Question about Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

It looks like my the defroster timer is not working properly? The coil inside the refrigerator gets full of ice so the air from the fan doesn?t pass the coil . When I melt the ice and vacuum the water out. The refrigerator start working for a day or two. Then the hole process stats again. How can I ?test? and/or reset the electronic control board? Any subjection?

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First we need to test the defrost system

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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Refrigerator is warm, ice on back of the freezer. What is the problem?


First check to see if the fan is spinning, it could be stuck in the ice. A full manual defrost is required for starters. Move all the food to another cooler. If the covers will come off the freezer easily, check the fan and the defrost coil.
After the defrost, plug it back in and check the fan, and the defrost timer. It should hum. Rotate it to a click, which will be defrost. Check if the defrost coil works. Leave the timer running, it should restart the fridge after a short time. If it doesn't, get a new timer. Keep checking components until you have your fridge fixed. Have fun, fridges are not too difficult to sort out.

Feb 03, 2012 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

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Oct 23, 2011 | Frigidaire PLHT217TA Top Freezer...

1 Answer

The Sanyo SR 366 does not cool until I turn it all the way up and then everything freezes. Any suggestions?


sounds like a defrost issue What can you do about this. so you get an understanding of what is going on here is a short explaination of how the defrost works in the freezer section behind the freezer panel.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold".The fan blows the cold air from the freezer into the fridgerator side. They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode.When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool the defrost cycle is made up of 4 functioning parts the defrost timer, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat and the fan .I will go through what each of these do
The Defrost timer Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type located on the inside upper ceiling of your frigerator works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. Some models dont have a defrost timer and instead use a control board that works just like the timer it is usually located in the rear of the machine under a metal panel.
Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long.
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils. A continuity test can be done ona the defrost heater and when there are only the two wires and there is no connection point to do the test i always like to keep two sewing needles that i use for this test. Simply thread each needle through the half of the wire not all the way though to the other side and you can use them to perform your test to assure that there is continuity in the thermostat if there is not then replace the thermostat
Defrost Heater
Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils,older ones are just a curved piece of metal that wraps under the condensor. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.A continuity test can also be performed to assure that the heater is functioning properly as well. Simply go to each side of the heater and do your continuity test
The Fan
Some dont consider this to be part of the defrost cycle but if the fan is not working then the air is trapped inside the freezer and sometimes can cause the same ice up situation which is why I say to always look at the fan first
you can also do an ohms test between terminal 1 and 3 on your defrost timer which will tell if the motor section of the timer is good then you can check between terminals 1 and 4 to by doing a continiuity test which is to the compressor and tells the compressor how long to run if you turn the timer till you hear the click it goes into position to and you can do a continuity test on the heater between terminals 1 and 2 and then you can do a continuty test on these two terminals as well And here is a guide to how your freezer defrosts and some ways to test each piece to assure that they are working in proper order if you have any further questions message me back in order to see if you do have this defrost type of issue you have to remove the rear panel on the inside of the freezer if there is ice you do and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows for me to help others in similar situations in the future Thanks Rick

Feb 13, 2011 | Sanyo SR-366 Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer iced up on my 55602400


What can you do about this. so you get an understanding of what is going on here is a short explaination of how the defrost works in the freezer section behind the freezer panel.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold".The fan blows the cold air from the freezer into the fridgerator side. They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode.When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool the defrost cycle is made up of 4 functioning parts the defrost timer, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat and the fan .I will go through what each of these do
The Defrost timer Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type located on the inside upper ceiling of your frigerator works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. Some models dont have a defrost timer and instead use a control board that works just like the timer it is usually located in the rear of the machine under a metal panel.
Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long.
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils. A continuity test can be done ona the defrost heater and when there are only the two wires and there is no connection point to do the test i always like to keep two sewing needles that i use for this test. Simply thread each needle through the half of the wire not all the way though to the other side and you can use them to perform your test to assure that there is continuity in the thermostat if there is not then replace the thermostat
Defrost Heater
Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils,older ones are just a curved piece of metal that wraps under the condensor. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.A continuity test can also be performed to assure that the heater is functioning properly as well. Simply go to each side of the heater and do your continuity test
The Fan
Some dont consider this to be part of the defrost cycle but if the fan is not working then the air is trapped inside the freezer and sometimes can cause the same ice up situation which is why I say to always look at the fan first
you can also do an ohms test between terminal 1 and 3 on your defrost timer which will tell if the motor section of the timer is good then you can check between terminals 1 and 4 to by doing a continiuity test which is to the compressor and tells the compressor how long to run if you turn the timer till you hear the click it goes into position to and you can do a continuity test on the heater between terminals 1 and 2 and then you can do a continuty test on these two terminals as well And here is a guide to how your freezer defrosts and some ways to test each piece to assure that they are working in proper order
please remember to rank how this opinion has helped and if you have any further questions message me back Thanks Rick

Feb 11, 2011 | Kenmore 55609 / 55602 / 55604 / 55606 Side...

