My dryer is not heating when it tumbles, I have missed placed my manuel. Where can I find a replacement? Model LDG 7304 AAE purchased about 14 years ago. thank you, Patti

sounds like bad timer points, they tend to burn and get stuck on some places ?

A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to how easy it is to get to the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter
or
If power is getting to the tumble dryer and the socket is definitely OK, then the most common problem with tumble dryers not working is when the door micro switch fails, or the catch on the door that operates the switch either breaks or no longer activates the door switch. Check for broken door catches. There is usually a plastic peg on the door that pushes through a hole in the tumble dryer's casing where the door catch is. Closing the door should operate a simple micro switch. If the plastic peg is broken or bent it might not operate the switch properly

Before you purchase any more parts, you should have use of a multi meter. If the dryer is not heating at all, and of the following parts could be bad.......Operating (cycling) thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal fuse, timer, or motor centrifugal switch. All but the motor switch can be easily checked with the dryer UNPLUGGED using the ohms feature of the meter.

can only think your not getting volatge to igniter so need to check that route. gas has to be present and is there a pressure switch for gas? checked your thermostats? safety's? heated cycle?

• There are two house circuits/fuses in an electric dryer's circuit.
  If one of them is tripped/blown, the drum may turn, but the heater will not operate. Reset the circuit breaker or replace the house fuse.
• Outlet wired incorrectly.
  Have a qualified electrician verify that the supply voltage is correct.
• Gas supply valve to a gas dryer is not open.
  Open the gas supply valve. See Installation Instructions for details.
• LP gas supply tank is empty or there has been a utility interruption of natural gas.
  Refill or replace the LP tank. Call your natural gas utility company.
• Dryer does not have enough air supply to support the gas burner.
  The dryer needs space around it for proper ventilation. Do not stack or place laundry or throw rugs against the front or back of the dryer. See Installation Instructions for details about installing a dryer in a closet or alcove.
• Incorrect cycle or temperature has been selected.
  If the Air Fluff cycle or temperature is selected, the dryer will tumble without heat. Each cycle ends with a Cool Down period during which the load tumbles without heat. Check the location of the indicator on the Cycle Selector knob.

Fist thing to check is if the manual reset on the heater box has tripped. That dryer can be serviced from the front. Also, there is a heater upgrade kit that can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts that has several updated parts in it for the top load electric dryers.

There are several things that can cause the reset to pop out. You may have a lint build up behind the shroud where the lint bucket fits.

This is a complicated appliance. You may wish to obtain a service manual for it.

Link to factory service manual:
http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=115&productid=39

Link to heater upgrade kit:

http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=112&productid=32

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail(meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) thatmight need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can tripout or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehaveprograms that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcodeshowing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also bethe fault.



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