holding steady.
• Contaminated fuel is a constant problem and if the pressure does not hold steady, replace the fuel filter.

Additional Checks:

• Make certain that the engine thermostat is functioning and is the correct temperature.
• Make certain that the alternator voltage output is not less than 9 volts nor more than 17 volts.

Here's a little general information that will assist you in comprehending the readouts from the code scanner. This is simply for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide (This doesn't necessarily pertain to you but it's useful to know)

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason you should repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

Unfortunately, space does not permit me to guide you through the remedy for every code. However, the Wells Company offers extensive code diagnosis application information and technical support via its Tech Line at 1-800-558-9770, as well as in-depth product and repair videos at www.repairpath.com (use my personal access code carrepair) and through the "Wellstech" channel at www.YouTube.com

Ben

SOURCE: Hesitation on acceleration

Most common problem is a failed mass airflow sensor. Remove sensor and carefully inspect the sensor for debris building up on the diode. Another possibility is the egr valve may be partially stuck open. The upper intake manifold is made of plastic. The egr gases enter the intake just behind the throttle body inside the plastic intake. It is pretty common for the hot exhaust gases to burn through the plastic and possibly cause coolant to enter combustion chambers. A restricted catalytic convertor from previous engine misfires will accelerate this due to exhaust gases having no place to escape.