2 Answers

Freezer side works fine but the fridge side seems to be getting warmer even with temp dial set all the way cold. No warm air flow from bottom. is condenser bad?


you hae an issue with the defrost cycle in behind the panel in the freezer how the defrost system works Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode.When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool the defrost cycle is made up of 4 functioning parts the defrost timer, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat and the fan .I will go through what each of these do
The Defrost timer Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost.So instead of energy hogging heater coming on every 8 hrs it could be different due to how many times you open the doors and how many times the compressor has run some models dont have a defrost timer and instead use a control board that works just like the timer it is usually located in the rear of the machine under a metal panel.
Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long.
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils.
Defrost Heater
This one should be pretty simple. By now if you have read this far you should already know what this does and how important is it. Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.
The Fan
Some dont consider this to be part of the defrost cycle but if the fan is not working then the air is trapped inside the freezer and sometimes can cause the same ice up situation which is why I say to always look at the fan first
Continuity tests can be done to check the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater you can also do an ohms test between terminal 1 and 3 on your defrost timer which will tell if the motor section of the timer is good then you can check between terminals 1 and 4 to by doing a continiuity test which is to the compressor and tells the compressor how long to run if you turn the timer till you hear the click it goes into position to and you can do a continuity test on the heater between terminals 1 and 2 and then you can do a continuty test on these two terminals as well And here is the guide to how your defrost cycle works if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick

Feb 01, 2011 | Jenn-Air Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator is not cooling but frezer side is


What you probably didn't notice was that the freezer has not been going through it's normal defrost cycle. Because of this un-noticed event going on, there has been frost building up on the evaporator coils that doesn't belong there. After this frost continues to build up over the course of a few days to a week or so, now you are going to start to notice the effects.

Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy. there are four parts of the defrost cycle the defrost timer the defrost heater the defrost thermostat and the fan to assure that the thermostat and heater are working properly do a continuity test on both of these and assure that the fan is spining as well 90 percent of the time it is the defrost thermostat these are located behind the panel in your freezer lwhen you take off the panel you should find ice on the condensor in which you will have to deforst either by the hot water method or using a hair dryer lastly you would look at replacing the defrost timer note some units do not have the deforst timer instead it is built into the control board on the rear of the machine if you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows us to keep our rating up in order to help others with the same type of situations Thanks again Rick

Jan 16, 2011 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Build up ice on the evaporator


heres why it builds up ice Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode. When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy.
What components make up the defrost system? Defrost control or timer.refrigerator-defrost-timers.jpg Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs

Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. So instead of the energy hogging heater 240545401adc-board.jpgcoming on every eight hours, it may be 24 hours, 18 hours, 10.5 hours, who knows. It depends on how many times you have opened the doors, how long the compressor has run. This is good because the refrigerator may not need to go into defrost every eight hours. Now you are saving energy.
Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils.
Defrost Heater
This is the last component in the defrost system. This one should be pretty simple. By now if you have read this far you should already know what this does and how important is it. Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.basicly what you have to do is do a continuity test on both the defrost thermostat and the heater with the power unplugged if these are both functioning properly then you would assure that the fan is blowing like its supposed to and lastly you would look at the defrost timer or the rear controlboard in some models note if you do have the timer you wont have the board if you ahve any further questions message me back and please remember to rank this chat when it is concluded Thanks again
Rick

Jan 06, 2011 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

1 Answer

Cleaned the coils but freezer not freezing and inside not getting cold what is wrong


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 03, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Subzero 590: small upper fan inside the refrigerator not working


The fan circulates the cold air accross the evaporator to distribute the cold air around the fridge. It appears that your defrost system isn't working since you have ice buildup. You have a defrost heater and defrost thermostat and timer or motherboard which need to be checked to determine the problem. How to check everything http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Aug 31, 2009 | Sub-Zero 690 Side by Side Refrigerator

5 Answers

No water to ice maker


  • The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.


  • The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.

  • Jun 26, 2008 | Kenmore 5553 / 655532 / 55534 / 55539 Side...

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