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Wf320 Thanks for the answer. I've tested the heater element and it is isolated from earth and reads 30 ohms between terminals. Could it be the stat thats at fault?

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I would go for a insulation test then at the stage that you gave in your description it sound like itis the heater because it does cut in at that time noffie........

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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How to check the heating elements in GE harmony dryer


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How do I check my hot water element?


1)Locate the upper heating element in the top access. The heating element is above the thermostat, and all you will see is a round disc with two wires attaching to the disk.
  • 2)Set your ohm meter to the X1 or RX 1 scale to measure the continuity of the heating element. Touch each of the ohm meter probes to each of the terminal screws on the heating element. A positive reading indicates a good element. If there is no reading, the element is faulty.
  • 3)Test for a possible short in the heating element with the ohm meter. Touch one ohm meter probe to one of the heating element terminals. Touch the other ohm meter probe to the bracket that secures the heating element. If you get a reading of zero, the element is good. If there is any positive reading on the scale, the element is grounding itself and will require replacement.
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    NType your problem for a solution...need to access the heater element to test


    not to familier with your washer but you have to take the back off and then you should see the heater at the bottom of the drum with wires on take the wires off make sure you mark them get a muti meter set it on ohms test across the two terminals you should get a reading if not the heater has gone and try it from one terminal to earth on cabinet you should not get a reading if you do its faulty

    Dec 01, 2011 | Miele Novotronic Premier 500 Front Load...

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    I have a GE DWSR405EBWW Electric dryer. It stays hot after completeing cycle (coils still energized). I opened the unit and coil doesn't look visually broken or grounded. 3 thermostats, 1 is a 4...


    Hello,
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    As far as the t-stats 2 of them should have zero ohms and the one w/4 terminals the two larger outer ones should be zero ohms the two smaller inner ones will have somewhere between 100-1000 ohms what the smaller one is a heater inside of the t-stat so when set to delicate the t-stat heater heats the t-stat so it trips sooner on the low heat setting since it(t-stat) gets hot sooner

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    Auto defrost is not working. How does the system work and how can I diagnose what part is at fault; heating element, sensor, control unit, etc? I believe it has an electronic control unit and not a...


    Hello,


    there are 3 parts of the defrost system ill walk you through how to test them

    1) defrost heater..isolate wires to the heater and use multimeter set on ohms/continunity and check for continunity and appx. 30 or so ohms on the heater,
    if it has no contininity its defective

    2) defrost thormostat(clipped onto top of evaperator coil) to test it it must be cold so its best to test it when frost is built up on evap.coil,isolate the wires to it and check for contunity with ZERO ohms resistiance if it does not have contintunity (when cold) it is the problem

    3) defrost timer...unplug it and see the 3 terminals grouped together (disregard the one off by it self ) place meter lead on CENTER of the 3 grouped together and on one of the outside one and their should be be continunity with zero ohms resistiance,if not continunity switch lead to other outside terminal and ALWAYS on center on and check for continunity,if has contintunity turn the little different colored peice till it clicks and check for contintunity on center terminal and the outside one that didnt have have continunity before turning it till it clicked.if one side has continunity before clicking and other does side does not after clicking it the timer is bad

    electronic deforst control is very hard for the layman to check and must be assumed to be bad if both defrost heater and defrost t-stat are good

    Good luck and godspeed

    please give 4 thumbs up if this helps

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    Jul 27, 2011 | Refrigerators

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    Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


    in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

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    Test procedure for elements and thermostat


    Remove upper and lower access panels
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    Use ohm meter or continuity tester.
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    NOTE If tank is completely cold the upper stat will not switch off and wont send power to lower stat.
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    Error code F10 means common feed of heater or thermostat open circuit.
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    Plz rate my solution.
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