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Re: upsidedownFE not working thermal error
Thermistor problems are really very rare. One thing to look for is a possible broken wire in the door assembly. Remove the front door panel. Locate the wire harness. About 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the door, look for a broken wire. If no broken wire, look for a kinked wire that may be on the way to being broken. Once all the broken wires are repaired, the unit should work fine. If there is no broken wire, then have the thermistor replaced.
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hot water form the house takes less power to bring up to machine temperature so by hooking it to cold water will increase the power consumption
call a service center and get the explanation for the error codes and that will explain what is faulty
you didn't mention the make and model of the unit and every error code appears different
for example in a fulgor milano machine code 8 is failure of orientation of distributary valve ===causes open circuit or break of distributary valve
for hoover nextra e8 is dishwasher has failed to heat with water in a reasonable time or has failed to detect the water heating element===causes check water heating element/wiring--check wiring to main control module
go google and type in-- dishwashing machine error code 8-- and see if there is any site for your machine to get the error code and causes
other than that get in a service technician for a correct diagnosis and fix
Hello. This an INVOLVED repair. The HE error is a "heater error". The unit has a heating element not unlike an oven, but this element is used to heat the water and maintain hot water temps. Since there is no thermal fuse in the heater circuit, the problem is either an "open" element(an element that has an electrical break), or a loose/disconnected wire(or faulty wiring harness), or a bad main control board. The part number for the board is DE92-02256A. It is located at the bottom front of the washer, beneath the door. You will have to remove the plastic or metal kick panel covering the motors, valves, etc. There is also a cover over the main board and if you are hesitant about troubleshooting ANY of this, please call for a service tech. Depending on where the problem actually is, this can be a tough repair even for experienced techs--especially if the wiring harness should have to be replaced. I hope I helped you!
E11 frequently means that the dishwasher is running without heating. If your hot water is hot, and you don't sanitize your dishes and they are coming clean, you can safely ignore it. It could be a loose wire or the heating element is dead. It is part of an assembly and usually not separately replaceable. If the heat is not running, the error likely comes after a period of time during which the water does not heat. It could also be a faulty sensor, usually part of the same assembly.
If you dishwasher works and is old and still cleaning, it is probably not worth fixing this.
Not sure which model you have but if top drawer in double drawer has no power then it could mean a few things - either the thermal cutoff sensor has blown or the power board at the base of the dishwasher (under bottom drawer has blown). If you are not getting an F2 error on bottom drawer then more likely it is the thermal sensor. Not an easy job to fix as the whole heater assembly has to be replaced. The cutoff is integrated with the heater. The power board is easy to replace provided you have good handyman skills. ALWAYS TAKE OUT MAINS CABLE before working inside the dishwasher.
If light is blinking then it may be an
issue with heater circuit, door switch or the thermal fuse, please reset the power to
the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error.
If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing
this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air
Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub,
energy saver dry or High Temp Wash-Heated Dry-High Temp Wash-Heated Dry.
Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button
and allow it to completely drain and reset. If this doesn't work then it's an
issue with the thermal fuse located on the control or the door switch that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps... Please post
back if you need more information.
You might want to check on the thermostat. It could be allowing the machine to get too hot which would be the reason for the thermal fuses blowing. You do not mention the make of machine, but see your appliance parts supplier and find out from him if the thermostat is adjustable or if you need to replace a fixed temperature one.
Confirming that this is an LG LDF7811 (which happens to be black) ... What you are seeing is a error code "tE" as in thermal error.
(The mentioned drain error would be "OE" as in Outlet (Drain) error.)
First check (with a thermometer) the inlet temperature of the hot water. If it is greater than 140 degrees, turn down your water heater to no less than 120 degrees and retry.
If problems persist, the problem is probably the thermister.
If it is not a failed thermister, then the controller card (PCB) needs to be replaced. Neither are easily changed and I urge you to contact LG service for repair. (See your manual for the number)
Good Luck! and please report back with what worked.
No reset button. Most likely, the thermal fuse went out. This happens if the water inside gets too hot. The thermal fuse is clipped to the electronic board behind the console. The heater thermostat is underneath the tub on the right side. The parts should cost about $25.00 total.
OR: the connection inside the connection box melted itself apart (installation error.) This happens, but not very often. Turn off the breaker. Remove the toe panel and the cover over the terminal box. Physically inspect the connections. You'll know immediately if this is the problem.