Question about Craftsman 10" Table Saw
I have a Craftsman 10" table saw (not a portable, sort of a hybrid between contractor and cabinet maker's saw) about 5 years old.
Every time I cut piece of hardwood like maple, oak or ?? the wood starts to bind and burn on the blade and becomes difficult to push through as if it is getting pinched between the blade and fence.
I've replaced the blade 3 times (the last two were Freud), re-aligned the fence countless times, bought a new Incra TS-LS table-saw fence (because the Sears fence was a bit rickity), had Sears come out twice while it was under warranty and re-align everything then tell me the saw is fine, but I still have the problem. Any idea what could be going on? Any assistance is really appreciated.
Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%)
Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem.
These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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