I can see a small 8 pin Surface mount IC, I think it is an N-FET but I cant look up the number on it for a replacement. the numbers on it are 4606 (maybe date code) and under that is BD5B2R. this thing is tiny so the B might be an 8 and the D might be an 0. The P/S has 4 of these and it has 4 CCFL. One ends in Z. Any idea what they are or where I can look up the number? the manufacturer symbol looks like an A with a circle around it and the right leg of the A goes down through the circle, almost like a 4 with a circle around it. I have been looking for days on the internet for anything that resembles it and found this from TI, UCC3837. Looks just like it. These monitors are the same fron SONY and viewsonic. Thanks for any help.
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No standby power on these sets after a power loss is usually a bad IC at location U203 on the back of the power supply board. It's a Fairchild FAN6755 8-pin surface mount IC... A cheap, easy fix if you have basic soldering skills...
Hello "D" power board is nothing, but its power regulator board itself. I think you are not handy to do the work with power regulator baords. It is dangerous to handle power boards to any TV without proper experience.
I have a PMP5000 that I had to resurect. I had to trace out the power supply to repair it.
I can give you hint: First, a small supply runs directely from the line and generates some of the small voltages. While this starts, the main power caps are charged through limiting resistors. The main switcher is brought online and if the power amps acheive balance, then a relay connects the speakers and shorts the limiting resistors.
This is what is in the 5000 and I suspect the 3000 is similar.
In my 5000, there was arcing at one side of the power amps. The board was burned and three power fets fried. Cancer of burned board had to be carved out and traces replaced by hardwiring.
In addition, the limiting resistors were blown open, both main switching transistors were blown and 4 small driver transistors (surface mounted) and several diodes AND a switching regulator chip (surface mounted).all fried/
Hint: When restarting the unit, put a 150 watt light in series with one of side of the power input to limit the current in case you did not get all the dead bodies out.
This is a class "D" amp which drives PCM waves into a filter which is then the audio output. It is much more efficient thaan a linear amp.
This problem is almost never the actual fan itself failing.. The intermittent whine you hear is the result of the Mos-Fet fan driver chip which is the speed control current amplifier. It's an 8 pin surface mount chip on the bottom of the main (lower) circuit board. This is a common failure with these projectors. The chip is inexpensive and needs to be replaced by someone who is skilled in surface mount component technology. You can replace the fan but you will still have the same problem. Hint, the bad chip is not the one closest to the large fan connector... It's the one closest to the small fan connector and it will measure 45-60 ohm's between pins 7 and 8. the part (rns70d) is discontinued however there is a replacement that can be purchased at...
This is the fix for the Main board repair :
Locate IC 32 small 8 pin surface mount near top of Main Board and remove. Short pin 2 to pin 5. (pin 5 through 8 are together and pin 2 and 4 are together)
You will need a good TV Tech to do this for you.
I have fixed several of these.
The most common fail on the Viewsonic VP211b is a blown fuse on the inverter board. Check fuses F1 and F2. These are Fast Blow 2.0 Amp surface mounted fuses, case style 1208. Available at Newark Electronics, part number 64R8010. They are located on either side of connector CN1.
Ok, your on the right track... Check the main fet or fets that is located right by the caps. Normally if the fet is short, it will pop the fuse, but if your caps poped instead, it could have prevented this. With the set unplugged, you can take a meter set to ohms (lowest setting possible) and if you read a value across any of the 3 pins on the fet (short), then it shot.. If that checks out ok, then take a peek at all the other smaller caps that are on the hot side of the board (the bottom of the board will be labled hot and cold. If one of these was out, it would prevent any of the other voltages from being present. The 5v is a standard test signal, it will normally notify the rest of board to power up when there is a draw on it (kind of like a computer power supply). But I highly recommend replacing all the caps on the hot side of the board and it should fix your problems.
Relays are the first big clue, triggered by the 5 & 12v supply you should be able to trace back using a dmm and see if you have both of those voltages present... The lead coming from the smps to the y-sus board is a good start. On a Vizio I believe the voltages are listed per pin right on the board...
If you had any kind of relay sound then you could suspect the y-sustain or z-sustain board or something else. With the relays being silent I'd strongly suspect the power supply.
check ur mother board power supply check the FET check all the power lines from the smpswith respective of ground with any line short check which component is primerly conected to that line replace it check the FET power IC etc