Compressor does not come on but the fan inside and outside is working well,the lights every thing else is working, but the compressor.i am at a loss as to what to do.i am thinking of replacing the main computer board.the part #on the board is 200D4854G013 ; the model# on the board is 0158-00-04 what i need is a web site where i can purchase this board.
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Re: my refrigerator compressor does not come on
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
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You have not mentioned the year, make, and model of the refrigerator, however, I hope this might help you.
The reason it is not cooling is the compressor has not kicked on. The job of the fan is distribute the air inside the refrigerator, or to cool the compressor if the fan is outside and underneath the refrigerator.
You may have a problem with a "Klix-on".
This is a switch that is mounted right on the outside of the compressor that tells it to "start".
The "Klix-on" can be alone, but most often is part of a 2 piece set, that is about the size of a small fist or a 4 ounce can of tomato sauce,
Take the panels off the bottom of the refrigerator and with a small light, find the "Klix-on" underneath it, and tap it with a hammer lightly. If the compressor then kicks on, you have found your problem.
I just replaced one and it cost me $ 40 for a new one.
God bless your efforts.
The refrigeration is short cycling. The cause may be due to airflow problem. There is an outside fan thalt blows across a radiator and another in the inside the fridge enclosed behind panels.
These two fans must run and blow across the refrigeration radiators. The outside one can clog with lint and dirt, the inside one can clog with ice buid up, or the fans simply quit working. Check that the fans run and that the radiator coils are clean and clear to airflow. For the outside one, paneling will need to be removed, as well for the inside one if the outside one does not do the trick.
The refrigerator compressor short cycles because it overheats. The cool refrigeration gas entering the compressor cools it and when the gas is not kept cool, the compressor may short cycle.
There may be a different problem but checking for airflow is a start.
Does the compressor run? Does the small tube get warm? is the inside fan working? does it have an outside condensor fan? Is power getting through the thermostat due to gnats between the contacts? Does the inside light work? need more info.
Hello, if the inside fan was not running then the evaporator coil cannot absorb enough heat to vaporize the refrigerant, and the suction line will freeze including the compressor. Liquid refrigerat instead of vapor passes thru the suction line into the compressor. Lack of airflow or a low refrigerant charge is what will cause the line to freeze. In your case it was no airflow
You have to remember that sub zero has two independent compressors and evaporators so the freezer is fine. Focus on the fridge part. Here are some things you want to look at. 1) When you open the door, press the light switch and the fan switch, Does the fan run, it should. 2) Take the grate down that covers the compressors. The fridge is usually on the right as your looking at it. Is it running, hot or cold. If its running and hot, that's normal. If its hot and not running, you can tell by if its vibrating, you may have to turn the freezer off to prevent outside vibration. If its not running that means you more than likely have a bad compressor. If its cold and the fan inside didn't come on then the thermostat is bad inside the machine.
I looked up your model. This is a self defrosting model which features a fan motor for the compressor and the evaporator. If either of them 2 fans is out then the freezer won't work well. That is the first thing I would check. If only one of the fans is gone out then replace that fan and rock on. If Both fans and compressor are not working then hunt down the timer. It may be stuck in defrost mode. The timer is nestled up behind the cold control and light bulb inside the nice little console in the fresh food compartment. Look under the console for a hole about the size of a dime. Inside that hole a timer advance. Use a flat blade screwdriver to advance the timer till you hear the compressor and fans come on. If the timer is fine the next thing to look for is ice buildup inside the evaporation compartment. If you see that then the defrost heater and termination thermostat needs to be replaced. If both fans operate ok but the compressor is not working then I would remove and inspect the compressor relay for wear. The cold control would be the next thing to take a look at. If it is open the compressor and fans will not run but the inside light will work.
Several things can cause this to happen. The most common is low refrigerant due to a leak. If the inside fan comes on with the outside fan, then the thermostat is probably OK. There's not a lot that you can check without freon gauges, an electrical test meter and a freon leak detector. The compressor is interlocked by the circuit board with a low refrigerant switch and a thermal compressor switch. Again, it is difficult to diagnose this until low refrigerant is ruled out. Take heart, if it is a leak, they can usually be found and repaired for not too much.
Best regards, --W/D--
First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you
do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned
on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board
assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is
running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items
to look for to check out your compressor:
Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start
components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to
ground and across to each other.
If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor
if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words
everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the
compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem
solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically
inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace
the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And
about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other
1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from
a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
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