Question about Leviton #601-6696-I Ivory Wireless 3WY Switch
A Leviton switch (the back of the switch reads "Cat No 16400, DHC Wall Controller") controls the outdoor lights over the garage. We've lived in the house for 7 years and it stopped working reliably about 3 months ago, ie, the switch would have to be turned on then off then on multiple times to active the outdoor lights, in spite of the fact that a red LED on the front of the switch reliably turns on and off. Now the switch appears to have stopped communicating with the outdoor lights, although the LED still goes on and off. The outdoor lights are stuck turned on. I've opened the junction boxes for the lights in the garage and cannot identify any kind of receiver. Nor can I find any info about how the receiver for the indoor switch is installed. I would love to fix the lights, and it seems like replacing the switch and receiver would do the trick, but I'm at a loss for information. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
50 feet is the maximum range for the switch, per manufacturers spec. Range is diminished somewhat for walls, doors, etc.
IIRC, there is a plug in transceiver available from Leviton, however, if the price of the booster for the main panel is included in the $100 installation, then I'd say that's a fair price. You may try to keep fresh batteries in the switch.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
These switches have an RF operating range of about 50', according to the manufacturer's spec. It is unlikely the neighbors are tripping them. Look around your neighborhood for a ham or CB antenna. That could do it.
Also, these switches run through the AAA batteries pretty fast. You might check them.
50' is not much range for an RF signal. You may take a look at Insteon, which have about a 200' range. Also, they create a "dual mesh" signal by mixing RF with the electrical current in the lines in your house.
Posted on May 29, 2009
You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.
You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
Unfortunately you cannot use two PR180-1LA's for what you want to do. :-( There is only one correct installation:
One PR180-1LA needs to be installed at the switch box which contains the cable that goes to the light (load). That is a must. One then installs a regular 3-way switch at the switch box which contains the cable with the hot from the breaker (line or source).
If you reverse the sensor location you will need 4 wires between the switches, which is not usual practice, as the bare grounding wire is not permitted to carry current per National Electric Code rules.
If you want a sensor at both locations you need to install a IPP15-1L at the switch box that has the cable going to the light (load). One must then install a IPP0R-1L at the switch box that has the cable with hot from the breaker (line or source).
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
I suggest you cut 3 pigtails out of your black wire (about 5-6" each and strip them so you can put a nut to tie them all together on the main wire, then do the same for your grounds using green 5-6" strips of wire and then connect all 3 switches with the pigtails to their proper locations. This WILL fix your problem.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
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