Question about Jenn-Air JGR8850 Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Have a Jenn-Air JGR8850 oven which takes very long to heat up.

We have a Jenn-Air model JGR8850 oven (with convection). Over the last few weeks its been taking a very long time to come up to temperature (like 30 mins to come up to 400 deg). Tonite while trying to use it, we started smelling gas. Of course i turned it off and opened the windows.

Suggestions on what could be the problem? Valve or igniter?

The stove top (4) burners work just fine and plenty of gas pressure.

thanks

'mark

Posted by on

  • m_ahlenius Jun 02, 2010

    Hi,

    I know troubleshooting over email is sometimes a shot in the dark, but I'd like to know with a bit more certainty before I go and order an igniter if that's the problem. I'd like some help from someone familiar with this problem and model.

  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    FixAllPhil was a great help. He was very knowledgable answered all my questions. He went beyond the call to send me links to additional info which was very helpful

    Thanks a million!

    'mark

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 949 Answers

Hi Mark,

The symptoms you are experiencing are consistent with the hot surface ignitor getting weak.

This ignitor called a glow bar will increase it's resistance with age. With this higher resistance the current that goes to the gas valve for the oven is lowered, causing to open slower (hence the gas odor) and eventually not at all.

This can be verified with an amp probe on the ignition system. It should draw 3.2 amps for the gas valve to open. If an amp meter is not available you can actually swap the broil and bake ignitors as they are identical.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

  • 9 more comments 
  • m_ahlenius Jun 02, 2010

    Phil,

    this sounds helpful.

    How easy is it to replace this igniter?

    The only amp meter I have would have to be spliced inline (don't have a clamp on amp probe).

    Are there any instructions available online for replacing this module?

    thank you

    'mark


  • Philip Jun 02, 2010

    Hi Mark,

    I will attach an image that might help, but short of that I do not know of any step by step guide to replacing the ignitor. I will do my best to break it down for you, and let me know if you have questions. When I call out a number in () it refers to the image below.

    - Turn the power off or unplug the range.

    - Remove the racks and oven bottom

    - Remove wing nut (18) and shield (21)

    - The ignitor (9) is held on by 2 screws (7)

    - The ignitor should unplug and plug in the same as the old one.











  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    Phil,

    I picked up an igniter today ($80.00) but have not installed it yet. I took out the bottom plate of the oven and turned it on (Bake), The igniter glows red, but no gas flame after 1 minute or so.

    Since I don't have an amp probe, would you still think its the igniter? Or could it be the valve. If I install this igniter, I think I own it and can't return it.

    thanks

    'mark


  • Philip Jun 03, 2010

    Hi Mark,

    I do still think it is the ignitor, they do get weak, even when glowing it would be bad. It should light with in 90 seconds, you will see a difference in brightness between the bake and broil ignitors if one is weak and one is good.


  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    ok,

    finally got the ignitor free, I had to saw off one of the screws which was stripped.

    Do I need to take the plate off the bottom (beneath the burner) to get at the wiring? There's a piece of insulation in the hole where the burner pipe goes down (back of oven) - that's where the wires are.


    thank you



  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    my oven does not have the sheild with wing nut like in the drawing you sent yesterday. There's a bottom plate, with 4 screws. This plate is directly beneath the buner

  • Philip Jun 03, 2010

    Hi Mark,

    Here is a link to the service manual

    Service Manual

    On page 2-21 it shows the ignitor on page 2-23 you can see the plug for the ignitor in the center picture, it is a bit fuzzy but it the white plug next to the vertical burner pipe just to the left of the words 'Oven Valve'. You might be able to unplug it from the back and push it up through the burner hole, if you cant pull it from the top.


  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    Thanks for the manual, from the pictures I can't tell - do you have to pull the oven out from the wall and access the connector for the ignitor from the rear?

    I was hoping not to do that but repair it all from the front oven side.




  • Philip Jun 03, 2010

    I have never tired from just the front but you can try to take that bottom panel off and see if it gives you access. If that does not, try to pull up on the wiring enough to get to the plug and see if it will squeeze up beside the burner tube. You can also lift the burner out, just make sure if you do that when you put it back down it sits on the orifice hood of the valve.

  • m_ahlenius Jun 03, 2010

    Hi Phil,

    well for the record, pulling out the bottom drawer reveals a panel which covers the valve and burner pipe. Removing the 2 screws which holds that on, permitted me to unplug the connector for the igniter and fish the old wires up and the new igniter wires down.

    And you were right - the oven now works great.

    Thank you for ALL your help!

    'mark


  • Philip Jun 03, 2010

    Mark,

    You are welcome.

    I am happy things worked out good!

    FixAllPhil


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  • Master
  • 2,926 Answers

The valve is ok, that is why your able to smell the gas, the ignitor I suspect is defective.A common problem with convection ovens.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • m_ahlenius Jun 02, 2010

    Hi,

    a follow up couple of questions.

    1). how do I test the igniter?

    2). how easy is it to replace on this model (I'm a pretty technical guy, so no worries about abilities).

    3). Why would the oven be very slow to heat up? I am assuming that once the burner is lit, it stays lit. Today the thing took 30 minutes to reach temperature and I would imagine that it would stay on constantly (the burner) to do that.

    thx

    'mark


  • GetMeOttaHere Jun 02, 2010

    I assumed the ignitor was not operating due to the smaell of gas. To test it,you would have to watch it ignite the gas.Once it does,it will not ignite again until the flame is off, then ignite again to keep the temp steady.

    Replacement on your exact model I'm not 100 % sure, but I don kno these are serviceable parts and are not hard to replace.

    Perhaps the temp is taking a long time due to a defective temp sensor, causing the oven to take a long time to heat up?

    I had the same problem on my kitchen aid.

  • GetMeOttaHere Jun 02, 2010




    Bake igniter



    Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.



    The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.



    Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:



    The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).



    The thermostat is defective.



    The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.



    The selector switch is defective.



    It bakes poorly



    Here are two instances of when food "bakes poorly:"



    When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more precisely locate the defect.



    When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this type of unit, you must replace the sensor.

    On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.



    It won't broil.



  • GetMeOttaHere Jun 02, 2010




    If your oven won't broil, check these:



    Broil igniter



    Other causes



    Broil igniter



    Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broil igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.



    The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace the igniter or the safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.



    Other causes



    Other reasons that your oven may not broil are:



    The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).



    The thermostat is defective.



    The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.



    The selector switch is defective.

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