- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
NF indicates no water flow. This could mean that the incoming water valves were shut-off, the incoming water flow is low, or that the washer didn't detect the water flow into the washer correctly. If the drain hose is too low, the washer could fill and drain simultaneously. This can also cause the problem.
First if the washer is not getting any water, then check your shut-off valves and the hoses. Disconnect the hoses from the washer and place a bucket under them. Check the flow by turning on each valve for a bit. Clean or replace the filters at the shut-off valves and in the washer. Consider replacing the hoses. Some anti-flood hoses will reduce the water flow if they detect leaks. Make sure that the hoses are not kinked. If the water flow is good at the shut-off valves, then the inlet valve may have failed in the closed position.
If water is filling the washer, then the problem is in the water flow detection system. This could indicate the small reed switch is damaged, the air tube to the reed switch is clogged or that tube has a hole in it. Some washers check for fill by the change in the drum weight. This signal may not be reaching the control unit due to a problem with the sensor or the wiring.
If the washer is filling and draining, pull your drain hose up. It is below the washer fill level. This creates a vacuum that will drain the washer.
The water may be a result of the drain not being able to handle the flow. This can be a result of either the drain hose not being in far enough, a blockage in the drain, or even a slow draining main line in the house. (The above applies if the puddle is from the drain area.)
Hi Andrea - there are two things to check first- empty machine of baskets etc - remove wash arm on the bottom pull upwards - turn handle for the stariner lift the steel mesh - find a plastic contraption with a steel wire running over it - push wire to inside and lift the plastic housing - what you know the drain pump - check there are nothing stuck in the fan like impellar- close door, select drain - switch on - running ok? - assemble.
Secondly there is no water coming into the machine - or very slow - sensors are saying the flow is not good - this will also give the same error.
A bit more tech savvy - off tap - disconnect hose/solenoid - check the filter for dirt etc - if ok put back - make sure you got good H2O pressure. test - if still the same then the flow meter unit is then the problem - Will require someone who knows how to replace this for you.
"LD" stands for "long drain," meaning it took an excessively long time
for water to drain out of the washer. Common causes for this are kinked
drain hose or clothing, like panties or socks, caught in the pump
suction hose. Why, I've even heard of bra wires coming loose and getting stuck
in that hose, collecting all sorts of gookus and pinching off the flow
of water to the pump. Can you imagine? Yea verily, as surely as the
Sacred Suds doth eternally pass my lips, the "LD" error code springs
forth from such anomalies.
There is no flow adjustment on the drain on any washing machine, I had a similar problem on my old washing machine, I discovered the problem was the waste water pipe in my house was clogged with scum from detergent residue, I poured liquid plumber where the washing machine drain hose goes into the waste pipe in the house waited for 1/2 hour, then filled the washing machine with hot water, reinserted the drain hose, and wrapped it up with duct tape to prevent further leaks, and the force of hot water uncloged the pipe, .Problem solved
I have the exact same problem. My husband has been looking for a reducer.
I read on the internet somewhere today, that maytag washers, have their drain hoses attached too low, and the drain hose needs to be raised above the washer. A cup hook, and a shoe string did the trick. It seemed to help on the medium wash load setting, but started overflowing at the end of the large load setting. My floor is ruined because of this.
What I have read about Maytag washers, I think I will just call it quits with this, and buy a Kenmore.
If someone comes up with a reducer, I would love to know about it.
Because the water pump operates as a timed cycle, a partially blocked water passage either from the outer drum to the pump, inside the pump, or from the pump to the house drain is restricting the amount of water being pumped. Remove the drain hose from the house drain just enough that you can watch the water flow during a normal pump cycle. The water should be coming out quite forcefully--if just a trickle, then something is blocking the flow. Look for kinked hoses or even a slow running pump.
ck belt or replaced belt is designed to slip to a point if belt grabs too quickly the tub rpm come up to fast not giving tub time to drain down far enough to prvent climbing over the side also be sure drain hose is not plugged reducing water flow to drain
The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.
#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.
#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.
#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.
#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.
#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.