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Re: amp getting hot sound distorted fuses blown wires not...
Make sure that you have installed a wire fuse inbetween your battery and your amplifier that is the most common reason for blown fuses. without that extra fuse your amp is getting a non limited amount of power from the battery.
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What fuses are they? The whole reason a fuse blows is to protect that circuit from excessive amps that could blow components. Fuses blow for 2 reasons excessive draw on that circuit or a short to ground. You may have a wire rubbing and after a while it touches ground and that's when the fuse will blow. I've also seen it when a wire is touching something that gets hot. what happens is when the engine component gets hot it heats up the insulation on the wire and that is the short but after the engine cools down it goes back to norm.
Simply put, burned voice coil. Either too much power can do this or not enough power with distortion. solution- if the sound is clear then its too much power- turn the amp down. If the sound is distorted and raspy- its not enough power and your getting distortion-get bigger amp.
The thermal fuse should only be replaced if the dryer will not start If it starts the thermal fuse is good. If you touched the ignitor with your fingers it may have blown out. Open the dryer and check for voltage to the ignitor through the ignitor wires while the dryer is on. If you have no voltage check the hi-limit thermostat for continuity as well as the operating thermostat. Check the flame sensor for continuity while it is cold. If you have power to the ignitor place a clamp on amp meter on one ignitor wire and turn the dryer on. If you read 3 amps or less the ignitor is bad. If it reads the amps or more the gas valve coils are bad.
When speakers are wired in the wrong way the will do the "pushing out" you're describing. Basically the polarities have been reversed and if kept like this over a period of time will blow the speaker. Best thing to do is to disconnect the power by the negative on the amp and take out the fuse from the power supply. Check the wires running from the amp to the subs, negative to negative and positive to positive. I know it sounds basic but many people do mix it up! I would also check to see what channels the subs have been wired into?
Best way is to have one sub from channel 1 and the other sub from channel 2 for example. Or if its a bridged 4 channel amp, have 1 sub running from channel 1&2, and the second sub running from channel 3&4 still making sure of the polarities. Again this all depending what kind of amp and sub you have.
A 4 channel (bridged) 1000W amp. 250W max per channel or 500W per 2 channels! So if you have 2 500W subs, by connecting one to a single channel will decrease subs ability due to the lack of power supplied. However by combining 2 channels you optimize the output!
Once you know all your wiring from your amp to subs are ok/good connections/good wires etc you shouldnt have to "wiggle the wires" to get it to work as this is just a bad connection. Also ensure that no 2 wires are touching. Make sure that the master volume on the amp is turned down. You dont need this to be on loud at all, in fact far from it or you'll risk damaging both the amp and subs!
Sounds like there's a ground-out/short on that lead. Best bet is to trace the wire to see if there's a bare spot where it is touching another wire bald spot, or the car body. Also, is there any liquid getting to the fuse and container? If so, that might lead to the fuse blowing as well.
Where was the smell coming from? The amp or the sub?
Do you have an ohmmeter to check to see if the sub's voice coils are still intact? Can you try driving the subs with another source to verify they are ok? We need to eliminate the variables here.
If the subs are okay then it's obvious that the problem is in the amp. I'm not sure if there are any protection devices internal to the amp, but I am sure if you remove the cover from the amp and if it was amp that was producing the burnt smell, you'll have no trouble visually identifying where the problem is in the amp. Most likely you'll find a part that is discolored or black & burned.
Usually a smell like this from a solid state device indicates a component has been overheated and if run long enough in this condition will fail.
as far as it staying on it may have been wired to your hot unstead of your remote on your radio
when it runs wide open it gets hot
how are your gains
I have an alpine and I just hooked up jl 12 w3s and it kinda j did what yours did
it played.. hit hard then no subs.. my mids and highs platyed, but until I would turn off the car and restart the radio the subs immediately came on and the subs are only connected to this aplpine mrp m 650 amp
what speakers and what ohm did they wire it too?
i think my problem was I was overloading my amp feeding it a 2 ohm load or a one ohm load and it was shutting down my subs.. protectection I suppose?
These subs are dual voice coil I'm sure...make sure they are putting a 2 ohm load on the amp total, and also set your gain and frequency setting right. Set the frequency around 85 or 90, make sure the lo pass filter is on. Turn the gain ALL the way down and turn your stereo to the point right before your speakers distort....then slowly increase the gain until the subs are playing at full volume. This should not even be close to all the way up, and the subs should sound accurate and bold. Turning them past this point will cause distortion, in which case you should back off the gain a bit. Distortion causes power to cycle through the amp very rapidly and can cause blown subs and blown fuses.
If you do not know how to wire both subs for a combined load of 2 ohms, please let me know what type of subs you have.
amp naturally get hot but not hot enough to burn your finger.if all the speakers working,no distorted sound(sound clear),the problem might be the ventilation(free air flow) of amp.check the blower fan if working or check the exhaust holes maybe it is blocked.
here are the other reasons;
1.)speaker wires touched the chassis ground.
2.)mismatched speaker to amp impedance.
3)overdrive input or u tap low input(from amp)
to high output(of stereo)
4.)ur amp is out of bias.
u need an audio technician for this...
hope this help u...