Question about Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner
Check fan motor if ok see if mice ruined duct work or dump out on bottom of unit is open
Posted on Sep 15, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ROOF AC UNIT ISSUES
Ice on the coil is caused by 3 things; 1, low freon charge. 2, inadequate air flow across the coil, this can be a filter or dirty coil (I think you addressed these) or the fan isn't blowing enough air over the coil. 3, the unit is running continuously. A heat pump has another cause, that is something defective in the defrost system, like the sensor, reversing valve, control board or relay. If the breaker is tripping its because the compressor is over amping. There can be an obstruction blocking the fan or something like #2. Or the compressor is going out. If the breaker doesn't trip on other settings, like cool, but trips on heat, then I would look at the airflow.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
SOURCE: Recharge My AC Unit
The system needs to be accessed through what is call a tap valve. After a tap valve is in place a high vacuum should be pulled on the system down to 500 microns to remove air and non condensible gases along with any moisture from the system. Then the charge should be weight into the system according to the name plate with the proper type of refrigerant, generally Refrigerant 22. An alternate method is to charge the system by superheat of the gas returning to the compressor. Ambient temperature determines how high or low the superheat should be.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
First of all, Shut off power to A/C unit. !! Next,You need to remove the filter /cover ceiling assy, and with a flashlight, look way up inside and you'll see the cooling fins etc, that look similar to the back of the AC on the roof. If they appear dusty/dirty, then they need to be cleaned. I use a shop vac with a couple of extra extensions to reach, and duct tape a pot scrubber brush (half round or round with nylon bristles) to the extension. Then start as high as you can get on the fins, and come straight down, kind of like combing the fins, but not pressing super ******* them. Move over, and down again, until you get them all, or at least as much as you can. (Thats basically the same as your return air at home) I use the nylon scrubber because the brush attachment with vacuum is usually softer bristles, and doesn't get in there as well. If yours does, great.Make sure you wash out your foam filter in a little dish soap & water before you put inside cover/filter back up. Now to the best part, The upper unit on the roof. You need to remove the plastic cover, by removing the 4 screws holding it on, or if it's dometic type, screws all around near the bottom of the cover, and lift it off. The front of the colemans have a lip that the cover is down over, so you may have to pull cover forward & up, then it should all lift up & off. Here's a spot to be real careful, and ready for wasps & bees. Very few, if any that I've done over the years, haven't had a bees or wasps nest under them, so if you can do it on a cloudy day, or at least be ready to move quick, and have a wasp blaster spray with you, it may be smart. Just don't forget your on a roof when you start moving !! Another thing to remember too, is that the roof can be very slippery when wet, or dew is on it, so watch out!! Be careful !! Now with cover off, look at the fins on back of the unit, and clean those the same way, or spray with a garden hose, and soft brush, and clean them up. Next, look at the opposite side of those coils/fins, where the fan blade is in front of it, and lightly wash it down as best as you can with the hose, spray nozzle, and a brush if possible. Remember when using brush, up & down as much as possible, to avoid bending the fins over. If you can't brush it , just spray it as good as you can, to clean it. Water should not enter trailer, unless maybe if you go overboard with spray, and pressure. If you have access to an air-line to use up on the roof, that's good to, but a lot of times, the water will wash it down better. This will more than likely cure your problem, if you get it cleaned out. At the RV resort where I work as a Technician, we usually have a flat rate of approx. $50 CDN. for me to do it for you. 95% of the time it cures the early cut-out of compressor, and people actually report it cools better than it has for a couple of seasons. It has to be clean to do it's job properly. When those areas are dirty, the upper unit (compressor etc) has to work so hard to cool, it overheats & cuts out, until compressor cools down a bit, then comes back on, until it heats up too much again, and kicks out again. That's why it doesn't do it as much in cooler times, because compressor doesn't get as hot. Your also shortening the life of your unit too.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Does water drip out of unit on the roof while running ? If you look under the unit on the roof, you should see one or two little drains sticking down., that may be plugged up. Piece of wire or something and poke in the holes on the sides of those drains to make sure they're clear. Usually there is a plastic/nylon pan on roof unit to catch that moisture, and drain it off. Could be overflow because of the plugged drains, or I have seen the odd one crack but not too much recently, mostly back 5 yrs ago or so they had a run of them.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Actually thats a, Great Idea. And far Less Expensive.
1: The only thing i suggest is, Remember that a "Thermostats" Job is to Sense when the Temperature in the room is satisfied it Kicks off the Compressor, That is its Job.
2: The Front is Desinged to Cool Just the Front Area.
3: You Have 2 options
1: Close the Rear door when just Using the "Front Unit"
2; If you choose to Leave the "Rear Door" Open, Just make sure the "Rear Unit" is on Making the "Front Unit" Work far less.
You will be fine
Please Rate me, Thanks George
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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