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Test results after using a meter on yamaha 250 alternator.

Hi, when tested alternator, the 4 wires coming from the large windings [ similar to the field windings in a electric motor] they should have a ohms resistance of 0.4 but they gave me full deflection of the needle, the other 2 wires coming from the centre winding, showed the same deflection. [the same reading as a continuous circuit] now can you tell me does this mean they are faulty.

Thank you. Kev Meadows

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1999 TTR 250 Wont SPARK...

have you replaced the spark plug it may be stuffed


hope this helps

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

finish line
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SOURCE: I have a side mount starter that has no power to it.

there may be one next to the battery in a little blacksquare pulg on the motor as well there will be two or three look near the starter for little black cylinder (rubber) or little square plugs (plastic )

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

ollie reece
  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 Yamaha FZR 750 short circuit

HI MATE THE CABLES FROM THE ALTERNATOR LEAD INTO A FUSE BOX CHECK TO MAKE SURE THIS FUSE ISNT BLOWN IF IT ISNT GET BACK TO ME

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Verifying a faulty yamaha crux alternator


Hi, Fred first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://fullmanuals.com/search/?q=yamaha+crux+

Sep 04, 2015 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

Is this the coil for my 1971 250 yamaha?? What is the black chip? Will this stop plug from sparking?


without a wiring diagram for you bike we all will just guessing what that is but. it mite be a fuse link. if you are not sure. see if any type of markings, part#######, and go to www.ask.com/ or
www.wiki.org/ or www.infolinks.com/
/what is this device and put the numbers [enter]
it looks like a fuse link, remove any hot wires and test it with ohms meter, if it pegs out or the needle moves, than it okay, if the needle doesnt move than open, or burned out., i would check with the yamaha shop, bap auto part, or foreign auto parts store, or NAPA auto parts store. you see that red round piece is the coil, you have to remove the hot wire and test with ohms meter too.
www.youtube.com/how_to_test_coil/
/how to test fuse link with ohms meter/
/how to test coil under normal use/
/how to adjust points and condenser/

Apr 22, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

The wires that are pluged in the back of the alternator when I put a tester to them nothing comes on what does that mean ? And what can I do to fix it ? .98 ford explore.


Fix What?

What is the vehicle problem in detail ?

When did it start ?

What are you doing & have you tested,how &
the results ?

Nothing to test at the back of alternator, unless
your using an amp clamp & you can do that other
places, for the same results

Have you removed the alternator & had it tested at
parts store ?

Your using a Volt Meter I hope,not a test light
& an amp clamp as well

Nov 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery not charging


Hi, Anonymous in order to check out any main system electrical circuit, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the meter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below Good luck and have a nice day.
The Venturers Yamaha Venture Technical Support Library
http://www.starvmax.com/kunena/13-technical-vmax-discussion/85510-battery-not-charging
http://www.yamahaventure.nl/pdf/servicemanualxvz13tf.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA XVZ1300A Owner Manual

Apr 02, 2014 | Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A Motorcycles

2 Answers

2006 yamaha bruin will not start by push button. Battery is fine, all lights come on but when button is pushed nothing happens


Hi. Depending on your skill level the starting point would be check "ALL" the fuses with a test light/multimeter. Next point would probably be check the starter itself, Again with a test light or multimeter you should have the main positive to the starter - make sure you have good battery voltage and check this whilst attempting to crank. Then the crank feed itself which is the small wire to the starter solenoid, Again check for good voltage whilst attempting to crank. If there is voltage on both then make sure the starter has a good earth by using the starter motor body as the earth whilst testing the main feed at the starter. If you have good main feed and crank the starter has failed. If not you need to post your test results for further help, Jon

Dec 09, 2013 | Yamaha 2006 Bruin 350 Auto 4x4

1 Answer

03 wr 250 is blowing light bulbs


Hi, Dean the following is a comprehensive charging system test that I found on a Rider Groups website 1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
2004 wr250f blowing bulbs
03 WR450 lights blowing
YAMAHA WR250F Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-wr-owners-manuals

Nov 08, 2012 | 2003 Yamaha WR 250 F

1 Answer

How much oil does the 2004 yamaha virago 250 take


Hi Richard, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up a volt meter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace the battery.
5. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
10. With the volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions you can reach me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day.
2004 Yamaha Motorcycle Service Repair Manuals

May 14, 2012 | 2004 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S

1 Answer

Yamaha FJ1200 not charging


Hi, Bradersmi602 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Battery not charging
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Yamaha 1992 FJ1200 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fj-owners-manuals

Jul 20, 2011 | Yamaha FJ 1100 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Battery keeps dying


Take your battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test the battery. Make sure you're using a good quality battery as well. You need at least 250 CCA to start your Sportster. The engine may not be big compared to an automotive engine but it is a high performance engine and harder to start.

If your battery is OK, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check your charging system. The battery must be fully charged to make this test and get the correct results. Connect the DVOM red meter lead to the positive post of your battery. The black meter lead go to the negative lead of your battery. Put your meter in DC Volts, 20 volts or higher range. Start the engine and bring it up to a fast idle. The meter should climb rapidly to between 14.5 and 14.8 volts. If it does, your charging system is fine. If not, proceed to the next test.

To test the alternator output, find the wires coming from your engine case and the alternator in the font. It should be a round looking plug with two wires running into it. If you can't find it this way, find the voltage regulator and follow the two smaller wires until you find the plug. Unplug the plug. You're going to test the voltage on the alternator side of the plug, not the regulator side. Put your DVOM in AC volts, 30 volts or greater scale. Make sure you are in the AC volt range, DC will not work. Now, you'll see two metal pins or sockets in the plug. You are going to put your meter leads into these metal connectors. Since you're measuring AC voltage, it make no difference which meter lead goes to which pin or socket. So, start the engine and bring it to a fast idle. Insert the meter leads and your meter should read at least 30 volts. If not, your stator is bad. If it does but you reald less than 14.5 volts at the battery, your regulator is bad. I hope this helps.

Good luck
Steve

May 14, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

1999 TTR 250 Wont SPARK...


have you replaced the spark plug it may be stuffed


hope this helps

Jun 18, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 250

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