Question about Bernina 1008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Timing for Bernina Virtuosa 153
Timing these machines gets pretty involved such as in just removing the covers. You need a grounding ******** your wrist as the cables all need to be unplugged and you don't want to send a static charge from yourself to the circuit boards. They are expensive. Then you need special sized metal pins to pin several pinning points so the needle, hook, stepping motors and feed dogs all co-ordinate with each other. Also several places need certain guages to set less than .1 millimeter size distances between different places to avoid other problems. You also need several sized torx screwdrivers and the knowledge to adjust the upper and lower tensions. The upper tension alone has at least 3 or four places that need to be in the correct position.
All of the above has to be done in a certain order also.
Its complicated enough. If someone is going to walk you through this over the phone expect it to be complicated. Even if you had a copy of the manual (which could be a copywrite infringment on newer machines) you can expect it to be difficult.
My advice is to leave it to the professionals to have it done right.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
SOURCE: BSR skips stitches
Hi, I am a Bernina tech and can tell you what the problem is. The problem is that the spring on your BSR is weak. Bernina has an upgrade to adding a heavier spring that solves this problem. The older lighter springs on the BSR is shiny. The newer heavier updated spring is dark. Ask your dealer/tech to change this spring to a new one or give you a newer updated BSR. Also be sure they updated the BSR to the latest firmware.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks, this was very helpful!"
SOURCE: How do you oil a bernina 1008??
Probably the most important is the inside of the hook ring. Remove the bobbin case and open the hook retainer by pressing the catch on the left-hand-side. The hook can then be removed by just gripping the shaft on which the bobbin was mounted and removing the complete hook. NEVER OIL BEFORE CLEANING. This is the single biggest problem I come across - continually oiling any kind of machine without first removing the old, contaminated lubricant will attract grime. So ... get yourself a few cotton buds and carefully clean around the inside of the hook ring (the circular aperture where the hook was), paying particular attention to the small groove running round the outside. Rotate the handwheel to bring the hook driver round halfway to allow the whole hook ring to be cleaned. Use the opportunity to remove any clogged lint and grime that may have built-up on the underside of the stitch table. WHen you're satisfied it's all clean, then run a very light bead of oil around the groove in the hook ring, turn the hand-wheel fully to bringthe hook driver back to the left-hand-side and oil the other side of the hook ring. Before replacing the hook, take a good look at the groove that runs around the back side of the hook near the edge and thoroughly clean that too, before smearing a drop of oil around that edge with a finger. Replace the hook, making sure its properly seated in the hook ring and click the black plastic cover back into place before replacing the bobbin case. Your machine should now sound a great deal quieter, if you haven't done this for a while !! Good Luck !
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
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