Washer adds water but will not start the agitator, etc.

Whirlpool Duet, Front Loader. Large capacity, low water usage. Average electricity cost $18 per YEAR!

We see a number of washer problems, and lots with agitators and clutches. They use far too much water.

Could be the belt is streched

I have the exact same problem with my Kenmore 800 top loader, Model # 110.29822800. It is only 1.5 years old. Any suggestions?

Our 2 year old washer just started seeing this problem. After removing the detergent dispenser drawer from the washer, cleaning it and cleaning the slot it came from we stopped seeing water retention.

If the age of your machine is over 10-12 years old, you could have a model that uses a transmission and the trans is leaking. If it is the transmission, it could be about a $150+ part.

Older washer designs used a motor to drive a transmission to agitate and spin the wash tub. As these get older, some develop small holes in the drive shaft (up under the agitator) which lets the trans grease get into the wash water. Our old washer lasted 23 years before the tub started to rust, so we decided it was time to get a new one, rather than put money into such an old machine.

IF your washer is older than 15 years, it might be starting to develop some other issues, such as rusting tub, etc., that could be costly to replace those parts, like the transmission, so you need to determine if
you want to repair or replace the machine.

If you can provide a model number, with all the alphas and digits, including the pre-printed ones on the label or tag, it could be confirmed that your washer uses a transmission and that is the likely source of the grease you're seeing.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Hi, Well try to set the washer on the regular cycle, large load and let it fill. After the washer fills to the selected level, the motor should start and the agitator should start agitating.
If you hear the motor running, but the agitator doesn't move at all, do the following:-
Stop the washer and set the timer on the spin cycle and let it run.
If the washer motor runs and the washer empties the water from the tank, but it won't spin, that is an indication that the motor coupler is not turning the transmission at all.
The motor coupler is made of two pieces of plastic called fingers and a hard rubber piece that goes in between the two fingers. One of the fingers is attached to the motor and the other finger is attached to the transmission. The had rubber round piece goes between the two fingers. When one of the plastic fingers breaks, the motor is no longer coupled to the transmission and the washer will not agitate or spin dry the clothes. The reason that the motor coupler breaks before it should, it is that the user overloads the washer. People stuff the washer with too much clothes, big comforters, small placer rugs, snickers, etc.
Another reason is that the washer is used every day; normally the washer is used 3 times a week. So if you have a washer that is 5 years old and you use it every day, it has the wear and tear of a washer that is 10 years old.
Replacing the motor coupler is not hard to do, once you see how the repair is done. You will save at least $100 by replacing the motor coupler yourself.

Thanks!
mannu_rakesh

Hi,
The problem is a broken motor coupler.
Set the washer on the regular cycle, large load and let it fill. After the washer fills to the selected level, the motor should start and the agitator should start agitating.
If you hear the motor running, but the agitator doesn't move at all, do the following. Stop the washer and set the timer on the spin cycle and let it run.
If the washer motor runs and the washer empties the water from the tank, but it won't spin, that is an indication that the motor coupler is not turning the transmission at all.
The motor coupler is made of two pieces of plastic called fingers and a hard rubber piece that goes in between the two fingers. One of the fingers is attached to the motor and the other finger is attached to the transmission. They had rubber round piece goes between the two fingers. When one of the plastic fingers breaks, the motor is no longer coupled to the transmission and the washer will not agitate or spin dry the clothes. The reason that the motor coupler breaks before it should, it is that the user overloads the washer. People stuff the washer with too much clothes, big comforters, small placer rugs, snickers, etc.
Another reason is that the washer is used every day; normally the washer is used 3 times a week. So if you have a washer that is 5 years old and you use it every day, it has the wear and tear of a washer that is 10 years old.
Replacing the motor coupler is not hard to do, once you see how the repair is done. You will save at least $100 by replacing the motor coupler yourself.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

GE style washer Common problems: - greeseOil on the clothes or floor. In most cases a new transmission will be required. You can rebuild the Trans for oil on the floor, but I find it best just to replace the transmission with a rebuilt one = less problems and faster repair. I have a parts breakdown of the old style transmission here. How to access the washer information.
Change transmission in GE washer-Take transmission out for repairs. - Unplug washer. Remove agitator from washer by pulling straight up on it, some agitators have a bolt under the cap, remove cap and look for a bolt first. Remove the agitator bearing from transmission hub. Get top up by pressing on 2 clips located about 6 in in from side between top and cabinet. Putty knife or flat blade screwdriver works well here. Take the filter flow tube off. Lift top. Remove three bolts holding basket to hub, and use a 12 POINT 1/2" socket to remove the bolts. Lift basket out of washer. Remove the two clamps holding the black boot to the tub and to the transmission. There are six bolts holding the transmission in the washer. Remove the bolts and lift transmission out of the machine.
To replace bottom seal - Turn trans. upside down in a bucket, put in vice, etc. Remove the nut holding the drive pulley on. Take drive pulley off. You can now pry the oil seal out of the trans. bottom and replace. If you wish to put the proper amount of oil in the trans. you will need to remove the bottom cover. Unless you have lost a great deal of oil, I would bypass this. I would estimate the oil loss and put in a lesser amount through the opening where you will be putting the new seal. When replacing the pulley, do not turn the nut holding pulley on. Hold nut stationary and turn pulley in the direction that nut will tighten. This will keep you from separating the hub, torque spring, and drive collar in the transmission. If you see evidence of water in the transmission, my recommendation would be to purchase a rebuilt transmission and repair in that manner. You may wish to do this regardless of the condition of the trans. You will receive a one year warranty with the rebuilt trans. I have a parts breakdown here for the transmission if you need it.
Usually you have to only add a little oil to replace what was lost...not much...really!!
The oil used is a Non-detergent, Gear oil approximately 90 weight. The main pulley seal is WH8X281 and foam nut seal is part # WH2X671.

It is very likely that the transmission needs to be replaced/repaired.

Inside most top loading washer transmissions is a small part that lets the motor drive the transmission in either the agitation mode or the spin mode. When this part shifts back and forth into the position for wash or spin, it can get broken.

When it locks the transmission into the spin position, the motor and transmission can now spin the wash tub to help remove excess water from the clothes. When this lock breaks, the washer will still wash and agitate and the motor will still pump out the water in the washer, but without the fast spinning of the tub, clothes will not be damp dry enough to be put into the dryer. Sometimes the unit will spin a little, but not nearly enough to really remove water from the clothes, especially if you're doing towels and other heavy items, etc.

The part itself isn't much money, but the problem is that the repair isn't easy for even a good DIY'er to perform, as you have to remove the agitator, wash tub, tub seal boot, and the transmission from the cabinet just to get ready for the repair process.

IF you can even get the repair part for the broken transmission (difficult as most manufacturers only let authorized service dealers buy these sub-components these days), it will be VERY messy to disassemble the transmission and remove all the oil and broken metal pieces from the transmission lock part and then completely clean out the inside of the transmission housing replace the gear assembly and put in the new lock piece, plus add back new, clean appliance trans oil and a new end seal on the transmission housing.

When I first started out as a service tech, we used to rebuild the washer transmissions on used customer "trade-ins" when we had nothing else scheduled, so we could resell the used appliances and make a few bucks.

Bottom line is that for all the time, mess and expense you're going to have to go through, it is probably best to buy a new washer. Especially if your washer is more than 10 years old, since the tub is probably starting to get rust spots, etc.

needs a new pressure switch located in control panel are the small rubber hose going from the switch to the tub has a pin hole in it