The lever that needs to be released in order for the saw angle to be changed has got completely stuck, it will not budge. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a solution? I bought the saw in April and have used it about 3 times. The teeth on the cog that is used to change the angle have also worn down.
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same as the angle of the chain. It is recommended you use your round file that accommodates the size of the tooth of the chain. count the cuts or motions (each tooth should be filed the same amount) if you cut the first tooth three times cut the balance three times. keep the exact angle of the tooth and do not deviate or the chain will not cut as well. if you over file and change the angle for the chain you are filing you may need to have a professional fix it or buy a new chain. the flat file is simply a light stroke to remove misc fragments off the top of the tooth or give it a sharper edge after the round filing is complete. when using a round file it is easiest to purchase a small holder so each stroke is stable and straight. good luck.
The 8mm bolt head, which is below the "stop plate"--- for olack of a better word-- is only to ALLOW ROOM to complete the swivel of the bevel-- ONCE THE CLAMP LEVER IS LOOSENED!! I neither have been able to loosen the CLAMP LEVER!! There is a large philips screwhead inside the handle of the lever, which I tried to loosen without much luck. I am very afraid to force that... ALSO, i tapped on the lever handle itself to see if it would unstick, but with no luck AND DIDNT WANT TO FORCE THAT EITHER!! So here I am online looking for answers again!!
You need to be sitting in the chair and the middle lever is the one which releases and secures the angle. I find the adjustment is easier if you release the backrest lever, the third lever to the rear, lean back in the chair which will raise the front seating cushion while moving the backrest back. Using you feet on the floor push back in the chair until the seat feels better. When it is at an angle you like, push the middle lever down to lock the seat in place. Then adjust the backrest with the third lever.
Few budget tools and especially generic, brand engineered tools imported from the far east are superbly accurate but tend to be "near enough".
You didn't say whether it is a hand operated mitre saw or a power saw.
Most power mitre saws have a number of stops that can be adjusted or filed in order to calibrate the angles and this process should be done when the saw arrives. Once both 45 degree angles have been calibrated accurately the angles in between should fall into place fairly well.
One problem with low cost mitre (chop) saws, even some so-called professional saws is the construction is so light, when pulling down the handle the machine flexes and spoils the cut. This is especially true when the handle is not set exactly in line with the blade or when not paying full attention when making a cut.
Having experienced such saws I have learned much about them so when I visit a tool store I examine their stock by twisting, rocking and pulling the saw heads and the amount of movement in many new saws of popular brands is disgusting, even some pretending to be premium brands. So far only a few of the most expensive types have impressed me.
That doesn't mean the others are unusable and with care fairly accurate cuts can be made when a suitable technique has been developed - like using a rifle with bent sights...
The LS1011 doesn't have a table angle release lever like the newer models so it's harder too swing the table from angle to angle, this also causes the plastic swing body to crack. Have you loosened the locking screw for the table? The table may have to be removed and the pivet shaft greased. I had this problem with an old Makita Table Saw 10" 2600.
Protech is out of business so I could not find a user's guide for you.
The knob on the front that you use to raise and lower the blade also adjusts the angle. Depending on your saw, normally the knob releases from raise/lower mode to angle adjustment by either pulling the knob out and moving it or by pushing a lever to release it and then moving the knob.
Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up. Thanks,
To adjust the bevel, (blade angle), loosen the black lever at the back of the unit, tilt the blade housing using the handle (this may require a fair bit of force) until the arrow on the scale is at 45 degrees then tighten the black lever.
It should move if you unscrew the handle at the base of teh table. There is also a lever on most of these saws, under the handle. Unscrew handle, operate lever to release locking pin and move. That's the theory anyway.