Question about Kodak EasyShare C513 Digital Camera
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Maybe you could try the kodak c513 manual site-www.kodak.com/go/c513support this is if you dont have the manual for the camera hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 29, 2007
SOURCE: Tricks to opening Kodak C513
Affraid that offer was for the DX6490, Ive never had a C513 (plenty of C3xx and C6xx though) on the bench. But, most of the C series are fairly straight forward.
This is generic C series info, yours will differ, there may be speakers in the way mic wires etc so proceed with caution and keep a lookout
read all of this before starting
first you need to take static precautions, using a metal strapped watch or something metal around your wrist connect yourself to earth, a good place is your computer case (it dose'nt need to be on, just plugged in), loosen a screw and wrap a piece of wire round it then the other around your wrist.
undo all the screws in the camera (the 6490 is the only one Ive found so far with hidden screws so shouldn't be a problem there).
The front and rear casings should now un clip and leave you with the chassis if the front case wont come away, look for a screw down a hole, often behind the LCD (on other kodaks not usually c series).
Keep an eye on the bars and springs retaining the battery and memory card door they tend to spring off and get lost, also note how they are positioned
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE, Before starting leave the camera a couple of days with no batteries in (or follow the discharging instructions). Once open locate the flash capacitor (big black tube with 2 wires) and take a voltage reading, if its still high (50v or higher) put it down and come back to it tomorrow or using INSULATED clips connect a 20k ohm 1 watt resistor across it for a while that will pull it down.
If your in too much of a rush that cap will bite and hard, 350v (10,000v if you touch the transformer) when the flash is freshly charged and if it bites its likely to fry the camera too, as well as that your guaranteed to drop it.
Ok so now the camera is safe to work on, if you haven't already remove the LCD, then remove all the screws retaining the main board. Most C series cameras have several ribbon cables and the battery posts are soldered through the main board, you need to un-clip all the cables and de-solder the battery connections, also loosen the switch board (on top) as there is usually a connector hidden that will just pull apart but it needs a bit of movement.
Now the ccd (image sensor) some are on a ribbon cable (but you will be able to see that) some are mounted on the back of the board. some will come away ok with the board others have a pair of extra screws through holes in the board, if the board is being reluctant (but be carefull) at the lens end have a closer look for screws through holes in the board near the lens. Pull the board away carefully as the IR filter will either stick to the ccd and may drop off or it will stay in the hole in the back of the lens, there should be a little square rubber gadget, again don't loose it and for goodness sake don't touch the class filter or the ccd a fingerprint will ditch it.
if the ccd is on the main board put the board in a clean plastic bag and put a little piece of tape over the hole in the back of the lens, especially if the filter is still in there as you may need it later and you want to keep it clean
If it is the ribbon cable type, you should now have the board off and be able to get to the 2 or 3 screws that hold the main lens assembly in place, remove them and carefully jiggle the lens free, keep an eye out for the ribbon cables their very easy to damage.
fit the new lens assembly and screw it in place.
get a clear plastic (to prevent dust contaminating the lens and sensor) bag big enough to get the camera and your hands in and put the camera chassis and the old lens in it, (if ccd is on a ribon) unscrew the screws holding the ccd in place and swap them over
remembering that there should be a rubber gasket on the ccd then the infra red filter in the hole the ccd goes in
You can skip the ccd swap if you like but I cant guarantee that the colour and contrast will be the same as it was, Ive not had a problem when swapping them but strictly the camera should be calibrated for the new ccd and you wont have the equipment or software to do that. I always keep the same ccd with its main board where possible.
now its a reverse operation to put it back together, don't forget to re-solder the battery contacts.
Best of luck
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
Yes you are. My wife denied that she dropped in the sand but I found a list of photos that she wanted to print on a post-it paper in the cover and it had sand all over the sticky part. Used the pressure air spray to clean the rings and it is back to life. Well It worked but there was some problem during zoom in&out, so I spray the rings while zooming and out and that cleaned it. I hope I don't have to open it to clean the mechanism. Thank you.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
You can get the drivers here.
Good luck and please rate
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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