Question about Ford Tractor Grill 2600 3600 4600 5600 6600 7600
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ford escort diesel 1996 1.8
The colour of the oil will depend of the where the leak may be from.
If the oil seems tobe a light brown in colour it would sugest that a brake pipe or rubber hose has failed. The flexible rubber hose is a very common fault on this paticular vehicle as the brake flexi hose is secured on the shock absorber / front hub assembly. The brake fluid level should be checked and if found to be low it would indicate that this is the problem. If this is the case , in some rare circumstances the fluid can cover the brake pads. If this is the case then the front brake pads should be changed and all parts thouroughly cleaned with water as the brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water and water alone will wash of the brake fluid and stop any further corrosion this may cause.
If the driveshaft gaiter has failed the colour of the oil would be a very dark green almost black, but you will only have a small amount of this within the system so it is very unlikely to be this.
If the oil is very dark brown, almost black then this will normally be the front crankshaft oil seal or camshaft seal. Both of these require removal of the cam belt assembly if you have the CVH engine ( if you have a large silver top cover on the engine ) or if you have a slim black cover this is a Valencia engined model which is very easy to work on in replacing the front crankshaft oil seal but does not have a camshaft seal like the CVH engine but it does have a rocker cover gasket like the CVH engine which are very prone to going hard through lack of maintanance as it is made from cork and does go hard with age and then leak oil.
Good luck with car and if any further help is required then just ask.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
ok then here is the procedure
1 take off the axle nut
2 on the lower control arm you will find a large nut and bolt i belive the nut is a 21mm and the bolt side is an 18mm. this bolt is the one at the knuckle near the brakes. remove it
3 you will need to pull the knuckle out of the way or a helper to pull the knuckle out of the way so you can slip the axle out of the knuckle.( its a tight fit but there is room to slip it out.)
4 use a pry bar to pop the axle free of the diff. hosing its held in by a spring clip make sure the clip comes out with the axle if it gets stuck inside you will have to fish it out.
5 use a pry bar or screwdriver to pry seal out of housing then use a flat object that contacts the entire rim of the new seal so it can evenly be installed with out getting smashed and tap it in with a hammer. ( a good trick here is to use some grease and pack it into the new seal where the spring is this will prevent the spring from being shocked out of the seal during instalation . the spring keeps tension on the rubber in the seal so it stays tight to the shaft it is sealing.)
6 then revers the above steps. also make sure you are using the right gear lube it will most likely be 75w-140 but make sure you check your owners manual will tell you if it doesnt say on the diff cover. you can cause a lot of damage if you put in the wrong thing. and make sure you feel the axle spring clip snap into place.
as a note there are two types of axle seals that are used on these so if the new seal looks different than the old seal then the folliowing will be important to you.the seals on these have been redesigned so if you axle has what looks like a cup or dust cover pressed onto the shaft where it goes into the diff the new style does not use this and it will prevent the axle form going in all the way so the spring clip will not lock in and you will have a leak. so you will have to remove it and install the axle without it.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: rear wheel seal leaking
Remember SAFETY FIRST. Jack up the right rear wheel, support the axle with a jack stand, remove the wheel, the brake drum, the banjo cover or differential cover. Allow the gear oil to drain out into you drain pan, carefully and slowly spin the ring gear (watch out not to pinch your fingers) look for a small bolt that is restraining the king pin, remove the bolt and then carefully slide the pin out !(don't spin the axles or ring gear while the pin is out) if you do the bushings and spider gers will move out of their places. After the pin is out then go over to the exposed axle and push it in until it stops. Go back over to the pumpkin and look inside, for a "U" shaped washer it will be on the end of the axle. Remove it from the axle. Now you can remove the axle and replace the wheel seal. Either rent a seal installing tool or carefully use a block of wood and evenly install the seal. If you kink or damage the new seal remove it and try it again. When you put everything back together put a little thread lock on the bolt for the king pin. dont over tighten it, could snap it. Let me know if I can help any more.
Posted on May 27, 2009
SOURCE: rear axle leaking
Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut. if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Testimonial: "many thanks, I didn't know about the flange nut and torque needed. Sleeve I understand, thanks. "
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