Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off, be sure the pigtail is wired correctly to the back of the unit. Black and red to the outside terminals, white to the middle, green to the frame or cabinet (should be a green screw close-by). If that is ok, you probably have an issue with possibly a bad pigtail, bad outlet, wiring issue, or possibly a bad circuit breaker or breaker box. Probably going to be more of a electrical problem than a appliance problem. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.
I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.
In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
check the thermal limit on the side of the heater housing and the blower thermal on the blower housing
the emement limit is at the top of the blower housing and will have 2 red wires going to it
the blower limit will have blue wires going to it
withe the power cord unpluged, remove the wires to these two limits and with a meter on rx 1 ect. read across each of these if you do not get a meter fluctuation , all the way to the right as you check the part os bad
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
Regarding model LER5644EQ2, here is a link to a parts website complete with an assembly drawing and parts list. In all probability,you have a blown thermal fuse and that will need replacing http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Item #23 on the drawing .. a quick test would be to ( with power removed or disabled) measure the resistance across the two terminals and it should not be an open circuit or it is blown. The drawing shows exactly where it is and the parts list shows the item number/ cost and where to buy a replacement. Hope this helps..
Regarding model number is YLEQ5000PW1, you may have the same problem with your thermal fuse.. the parts website does not show a detailed darwing of your model but it should be similar to the other one I've cited in the location and thermal fuse.. The link I am sending is for the parts list for your washer and the thermal fuse.. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Let me know if that isn't the problem and we can look at other ways to zero in on a solution..
Hope this helps...
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
I posted today (Jan 2, 2009) that I had same problem. Handyman tested for blown thermal fuse, etc and everything was fine. He said I have to replace the timer switch .. well guess what - I fidgeted with the start button (on/off) hard a few times while simultaneously pressing & releasing door switch and it did the trick. In my case the problem was most likely with the start button. Dryer is working fine now!
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
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