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I have a whirlpool HE frontloader (mod.#GHW9400PWO ser# CSS2519637). I put it on quick wash and Fh shows up in the first 2 min. I ran a diagnostic and C:01 says FH, C:03 says FH, and C:05 won't advance to C:06. At one time the washer kept filling until the window was 1/2 full so I stoped it, put it on drain and there was so much it didn't drain all the water. My husband and I are missionaries in the Dominican Republic and had this washer shipped here in Sept/2006. I've had 3 "repairmen" look and check it out; however, none knows what to do or what part to replace. Would you please help us out.

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  • regina911 Jun 04, 2010

    Thank you FixAllPhill! I had spent hours and hours studying the manual and the washer, with and without helpers. I wish I had known about sooner. You were very quick, to the point and easy to understand when answering. is a relief and a time saver.



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The FH code can mean many different things, I will send you a list of things to check but with all the symptoms you have there is one that stands out as most likely.

This would be the pressure switch tubing. First take the top off of the machine by removing the 3 screws from the top back, then sliding the top back and up.

Looking from the front there will be a round device with wires and a black hose connected to the right side top rail near the back. Check the black hose for a hole or crack, you might have to take it off, put in in water, plug one end and blow through it. If this has a hole you will get the FH and over fill the machine.

I will make a list and send it in a few minutes but this is the most likely suspect.

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

  • 10 more comments 
  • Philip Jun 01, 2010

    Here is a list of things about the F/H.

    There are a few areas to look so if you could help me narrow down by letting me know what you are sure works from this list I can assist with how to check those that do not. Together I think we can fix this for you.

    Let me know if you have questions about any of these.

  • regina911 Jun 01, 2010

    I checked the hose, put it in water and blew in it and it is fine.
    water does go in and out of the unit
    drain pump works well
    I don't know how to test the preasure switch hose
    wire harness connections seem to be Ok. I made sure they were connected snug well to the inlet valves, preasure switch, drain pump, flow meter and the CCU.
    I don't see and leaks in the hoses
    I don't know how to verify if there is siphon problem
    the preasure switch and the flow meter were checked my a repair main and he said they seemed OK
    I ran the diagnostic and the C:01 (flow meter and cold water inlet valve) read FH for the first time today. Before C;01 worked fine and the FH didn't appear until it his C:03 (Hot water inlet valve). when it stops at the C;01 I jump it to the next step C:02 (Dispenser moter and contact) which runs fine. C:04 (Motor and the the MCU) runs fine. The C:05 (Heater and NTC) never stops so I stop it and jump it to the next level C:06. C:05 says that if there is not enough water in the tub the water inlet valve will be witched on to achieve the minimum water volume. I'm think the heater and NTC work because I feel the hot water but since this step has to do with the water inlet valve again I'm thinking the problem has to do with the water valve system again. However I had someone ( I don't know how reliable these repairmen are down here) check it and he said the water intake valve was fine. C:06 (drain pump) does well. the C:07 and C:08 (Motor and MCU) does well to.

    Before I did the diagnostic test the machine would sometimes read FH, F02 and SUD (although there was no soap). I cleaned some small things I found like a ponytail and a small sock. O saw ants crawling out of the preasure switch hose and the computer.


  • Philip Jun 01, 2010

    Hi Regina,

    Thank you for the detailed response.

    The hose you checked was the pressure switch hose, since it does not have a hole in it we will go to the next check.

    The siphon problem would be if the drain line was pulling the water out of the tub as fast as it is filling. Make sure the drain line that the drain hose from the machine connects to is not too low and the hose is not going into that pipe more than a few inches. Since your machine overfilled before I would say this is not the problem.

    If your water valves open on both the hot and cold side during the diagnostic test I would feel comfortable that the inlet is okay even though that seems to be where the failure code happens. You can take the dispenser drawer out and carefully feel the incoming water during the fill to be sure during the diagnosis, but be careful water will spill out and may be hot.

    The 3 codes that you have got at one time or another all have the pressure switch in common. I was leaning toward the flow meter but would suspect either one.

    If you have an ohm meter you can check the flow meter by removing the wires and connecting the ohm meter in place of the wires (it will be hard to get them to stay you may need 2 people), then blow through it and you will see the meter move up and down as the magnet inside the flow meter revolves.

    I will find a test for the pressure switch and send it in a few minutes.


  • Philip Jun 01, 2010

    Hi Regina,

    Here is a drawing of the pressure switch. The terminals on the left of the drawing are the connection points on the main control.

    The contacts 21 to 22 should open and close electrically with pressure and the contacts 11 to 14 should do the same.

    To test, if you were to have the ohm meter on contacts 11 - 14, while pressure was building by filling the tub with water or gently blowing into the switch, you will see the meter change once the pressure is high enough. The opposite change with occur with the contacts 21 - 22

  • regina911 Jun 02, 2010


    We checked out the preassure switch with the ohm meter on contacts 11 and 14, 21 and 22. They check out good.
    We don't know where the flow meter is located.
    There was a bunch of ants that did come out of the black round preassure switch. Each time we
    bump it more come out.

  • Philip Jun 02, 2010

    Good Morning Regina,

    Thank you for the additional information.

    Here is a picture of the top it is looking from the right side of the unit. It shows the flow meter, basically it is between the water inlet valves and the dispenser body.

    Be very careful when working around this, the inlet to the dispenser can break off.

    With the ants in the pressure switch I am thinking they may be the root of our problem. If they are obstructing the air flow from the tub up through the black tubing or inside the pressure switch it may not activate when it should. The contacts are good, as you proved with the meter, but if they are creating an environment where the pressure switch changes at the wrong pressure we could be getting the errors that are there.

  • regina911 Jun 02, 2010


    Thank you for being patient and easy to understand.

    We tested the flowmeter by disconecting it and blowing. You can hear the magnet revolve. We did not connect the ohm meter because blowing air seem to do the trick and we don't know where to put the ohm meter. We did see a chip connected inside the flowmeter that we can take out and put it.


  • Philip Jun 02, 2010

    Hi Regina,

    Since the flow meter seems to be spinning okay I think it is safe to rule that out for now. I think we are pointing back to the pressure switch or pressure switch tubing. Even though it is testing okay I still feel the ants maybe be effecting the way it operates.

    I wish I could be more definitive but this is a tricky one to try and do remote.


    P.S. Do you have the service manual for this? If not do you want a link to it?

  • regina911 Jun 02, 2010


    Thank you! We are going to purchase a pressure switch and hose from
    I would greatly appreciate a link for the service manual for this.

    I'm sold on,


  • Philip Jun 02, 2010

    Hi Regina,

    I think that is the best solution to replace the pressure switch and tubing.

    I am going to send two links, the first is the original job aid for your washer from 2001 and the second is the Maytag version from 2006 (built in the same place). Since your unit falls between these time frames some of the information from the original job aid has changed and will be in the new manual.

    2001 Job Aid

    2006 Job Aid

    Let me know if I can answer any other questions

  • regina911 Jun 02, 2010


    One last questions. Do you think I should be concerned at all with the Centrol Control Unit computer part.


  • Philip Jun 02, 2010

    The main control is always an area of concern.

    Saying that I would consider it a low risk in this situation as it does enter the diagnosis properly and go through the different tests.



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