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How to adjust hydraulic pressure for a case 580e ? i installed a new pump but i still dont have any pressure .

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Why my clutch cylinder lost its pressure when not in use for 12hours but once i adjust the piston of the clucth cylinder the pressure come back again


Hi this is a common problem with new or old hydraulic systems.If the hydraulic system has no leakages, no rubber reinforced hoses swelling under pressure. It will be correct to replace clutch master and slave cylinder .Do observe the condition of clutch and pressure plate, This seems to be a case of internal pressure loss .

Apr 05, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

91 ford ranger hydraulic clutch,can it be adjusted. Pedal goes to floor wont engage.


hydraulic clutches are designed so you dont need to adjust , i would say you clutch plate (pressure plate) needs replacing

Sep 26, 2014 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Case 580E 4wd 1984 front wheel bearing.


jack up the front of the tractor and place on jack stands. Remove the cover and drive axle . remove the wheel. treat the hub as a heavy truck rear end assembly as it will be the same principle as to positioning of the bearings and adjustment.

Dec 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hyraulic brake pump is bad i need a replacement


Are you sure the hydraulic motor is bad?....as it's usually a problem with a relay and/or the pressure switch.

LEARNING ABOUT THE "TEVES" BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake booster on a late model Mark VII and early Continental is very different from most. It is equipped with something known as a "TEVES" brake system.
The main parts in the system that we will discuss include an ACCUMULATOR, a HYDRAULIC PUMP, a hydraulic pump RELAY, and a PRESSURE SWITCH. These are the key players in this operation.

THE LOCATION OF THESE PARTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR= Underneath the brake assembly (2 pin connector) Hydraulic pump motor
RELAY = On the drivers side strut tower
PRESSURE SWITCH = 5 pin connector facing the # 7 or 8 spark plug(drivers side)
ACCUMULATOR = Round black ball on the drivers side

WHAT THESE ITEMS DO:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR is an electric hydraulic pump used to "boost" pressure for the brake assembly. This pump is $900 new!
hydraulic pump motor RELAY is just what its sounds like. It gives the hydraulic pump motor power to come on.
PRESSURE SWITCH is the "brains" in the system. It senses how much pressure is "on line", and when the system needs more pressure, it tells the relay to "power up" the hydraulic pump motor.
Another one of its jobs is to turn on the RED BRAKE LIGHT, then the ANTI-LOCK lights to alert the driver that the pressure is dangerously low. (The reason the anti-lock light comes on, is because the ABS cannot function if there's a problem with the manual brakes)
ACCUMULATOR stores energy or pressure like a reservoir. Its there so the hydraulic pump motor only has to come on every 3rd or 5th time. Its design is more complicated, but basically the same principle as an air tank on a compressor.

WHAT NORMALLY HAPPENS:
What usually happens is, in time, the accumulator gets weak with age and can't hold the pressure like it was designed too, and therefore, the hydraulic motor comes on every time the brakes are applied....rather than every 3rd or 5th time. This means all these parts are working 3 or 5 times more than they were designed to. This puts an extreme amount of pressure on an already old system.
What we know from this is, the accumulator needs replacing because it's what started all this, but now the pressure switch and relay needs replacement also because it has worked overworked.
NOTE: always replace the relay when replacing the pressure switch. The relay came on every time the pressure switch told it too, so if one is worn out....the others not far behind!
hyraulic-brake-pump-bad-need-replacement-q5d1cnsm5fkb13bp03i0fxgj-5-0.gif

Sep 09, 2012 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

How do you adjust the clutch


The clutch in your Ram is hydraulic and it is not adjustable, it automatically adjusts for wear, so in your case the problem is this, you need anew clutch and pressure plate kit installed.

Jun 12, 2012 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

2000 v w 2.0 starts fine but goes dead immediately


If the engine cranks and fires, then runs for about 1 to 2 seconds, look for a 'Yellow Car' symbol in the cluster.

This indicates the ECU does not recognize the key transponder and denies a engine run command.

If this is not the case you may have a faulty fuel pump. Fuel pumps fail and just give a short pressure rise before they quit allowing the engine to get enough fuel to fire but not run.

Another problem with these is the oil pump. When the engine fires it runs the oil pump and if the dump in the oil pump is faulty, it builds too much oil pressure and forces the valves off the seats and compression goes away and engine stops.

High Oil Pressure ( Over 90 psi.) overpowers the hydraulic valve adjuster elements to the point they pump up holding valve slightly open.

Only cure is a new oil pump. It lives in the oil pan and is easy to service. Average time to change out would be 2 hours, unless you have a Cabrio, in which case lower shield needs removed adding another 30 minutes to an hour to the job.

Feb 17, 2011 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

I have a 1992 Crysler Imperial. The ABS light is on and the ABS pump runs all the time. Help.


