Started rattling at end of cycle, broken belt?

You need to check and see if the drive belt is broken here is a link to the part and a video on how.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Belt/W10388414/2024684?modelNumber=110.42922200

Hello terilym - From what you have described it sounds like you possibly have foreign objects such as coins or safety pins in the tub or pump. I suggest unplugging the washer and carefully check the tub and to verify that the drum is also not damaged. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in the actual pump. Contact a professional to accurately diagnose and repair the unit.

see the causes:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen puller+ belt broken replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid swithc broker or open,motor coupler broken,belt broken, and clutch worn,drive motor defective,transmision not shifting properly,basket driven worn.
It spins only with the lid closed lid switch prevent the action to start.
see the diagram

If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..

That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.

The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).

There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.

A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).

2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.

If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).

If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.

A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.

Excellent question and description.
Generally a belt with a broken tooth will rattle like a machine gun if defective. Simply lay the had upside down. You can also inspect for hair and thread wrapped around the end of the brush roll. If you remove the belt turn it inside out to roll between your fingers for inspection. Look for signs of fraying or cracking. be sure to check your tension when reinstalling, there should be a bit of slack but not enough to let the belt slip if you were to jam the brush with a hand or old sock

Timing CHAIN tensioner you mean? Better have that noise checked ASAP. It may be a problem with the timing chain.

you could have a loose heat sheald or a broken catilitic converter you should take it to a shop and have it looked at tobe safe

Mine is doing the same thing. I opened it up to see what was happening and it was the drive belt tension arm bumping around. Soon, the belt started slipping during the spin cycle. Now it won't spin and the belt starts to smolder from the friction of the drive motor. If you haven't checked your belt, that's a good place to start.

You may need a new brush roll. The ends should turn easily,