Question about RCA R52WM24 52" HDTV Projection Television
I have an RCA HD52W59YX39 tv with the ITC222A chasis. I had this tv fixed less than a year ago due to a convergence problem.
Let me tell you this is not the same problem everyone else is having with that fuse and the flyback/convergence option not being in menu. I can access convergence and it does work when i do auto convergence, but sometimes i have to do it 2 or 3 times. Sometimes when i do it the tv is fine for a couple weeks sometimes only an hour.
When i had the tv repaired the guy came out took the back off said "yeah you have a bad circuit" he went to his van got a part which he never showed me, soldered it on, put it back together and it was fine. Less than a week later i noticed that the convergence was off a little bit when you looked at something white letters like on a sports scores, there would be a red or green outline.
I called the guy back he said that if its the same problem he fixed he would do it for free if not he would charge another 200 for the service call..well i just let it go, i mean he could easily say that it was something else and nail me for another 200
the problem is steadily getting worse. I can tell you i checked the three fuses everyone says are bad and they are good and the solder on the flyback looks good. This guy that "fixed it " before was only here for 15 minutes and here is what he wrote on the receipt
the numbers 87, 34, 75, 99, 72....
then he wrote: circuit repair in +15v -15 +26v
I have no idea what these mean but i cannot find anything else on these forums that match this. I do not want to pay another 200 and have over 400 into this repair and then have to have it done again in 6 months...HELP ME PLEASE!
There are many possibilities that can caused these kind of symptoms,
Some are caused by Communication error on the Boards inside the unit
Some are caused by a bad component inside in one or two or both
on some of the Boards.
Most often , they check first for possible failure of the fuse .
for the Convergence Circuits.
Although, If ever the center fuse is open ( meaning no resistance )
you may need to RE-solder the Flyback transformer pins.After
replacing the fuse.
Guide for checking continuity:
Continuity check using Analog Multimeter
the process is still the same though the images is not the same as yours,
these are the location of the FL231
you may need to resolder tRCA HD52W59 Convergence problem...not the fuse or - 7a42dc9.jpglso
Might as well include the Vertical Deflection IC / circRCA HD52W59 Convergence problem...not the fuse or - 47bb414.jpgbr />
and here is the image on the board where you will test
You can check on these connectors , too
Have also a check inside for a possible bad capacitor
just for Visual Inspection.( Only if you feel you can ).
Have the unit unplugged when troubleshooting.
There could be other possible causes, but try on those first.
Let me know if you need further assistance, after you started probing
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
The technician replaced 5 capacitors; in circuits: 15 volts positive going,15 volts negative going and, 26 volts. The numbers on the receipt refer to the parts list on the set's schematic. Capacitors can get "tired" Especially if they are old or, have been used before: This should never happen but, unfortunately it does especially in "warranty work" This caused your convergence circuit to "drift" The technician should have used new components to repair your set and, "burned in" the new components to see if a part would cause a variance or, at least he should have called you ;after a few days; To see if the set was really fixed
Please take your set to a good serviceman that will fix it right.
By the way his prices are way to high. The fix should be: 100.00
plus service call charge.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
I have two of these units that I am repairing now. They both had missing convergence menus. After getting that going in the first unit I discovered that the unit would not converge completely. While it did converge in the middle an somewhat on the the left side it was distorted on the right. I suspect and told the customer that he has a bad yoke on the red gun. It is the one which has distortion. If you think about it the only other item in the circuit which could have a problem would be the yoke.
RCA has had this problem before, and although it would be early to be seeing this I believe that this is the problem. I haven't looked up the yoke but I can't imagine that it would be more than $50.00, certainly worth a try.
Let me know how you make out or if you need more help.
Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
OK, well I see similar thing all the time in my shop. Often techs, only "Fix" it, the do not "Repair" it. You see most "Problems" have two parts to them, the "Fault" and the "Cause" now, sometimes they can be one in the same but most often not. To elucidate, say we have a set with no power, upon inspection, a faulty capacitor is found, it is replaced and the set works again. However if we stop at this stage, the problem will simply come back. As we haven't asked ourselves, nor found out WHY that capacitor went faulty?. IF the tech, was trained properly, they would have found a part in the power supply that was allowing too much AC "Ripple" and it was this that caused the capacitor, to fault in the first place. You see, that is "Fault" that must be "Fixed" to effect a "Repair". The other way is simply, "Patching" and in fact, this often causes more damage too.
It is imperative, when getting one's units serviced, these days to ensure you ONLY use a Authorised Service Center, you need to contact a local or head office of the manufacturer or your set, and ask for a referral to an authorised service center. It is just so important, and even worth the cost of even shipping it somewhere. You see at an authorised service center, the engineers only work, on the models they sell, they have spare parts original one, on hand, and they, are all factory trained, and familiar with problems.and will do the job properly, and give a warranty on the work done.
I have included some training manuals too, use these to understand what and how, I use these type of manuals to train the engineers...
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Service manual above link.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
These sets do not have convergence ICs it has convergence board most common problem with them is if you go to menu then setup and do not see convergence on menu then you have a open fuse FL231 they are located on right side of FBT flyback transfomer thier is 3 in a roll small brown rectrangler looking caps but are FUSEs it will be the one in the middle.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks I found it immediately and will change it out today"
do you need the entire screen or just the outside plexi
258513 is the rca part number for the screen assembly. the part that has the black screen. do it get push in? i think union electronics carry them.
Posted on Feb 14, 2008
in customer menu under setup do you have the convergence option. If you do not it probally be that fuse. this fuse is located on the main defection to the right of what know as flyback.. which is a large black component with two large red wires coming from it.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
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