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How do i get the clutch rotor assembly off - Garden

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The nut is reverse threaded. So tighten it to loosen it. Then pry it off with a flathead screwdriver or something like that.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

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In order to install a stator on a Harley. You have to disconnect the battery and remove the outer primary. Then you have to remove the primary chain assembly, the clutch and the compensator nut and ramps to get to the rotor. Once you remove the rotor you'll see the stator. Compensator nut is 150 ft/lb. The clutch is 45 ft/lbs. The comp nut is standard thread while the clutch basket nut is left handed threads.

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How do i replace the regulator & stator on a 92


There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
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Aug 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

MY REGULATOR/RECTERFIRE BURNT UP. IM LOOKING TO REPLACE THE WHOLE SYSTEM.WHAT AM I UP AGAINST WHEN I TAKE THE PRIMARY COVER OFF?


You'll have to take the compensator sprocket nut off and the clutch assembly off along with the primary chain. The compensator nut is quite large and on very tight, 150 Foot Pounds fo torque. To get the clutch off, remove the snap ring and take the clutch adjuster plate out. There is a nut in the hole that has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take this nut off and the nut on the primary chain adjuster. Then. take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all at once. You'll have to pull the rotor off to get to the stator of the alternator. This can be difficult due to the strong magnets in it. I use two long bolts and insert them in the holes on the rotor. Squeeze the ends together and pull the rotor off. There is a special tool for this but it's not necessary.

Good Luck
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Jun 25, 2011 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXD - FXDI Dyna Super...

1 Answer

How do ichange my altanator


To change the stator in your alternator, you must first disconnect the battery. Then drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the compensator nut off the sprocket shaft and remove the nut on the primary chain adjuster. Then, remove the circlip that holds the clutch adjuster into the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has left-handed threads. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and remove these and the primary chain all at the same time. Behind the sprocket shaft extension is a shim or several shims, remove these and remember where the go. You'll see the rotor. It has two holes in it. Use some long bolts that will go into the holes. Insert the bolts and squeeze them together. Pull the rotor off. It may be difficult to get off as it has very strong magnets in it but it will come off. Behind the rotor is the stator. Remove the four Torx bolts and the two small screws that hold the plug into the case. Remove the stator. Replace the stator and all the rest of the assembly is the reverse of the disassembly. The mainshaft nut (left-handed threads) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. The compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need a locking bar to prevent the engine from turning while applying torque to these nuts. Adjust the primary chain to have 3/4 to 7/8 inch up and down play with the engine cold. Replace the primary cover and add oil. If you are going to attempt to do this job, I'd strongly suggest you purchase a service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

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1 Answer

Where is the alternator on 883 sportster xl


It depends on what year model the Sportster is. Harley went to an alternator on the Sportster in late 1984. It was behind the clutch assembly with the outer clutch drum acting as the rotor. It stayed this way up until 1991 when they moved the stator and rotor up to the front of the engine like a Big Twin. It is now in the primary and driven off the engine sprocket shaft.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 26, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

Looking for step by step instructions on replacing a stator on a 2001 FXDWG


To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.

Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.

For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 24, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator


The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.

The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.

When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How do I remove the clutch rotor assembly on a ryobi 720r?


I have the same model, I inserted a large screwdriver on the inside to stop the rotor assembly from spinning, then I used a pipe wrench (but channel lock pliers would probably work better) and then w/o much effort, I easily turned the wrench counter clockwise to loosen.

May 01, 2010 | Ryobi Garden

1 Answer

How is the clutch rotor assembly removed from a ryobi 720r trimmer


on my 767r there are 4 cap head screws on a funnel shaped piece that connects the shaft to the engine. Once removed you'll have access to the clutch

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