Either the ABS Module is bad or the Pump is bad--- Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1989-90 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator. CAUTION
    Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
  2. Remove the fresh air intake ducts.
  3. Disconnect all electrical connectors to the pump motor.
  4. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap the spigot on the reservoir.
  5. Disconnect the shift selection cable bracket from the transaxle and move it aside.
  6. Loosen the nuts on the 2 studs that position the pump/motor to the transaxle differential cover.
  7. Remove the retainer bolts that are used to mount hose bracket and pump/motor. The engine inlet water extension pipe is also held in position by these bolts. NOTE: Do not disturb the inlet water extension pipe, or engine coolant will leak out.
  8. Disconnect the wiring harness retaining clip from the hose bracket.
  9. Lift the pump/motor assembly off of the studs and out of the vehicle.
  10. Remove the heat shield from the pump/motor, if equipped and discard. To install:
  11. Place a new heat shield onto the pump/motor bracket, using fasteners provided.
  12. Install the pump/motor assembly onto the studs.
  13. Install the wiring harness retaining clip onto the hose bracket.
  14. Install the retainer bolts to the hose bracket and pump/motor. Tighten securely.
  15. Tighten the 2 nuts until secure.
  16. Install the shift selection cable bracket onto the transaxle.
  17. Connect the high and low pressure hoses to the hydraulic assembly and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  18. Attach all electrical connectors to the pump/motor.
  19. Install the air ducts.
  20. Readjust the gearshift linkage, if it was disturbed.
  21. Connect the negative battery cable and check the assembly for proper operation.
1991-95 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION
    Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
  2. Depressurize the brake system.
  3. Remove the fresh air intake ducts from the engine.
  4. Remove the clip holding the high pressure line to the battery tray.
  5. Disconnect the electrical connectors running across the engine compartment in the vicinity of the pump/motor high and low pressure hoses. One of these connectors is the one for the pump/motor assembly.
  6. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap or plug the reservoir fitting.
  7. Disconnect the pump/motor electrical connector from the engine mount.
  8. Remove the heat shield bolt from the front of the pump bracket. Remove the heat shield.
  9. Lift the pump/motor assembly from the bracket and out of the vehicle. Fig. 1: The pump/motor assembly mounts to the top of the transaxle case and is covered by a heat shield 86729g75.gif
    To install:
  10. Fit the pump motor assembly onto the bracket; install the heat shield and its retaining bolt.
  11. Install the pump/motor electrical connector to the engine mount.
  12. Connect the high and low pressure hose to the hydraulic assembly. Tighten the high pressure line to 145 inch lbs. (16 Nm). Tighten the hose clamp on the low pressure hose to 10 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
  13. Connect the electrical connectors which were removed for access.
  14. Install the high pressure line retaining clip to the battery tray if it was removed.
  15. Install the fresh air intake ducts.
  16. Bleed the brake system.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1991 Chrysler Imperial

2 Answers

How do I adjust a clutch on my 1996 Sunfire, or is it hydraulic?


ITS HYDRAULIC, BUT YOU CAN ADJUST IT ON THE PEDAL, NECK BREAKER

Jul 25, 2010 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

We put a new pump on our 7000. The hydraulics are


It looks if there is a pressure relief valve on the pump as I can see on the picture? If your problem isn't solved yet, please give me the pump manufacturer and type or the hydraulic scheme.
Kind regards Marcel van ****

Dec 03, 2009 | RTO Allis Chalmers 7000 Tractor Hydraulic...

1 Answer

Oil Dipstick


READ THIS THIS IS A LIST OF THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM



ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
· Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, SSA on, transmission range (TR) sensor
· Run On-Board Diagnostics tests. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual for diagnosis.

HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
External Shift Linkage
· Damaged, out of adjustment
· Inspect and repair as necessary. Verify linkage adjustment. After repairing linkage, verify that the transmission range (TR) sensor is correctly adjusted.

Incorrect Pressures
· Low line pressure
· Check pressure at line pressure tap. Carry out Line Pressure and Stall Speed Tests. Refer to Special Testing Procedures in this section. If pressure is low, check the following possible components: main control, pump assembly, reverse clutch assembly, low/reverse clutch assembly.

Main Controls
· Bolts out of torque specification
· Adjust bolts to specification.

· Gasket damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· 1-2 shift valve, SSA, main regulator valve, low/reverse modulator valve, low/reverse accumulator piston, pressure tap plate damaged, missing, stuck, misassembled
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Separator plates damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Hydraulic passages damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Pump Assembly
· Bolts out of torque specification
· Adjust bolts to specification.

· Gasket damaged
· Inspect for damage. Install new as necessary.

· Porosity/cross leaks/ball plug missing or leaking, plugged hole
· Install a new pump assembly.

· Pump support seal rings, No. 6 or No. 7, damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Reverse Clutch Assembly
· Carry out Air Pressure Test.

· Seals, piston damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Ball check valve damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Friction elements worn, severely damaged or misassembled
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Piston return spring damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Reverse clutch hub to forward/coast/direct hub splines damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Low/Reverse Clutch Assembly
· Carry out Air Pressure Test.

· Seals or piston damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Friction elements worn or severely damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Piston return spring damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Wave springs missing
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

· Piston bore damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Forward/Coast/Direct Clutch Cylinder
· Reverse seal rings damaged, missing, misassembled
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Case
· Reverse to low/reverse clutch feeds have severe cross- leakage or porosity
· Carry out Air Pressure Test.

· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Reverse/Overdrive Gear Set
· Damaged
· Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

With all that said, you need to have it taken to either the Ford dealer or transmission shop to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem. Either way, it's likely that the transaxle is going to require removal and disassembly to repair, if the TR sensor isn't the cause. You may print this answer and bring it into the servicing tech, in order to expedidite the diagnosis process. Hope this helps.

Apr 23, 2009 | 1988 Ford Crown Victoria

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